Doing my first custom loop today.

r7slayer

r7slayer

r7slayer

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Hey guys :)

At some point today i will bet getting a EK P360 Performance Watercooling Kit and it will be the first time ive properly done a custom loop. Now ive done some quick research and everyone seems to suggest to flush/clean the radiators before first use.

Now i'm not sure how to go about this?! Use my hot water tap and flush it quite a few times until i see hardly any or no more debris or dirt come out, then do a quick couple flushes with distilled water?

That's what i'm thinking of doing and not sure if that's okay. Also do i need to add vinegar to the distilled water when i flush after using the hot water? To make sure i kill any bacteria and algae? Also does it have to be white vinegar or can it be the same sorta chip shop vinegar stuff?

Iv'e looked at the sticky "Custom Loop Guide" and will be following that as well as EK's guide.
 
I would just flush with warm water.

EK stuff should be pretty clean from the factory.

Bacteria will always get into your water.
Additive should stop them from growing.
Its just any rogue particles and dust you need to remove.

Take your time.
Do a leak test with the pc off.
Take a picture and show off when your done :)
Have fun.
 
String said:
Yes, that.

Also, make sure you design a drain point into your loop.
Click to expand...

Ahh thanks :)

I've thought about that and was thinking of just using a bowl and then putting either the rad (Mean RES lol) over the bowl or cpu block when detaching a hose to drain. So its away from any components. I;ll probably invest in a drain port when it comes to that time when i need to clean my loop 6-12 months ish time? Unless you think its a good idea to have it from the start?

Edit -
In brackets
 
Holst1981 said:
I would just flush with warm water.

EK stuff should be pretty clean from the factory.

Bacteria will always get into your water.
Additive should stop them from growing.
Its just any rogue particles and dust you need to remove.

Take your time.
Do a leak test with the pc off.
Take a picture and show off when your done :)
Have fun.
Click to expand...

Thank you :) I'll make sure to take pics too! ;)
 
r7slayer said:
Ahh thanks :)

I've thought about that and was thinking of just using a bowl and then putting either the rad over the bowl or cpu block when detaching a hose to drain. So its away from any components. I;ll probably invest in a drain port when it comes to that time when i need to clean my loop 6-12 months ish time? Unless you think its a good idea to have it from the start?
Click to expand...

Well worth fitting a drain in the beginning.
Being able to drain and refill without removing any components is very handy, even in a simple loop.
 
r7slayer said:
Ahh thanks :)

I've thought about that and was thinking of just using a bowl and then putting either the rad (Mean RES lol) over the bowl or cpu block when detaching a hose to drain. So its away from any components. I;ll probably invest in a drain port when it comes to that time when i need to clean my loop 6-12 months ish time? Unless you think its a good idea to have it from the start?

Edit -
In brackets
Click to expand...

Design one now would be my advice. Detaching a hose from a full loop can result in water spluttering all over the place.

Also, you may have to drain straight away if you have any leaks.
 
String said:
Design one now would be my advice. Detaching a hose from a full loop can result in water spluttering all over the place.

Also, you may have to drain straight away if you have any leaks.
Click to expand...

Good advice :) i'm thinking a Y splitter at the "out" end of the res connected to valve?
 
r7slayer said:
Good advice :) i'm thinking a Y splitter at the "out" end of the res connected to valve?
Click to expand...

Possibly. Post up some photos if you can.

I like to add the drain straight after the pump because it helps prime the pump on initial fill. You may find that the res fills with water and that's it, because the air can't be shifted... Simply open the drain and let the water flow through the pump to drain and close again. Now the water is ready to be pushed by the pump.

Edit: here's my current drain, Tee fitting on pump outlet.


f0IXnpT.jpg



2nd Edit: Here's the entire loop if it helps with ideas.


2qglyQb.jpg
 
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r7slayer said:
I've thought about that and was thinking of just using a bowl and then putting either the rad (Mean RES lol) over the bowl or cpu block when detaching a hose to drain. So its away from any components. I;ll probably invest in a drain port when it comes to that time when i need to clean my loop 6-12 months ish time? Unless you think its a good idea to have it from the start?
Click to expand...


You can't fit a drain valve AFTER lol... the whole point is to do before you fill your loop so that you can drain it easily. You will want it at the lowest point in the loop.

As for your rads, I've always found a 30/70 mix of vinegar/water (clear, cheap Tescos stuff is fine), put in the microwave for a minute or so to heat up, is very effective at removing rad debris. You will want to plug the rad, give it a thorough and vigorous shake, then pour in to a clear bowl so you can actually see what's coming out. It's very rare for a rad not to need quite a few rounds of this before it's fully clear, but some people just give it a casual shake and don't actually dislodge the debris that's in there. Worth doing properly.
 
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Legend said:
You can't fit a drain valve AFTER lol... the whole point is to do before you fill your loop so that you can drain it easily. You will want it at the lowest point in the loop.

As for your rads, I've always found a 30/70 mix of vinegar/water (clear, cheap Tescos stuff is fine), put in the microwave for a minute or so to heat up, is very effective at removing rad debris. You will want to plug the rad, give it a thorough and vigorous shake, then pour in to a clear bowl so you can actually see what's coming out. It's very rare for a rad not to need quite a few rounds of this before it's fully clear, but some people just give it a casual shake and don't actually dislodge the debris that's in there. Worth doing properly.
Click to expand...

I was going to fit it after i drained it for the first time because i don't currently own one. :( Anyways i thought instead of waiting around ill just buy one when i drain it for the first time and then attach a drain port before i fill it back up with clean fluid. The res will be the lowest point in my loop. Turns out the EK rads are pre cleaned and even still ive cleaned my rad and found absolutely nothing came out. Water was clear first time. Flushed it 7 times with hot water. 5 times with tap hot water then twice with boiled water then flushed it a further 3 times with distilled water.

i'm waiting on a few parts for now but will flush my rad with more distilled water when i'm ready to put everything together.

Also i'm thinking of putting a silver kill coil in the res for good measure. Anyone else usually do this?
 
So far made sure everything fits and planned where everything is going.
Rad is flushed
PC is prepped

Just waiting on some parts which was supposed to come today but have not. :( paid for Sunday delivery too so not happy bunny.
 
r7slayer said:
I was going to fit it after i drained it for the first time because i don't currently own one. :( Anyways i thought instead of waiting around ill just buy one when i drain it for the first time and then attach a drain port before i fill it back up with clean fluid. The res will be the lowest point in my loop. Turns out the EK rads are pre cleaned and even still ive cleaned my rad and found absolutely nothing came out. Water was clear first time. Flushed it 7 times with hot water. 5 times with tap hot water then twice with boiled water then flushed it a further 3 times with distilled water.

i'm waiting on a few parts for now but will flush my rad with more distilled water when i'm ready to put everything together.

Also i'm thinking of putting a silver kill coil in the res for good measure. Anyone else usually do this?
Click to expand...


OK but draining may not be so easy without a drain valve... depends how you've set it up.

Good that EK are pre-cleaning properly then, most manufacturers don't, or the ones that say they do don't really know what that means lol!
 
I could attach a drain port to the top of my res when i'm ready to bleed? Then all i need to do is pull my res and tip in on its side into a bowl. I can remember seeing some one do that in a video. Yea i'm really impressed with the quality of the rad from EK. Yea it seems to be the norm that you need to flush your radiator. I could have got away with not flushing with this EK rad but it's better safe than sorry haha.
 
r7slayer said:
I could attach a drain port to the top of my res when i'm ready to bleed? Then all i need to do is pull my res and tip in on its side into a bowl. I can remember seeing some one do that in a video. Yea i'm really impressed with the quality of the rad from EK. Yea it seems to be the norm that you need to flush your radiator. I could have got away with not flushing with this EK rad but it's better safe than sorry haha.
Click to expand...

Your open res will be the source of air intake which will allow the water to exit from the drain. You need both.

I've changed the mounting plate on a CPU block without draining my system before. Believe it or not, I had the AMD plate on instead of Intel so I held the block over a pot and opened up, expecting water, but nothing came out because my res was sealed so no air could get in. The water just sat in the block.
 
Hi r7slayer,
Built my first loop the other day and i tried to incorporate a y-split into my loop. The ek one is 1 male (trunk) and 2 female (prongs) and so i wound up having to discard the idea. I didnt have enough male-male extenders to use it, and doing do made thewhole set up 3 times larger than planned and obstructed my case! I would suggest instead you get a T block and place it directly into the input point for your lowest rad by means of a male-male adapter, and have the drain tube out on the 90 degree point of the T block by barb/compression fitting, controlled by a ball-valve from that. In this way your normal loop continues uninhibited through the T block and any water above your lowest radiator will exit via the drain tube if you open it.

At least, that's what i'm going to do later this week ;)
 
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Jediben said:
Hi r7slayer,
Built my first loop the other day and i tried to incorporate a y-split into my loop. The ek one is 1 male (trunk) and 2 female (prongs) and so i wound up having to discard the idea. I didnt have enough male-male extenders to use it, and doing do made thewhole set up 3 times larger than planned and obstructed my case! I would suggest instead you get a T block and place it directly into the input point for your lowest rad by means of a male-male adapter, and have the drain tube out on the 90 degree point of the T block by barb/compression fitting, controlled by a ball-valve from that. In this way your normal loop continues uninhibited through the T block and any water above your lowest radiator will exit via the drain tube if you open it.

At least, that's what i'm going to do later this week ;)
Click to expand...
Ahh nice one. Thanks for the heads up and thanks again string i didnt think about that regarding allowing air intake to drain loop.
 
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