Do these lenses overlap?

kona786 · 22 Jan 2013 at 13:25

Nikon AF-S DX 35mm f/1.8G

Nikon AF-S DX Micro 40mm f/2.8G

I bought a Nikon D5100 a couple months back with the 18-55mm lense kit and decided to buy the 35mm Prime too.

My wife has decided to buy me the Micro lense after some advice from a work colleague as a surprise present. Colleague didn't know I already had the Prime.

Now I wouldn't have bought the Micro myself but I like the idea of Macro shooting so my question is:

Is this new Macro lense worth the £190 when I already have the 35mm prime?

What are the advantages?

I just don't want to unbox and use it and find out its not worth it, then put it all back to return it.

Raymond Lin · 22 Jan 2013 at 13:34

It is rather close but it is a macro.

It is not so much with the over lapping of focal range rather than the purpose of the lens.

Keep it if you think you will do some macro, sell it if you don't. I would however give it a go, you might like it.

kona786 · 22 Jan 2013 at 14:56

I see. Could you post a few picture examples of what could be done with the Micro lens that my Prime couldn't?

Is it just a case of getting a much more close up picture than I could with the prime?

ShakenNstirred · 22 Jan 2013 at 16:49

The only problem with the 40mm macro is you need to be very close to what you're taking a picture of, so if it's bugs you can scare them off (was the reason I didn't buy the 40mm) . A better lens would be a 90mm,

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theheyes · 22 Jan 2013 at 16:57

It pretty much is just a case of getting closer, but that's a big deal.

Columbo · 23 Jan 2013 at 13:39

I have a similar set-up but I have a 35mm f1.8 & Sigma 50mm f2.8 Macro

This is taken at the 35mm minimum focus distance at f1.8

This is taken at the 50mm minimum focus distance at f2.8 & 1:1 Macro.

As you can see they have very different uses and shouldn't cross over provided you actually do venture into both styles.

kona786 · 23 Jan 2013 at 18:57

Aah thank you very much ManCuBuS for the great examples.

minimum focus distance (mfd)? This is the minimum distance that you have to stand from the subject in order to properly focus on it right?

what happens when you get closer - it just doesn't focus/auto focus?

Could you also give the mfd of both those lenses in mm (just a rough ball park figure) please. Thanks

If you tried to take the 2nd pic with your 35mm - would it just be a blurry mess?

Sorry for the noob questions.

ShakenNstirred said:
The only problem with the 40mm macro is you need to be very close to what you're taking a picture of, so if it's bugs you can scare them off (was the reason I didn't buy the 40mm) . A better lens would be a 90mm,

105mm is like £600 :eek:

D.P. · 23 Jan 2013 at 19:22

kona786 said:
Aah thank you very much ManCuBuS for the great examples.

minimum focus distance (mfd)? This is the minimum distance that you have to stand from the subject in order to properly focus on it right?

what happens when you get closer - it just doesn't focus/auto focus?

Could you also give the mfd of both those lenses in mm (just a rough ball park figure) please. Thanks

If you tried to take the 2nd pic with your 35mm - would it just be a blurry mess?

Sorry for the noob questions.

105mm is like £600

MFD is the closest distance to what the lens is physically capable of focusing at. Getting closer to the subject will just give a blurry mess. What makes a macro lens a macro lens is that the MFD is shorter so you can get closer, close enough such that a 1cm object in the real world takes up 1cm on the sensor (1:1 ratio). You can then calculate how much of the frame that fills.

All true macro lenses will get you the same reproduction ratio of 1:1, but a macro with a longer focal length will achieve that at a longer distance, allowing you to be further away form the subject. In the case of insects that is very important because being too close will scare them. And that is why you might not find the 40mm Macro that useful, depending on what you want to photograph. Great for static objects though.

Columbo · 23 Jan 2013 at 19:37

kona786 said:
Aah thank you very much ManCuBuS for the great examples.

minimum focus distance (mfd)? This is the minimum distance that you have to stand from the subject in order to properly focus on it right?

what happens when you get closer - it just doesn't focus/auto focus?

Could you also give the mfd of both those lenses in mm (just a rough ball park figure) please. Thanks

If you tried to take the 2nd pic with your 35mm - would it just be a blurry mess?

Sorry for the noob questions.

No need to apologise dude, whats this forum here for if we can't seek a some knowledge and I'm a noob as well compared to some of the other guys on here

Yes MFD is the closest you can get to the subject and still achieve focus. If using Auto Focus then if you are closer than the MFD then the lens will just hunt and won't confirm.

MFD of the 35mm is 0.3m
MFD of the 50mm is 0.189m, however the front of the lens is actually a lot closer than this because of how the front element extends to achieve magnification.

kona786 · 23 Jan 2013 at 20:31

D.P. said:
snip.

Thanks - I won't really be shooting wildlife so this lense should suit me ok.

ManCuBuS said:
No need to apologise dude, whats this forum here for if we can't seek a some knowledge and I'm a noob as well compared to some of the other guys on here

Yes MFD is the closest you can get to the subject and still achieve focus. If using Auto Focus then if you are closer than the MFD then the lens will just hunt and won't confirm.

MFD of the 35mm is 0.3m
MFD of the 50mm is 0.189m, however the front of the lens is actually a lot closer than this because of how the front element extends to achieve magnification.

thanks again.

how did you calculate the MFD's?

Ksanti · 23 Jan 2013 at 20:38

You don't calculate them, they're generally given as advertised specifications by the manufacturers, in all but a very select few cases.

Columbo · 23 Jan 2013 at 21:00

kona786 said:
how did you calculate the MFD's?

Its not really hard to work out yourself anyway. Just get close to a subject and try to focus.

Then if it fails move back a little and try again, rinse, repeat until you here a beep. Then just measure the distance between the two.

kona786 · 23 Jan 2013 at 21:18

There was me thinking there was a formula. Thanks for all your help guys, esp for the pics ManCuBuS. I'm going to keep the Macro. Yay!

Columbo · 24 Jan 2013 at 09:23

kona786 said:
There was me thinking there was a formula. Thanks for all your help guys, esp for the pics ManCuBuS. I'm going to keep the Macro. Yay!

Hehe no formula's, just trial and error (mostly error!). I'd say keep the macro as well and get used to by shooting some static objects.

The first barrier you will hit is the amount of light hitting the subject so once you've hit that barrier, we'll be here to help again fella