Draining dilemma

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Ok guys I'm gonna get straight to the point...see my sig for my WC kit.

1) I am going to be adding a GPU to my loop, however I just checked and my tubing is too short for me to remove my bay res/pump combo to tip it over and drain it from there. What's the easiest way to drain it without wetting myself :p I'll need to reuse the fluid but don't know how to drain it without removing a tube and spilling coolant everywhere lol.

2) I also stupidly didn't plan a T line or any other means to drain my loop. Can anyone suggest what I can do in future to make draining easier?

3) I saw a youtube video where someone screwed a barb with a bit of tubing on it to the fill port of his res and tipped his whole case until it drained into a bottle...is the fillport on the XSPC X20 750 threaded for a G 1/4"?


My setup:



imag0218cv.jpg

imag0216jl.jpg


^ Old pics but still my basic layout
 
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Just buy new tubing, and cut the current one near te top and blow all the fluid into a cup.

If I leave the pump running and cut the tube which returns to the res/pump's inlet so that the pump pushes the fluid out of the rad and cpu block, would that work better and drain it fully?

To make this easier in future should I put in longer tubing for the res or add a T-line/quick release/shutoff valve somewhere?



EDIT: Uploaded pics to show my tubing layout!
 
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Siphon it out of the res fill port. You should be able to get almost all of it out by tilting the case forward a bit when most of it is out, in order to get the last bit.
 
Do not leave the pump running to drain the system bad idea.

Remove the EK barb collar from the barb on the rad at the back left and side. Mat sure ass end of PC is over the sink. Drain straight into the kitchen sink.

Replace barb and re fill with Di water, flush for a few hours. and repeat above. them fill with new liquid. No need to cut any tubing.

But next time you do it make sure you leave enough room.
 
Cut the tubing in the middle, near the gfx card, between rad and CPU

OK so that's the tube that goes to the bottom port which is the inlet for coolant to go back into the res/pump.

Good spot too because that's exactly where I need to add my GPU loop saving me from having to use my backup/emergency tubing lol :p

So I should cut them and hold both over a container straight away right? Will I need to move the case about to get it all out?
 
OK so that's the tube that goes to the bottom port which is the inlet for coolant to go back into the res/pump.

Good spot too because that's exactly where I need to add my GPU loop saving me from having to use my backup/emergency tubing lol :p

So I should cut them and hold both over a container straight away right? Will I need to move the case about to get it all out?

It's easier (time wise) to blow in one end
 
Do not leave the pump running to drain the system bad idea.

Remove the EK barb collar from the barb on the rad at the back left and side. Mat sure ass end of PC is over the sink. Drain straight into the kitchen sink.

Replace barb and re fill with Di water, flush for a few hours. and repeat above. them fill with new liquid. No need to cut any tubing.

But next time you do it make sure you leave enough room.

I plan on reusing the coolant as it's only been in there for a few months, do I still need to flush even though I'm just going to fill it back in there again?
 
OK so I suppose I have two options:

1) Cut the tube in the middle coming in from the Rad and going back to the Res and add the GPU Waterblock to the loop there

2) Remove the compression fitting from the rad and drain from there and cut the tube inside the case to add the GPU waterblock
 
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As Cleeecooo stated if using the same liquid you dont need to flush how ever i all ways do.

All so if reusing the liquid use a coffee filter and run the liquid though before using again.

Every one has there way of doing things this is just how i do it.
 
can i ask why are you removing liquid if you just going to refill it again with the same liquid. If it working there is old adage that comes into play "If it works leave it alone". If its because you getting high temps its because of the way the rad is placed.

All so that must be a bugger to bleed because the way you rad and bay res is. I would move the bay res to the top of the system. Turn the rad the other way around so the barbs are at the top (air will come out better). How ever if the rad has a Bleed screw in the upper side the way it is now it will be 100% easier to bleed.

Another way is to get a hole saw at 120mm , mask and drill 3 x 120mm holes in the roof and mount it in the roof ... or simple made 4 brackets bolt the rad to the roof laying it flat and have the pipes facing backwards so they go though the back or drill 2 holes though the case so they go through the case.

sorry im a modder at hart and get used to shredding cases to making things work better and look better..
 
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I'm adding a GPU Block to my loop which currently only has a CPU block


I read Koolance do a Drain Valve that can be added to the lowest part of the loop which means you don't need to flip the case upside down. Anyone heard of this or should I just get a T-connector to use for draining in future?


Also, those 45 degree angle fittings by Bitspower - do they still need to be connected to compression/barb fittings? Planning to use them on my GPU Block and perhaps on the Rad fittings too because they bend the tubing (the Rad is now placed lower and those pics in the OP are old)
 
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I use drain values in my test rigs they do work quite well how ever its best to add two so they empty quicker then you dont get a air lock. Add one in the top of the loop and one in the bottom. Open the top one first to allow air into the system and then open the bottom one and its bleeds easily.

T lines are good how ever they some times collect sediment in base where the t line is going out.
 
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