do aftermarket antannaes work for increasing signal?

Golf1.6

Golf1.6

Golf1.6

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I have a tp link TD-W8960N - not amazing, but is reliable and handles wifi devices for most of the house. Just struggles going through two interior walls.

Was wondering if an addon antanea would be worth a punt like the

TP-LINK TL-ANT2405CL or TP-Link TL-ANT2409A
 
The router comes with 2x 5dBi antenna - the same as the TL-ANT2405CL so you'll see no benefit. However, the TL-ANT2409A is a 9dBi antenna and would give more than double the signal (3dB more is double, you would get 4dB) however it's a panel antenna so is directional, so again probably not much use.

You can find 9dB omni directional antenna with RP-SMA connectors if you look around
 
PistolPete said:
The router comes with 2x 5dBi antenna - the same as the TL-ANT2405CL so you'll see no benefit. However, the TL-ANT2409A is a 9dBi antenna and would give more than double the signal (3dB more is double, you would get 4dB) however it's a panel antenna so is directional, so again probably not much use.

You can find 9dB omni directional antenna with RP-SMA connectors if you look around
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Yes I did read the directional bit but didnb't pay much attention to it. I would have thought that a stick shape one would be a directional and the pan shaped one would be omni.

I have the router in the ground floor. House is a narrow terrace - perhaps a directional one pointing upstairs would provide a good signal to top floor.

Just out of couriosity do you know of these stick antennae both do the same job or is each one purpose built for each connection type like wireless n only. wireless b/g only etc.
 
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tom_e said:
You may also need a better antenna on the receiving end to see any real benefit.
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i think you're right.

Without exaggeration I've spent the last 4 hours setting up a functional wifi connection.

Enabling all modes (b/g/n) is not good enough because a computer with poor n capability will try to connect through n even though it should use b.

Similarly letting the network choose whether to use TKIP (sic) or AES is not good enough. You have to select one at the router end so that a computer that cannot handle AES propely does not attempt to use it.

Just been running around the house testing all the computers In the end I opted to strictly select wireless b, AES on WPA1.

Not all the devices are working fine - althought the newer gadgets can't use the faster wireless n.
 
Wireless b!

802.11b is a really slow (11 Mbit/s) standard from the turn of the century. You shouldn't be going anyway near it.

802.11g is as far back as you'd ever want to go, and then only if you really have to.
 
bremen1874 said:
Wireless b!

802.11b is a really slow (11 Mbit/s) standard from the turn of the century. You shouldn't be going anyway near it.

802.11g is as far back as you'd ever want to go, and then only if you really have to.
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Well, better go b than g. Unfortunately have to use b in order to ensure compatibility with the old laptops and desktops.

Setting the router to use b&n doesn't work. The old laptops try to use n and then just hang. wifi connects but there's no internet.
 
You must have some really old kit (10+ years old) if it only supports 802.11b.

If you have to support them then you'd be better off with an additional dedicated access point just for 802.11b.

With 802.11b you'd be lucky to see 5 Mbps sat next to the router, and that bandwidth is shared between all of the connected devices.
 
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As above, if you really need b compatibility then get yourself a dual-radio router or use a separate WAP. I couldn't imagine trying to use b at home any more, its so slow!
 
I think it's probably down to the router rather than the devices.

I have some old equipment like a desktop computer with a very old wireless adapter. Samsung ul30a which is supposed to be wireless n capable (but seems to not work in wireless n mode).

As well as iPads, galaxy s3 and s4. - these too struggle in wireless n mode. So I think the problem lies with the router.
 
Guys I just realised how completely random wifi setups are and how there a certain element of luck involved. All the stuff I wrote above is invalid.

I decided to change over an Ethernet cable from a cheap one to a respectable one from a high street retailer. In the process of installation I had to switch the router off and turn it back on. I also had to turn my switch of and on again. Miraculously my wifi has just shoot through the roof. It's working great all throughout the house. Absolutely insane.

Now, I've rebooted and shut down the router plenty of times before. In fact I've rebooted it every time after changing wifi settings as recommended by the router page. But It was the first time I've unplugged and re-inserted the switch. It's likely that the switch was causing some issues with the router. Really strange, but it's fixed.. :S

It's a tp link with apparantly a broadcom chip. its fine when it works but hell when it doesnt because seemingly inconsequential stuff can put it into disarray.

getting this on my laptop right now, used to get 5 & 5 up and down when sat 6 ft away from router. Now this is achieved through 2 walls

3307018333.png
 
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Just to reiterate, unless your clients have their antennas upgraded as well, its not going to make any difference in real world scenarios. No value in shouting down a megaphone if the person you are communicating with is mute.
 
Phreaky said:
Just to reiterate, unless your clients have their antennas upgraded as well, its not going to make any difference in real world scenarios. No value in shouting down a megaphone if the person you are communicating with is mute.
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This is not true at all.

Increasing the an antennas gain at one end is perfectly valid way of increasing overall range. By increasing the EIRP on one end, a client with the same gain antenna will receive the same effective signal from further away. As the antenna also has a increase on RX gain, the same un-upgraded client can be heard from further away.
 
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