Engine oil change - Newbie

[Xein]

I'm looking to change out the oil in my Citroen DS3 and as I've never done it before I'm just wondering how complicated it will be for a first timer to do?

I've done some preliminary research of the parts/tools I need and have watched a couple of videos but just looking for some guidance/information from those that are experienced in this area.

I've tried to have a quick browse through previous threads but the search function didn't return much of help.

 

[mccarf]

Can't comment on the DS3 specifically but a couple of years ago I wouldn't dare do anything to my own cars more than swap a light bulb. I watched people on youtube service my model of car and copied them. It mostly took me much longer to do it but I always managed things in the end with lots of perseverance and swearing (oil, filters, spark plugs etc).

I grabbed a large set of Halfords toolkits which were usually recommended on here:
https://www.halfords.com/tools/hand-tools/socket-sets/
The one I went for were one of the ones which say garunteed for life. For example one of the ratchets broke in my set, I took the ratchet back to Halfords and they just gave me another one there and then, no questions asked.

I also got a bunch of other tools from the cheaper side of things. The stuff that would specifically help you I think is an oil pan to catch the oil when it squirts out and also some rubber gloves so you can grip the oil filter to twist it with a good grip as well as keeping your hands clean. I bought a cheap trolley jack. In hindsight, I wish I had gotten a better one that can lift the car higher because the jack can't lift the car high enough to put the axle stands on anything but the lowest setting. There are ways to get around this like putting wood under the jack, but I think just buying the right thing in the first place is easier and safer. Axle stands I went for decent ones because they are what stops the car from falling on me.

The other thing I got was a really nice light which I picked up cheap from Lidl at the time. I've fixed stuff at night with this thing and it's really become invaluable. It's one of those long ones with a hook so you can hang it or just lay it down.

I'm sure others have much more experience and advice but this was my experience of being a complete newbie to doing mechanical things with cars. They really aren't as intimidating as they seem.

 

[Cyber-Mav]

If your oil filter is accessible from top of engine then you may be able to use suction pump method to get the whole filter and oil job done with minimal effort and mess.

 

[Xein]

Thanks @mccarf , I'll check out the tool kit from Halfords.

@Cyber-Mav Unfortunately not, it sits towards the lower portion of the engine and requires some of the air pipes to be removed to access.

 

[ericmcn]

changing oil is relatively straightforward and doing it yourself gives the satisfaction of knowing exactly what oil is actually used.

I done the Oil in my 3L Subaru (amongst other things) recently, a few pointers.

1 get a good ramp (1 is sufficient, but 2 is preferred)
2 never skimp on safety, put the handbrake on obviously - if you are in any way not comfortable get someone else to do it!
3 warm the car up, oil will flow out easier
4 know what oil to use and capacity - check the service book or the web
5 know the torque setting for the filter
6 get a filter removal tool
7 and a torque adaptor bit
8 with the car warmed up and on a ramp...

A remove the dip stick and the oil cap
B Access the drain plug on the sump, remove it slowly...and catch the oil on a oil pan -- Make Tea
C Remove the Oil Filter with a filter tool, again catch any oil
D Now all oil should be removed
E Insert the new filter, lube up the edges with oil and half fill with oil - this will prevent oil starvation upon start up. Using recommended torque setting, tighten that filter - usually its just on fairly tight no need to go to town
F Moving onto the drain plug on the sump - clean the drain plug and put on a new crush washer, tighten it up but don't go mad - you dont want to damage threads on the sump
G Now, for filling. If it takes 5 litres, put in 5L slowly with a funnel -
H If you have the car on 1 ramp and its slanted drop the car level, leave the oil settle 5 or 10 minutes and check the level.
I That's pretty much it, if it needs more oil top it up to the full marker... start up and go for a drive.
J Check oil again next morning (level surface) and hopefully is all good and no leaks underneath

Total time for this should be < 1 hour

 

[ericmcn]

This is a ramp i used, the Subaru is a heavy beast but 1 ramp was sufficient, I just dropped to a level ground after to check the levels were correct

Torque for the Oil Filter on mine...

Fresh Oil.

 

[Xein]

Legend, thanks @ericmcn appreciate the detailed guide.

I've got myself a new filter ordered and have already bought an oil drip tray and funnel, now I just need the last few bits and I should be set.

Appreciate all the help given so far by everyone.

 

[lordrobs]

Torque for the Oil Filter on mine...

Luckily the correct torque for the oil filter on my car just happens to be the same as the maximum torque I can apply by hand while reaching down into the depths of the engine bay

 

[BUDFORCE]

Don't over torque the sump plug.

If you have a torque wrench and know the spec even better, but assuming you dont it only has to be tight enough to stay on and not come loose.

I think the biggest mistake people make first going into this stuff is over torquing.

Edit: I've had a couple of ramps but more recently found some plastic ramps on eBay £50 for a pair they are better than the metal ramps. I'd avoid jacking up if you can for servicing only as you need to get your entire body under, it's also more stable.

With the oil filter the method I have always used to tighten is just do it by hand about as hard as you can, but don't use any tools.

Iv used this on bikes/cars it's fine, you don't need a tool to tighten it further.

 

[ericmcn]

I done all the fluids on my Subaru, but ran into difficulty on the transmission oil - it has 2 drain plugs and 5+ litres of fluid, one drain plug was an odd hex nut which i removed with a breakers bar but the other was seized solid - not moving, but this was all done with 1 ramp and limited access to swirl a breaker bar. It will be removed with a proper ramp when i decide to take to a garage

Over torqued nuts are indeed a huge problem but sometimes they just seize themselves overtime. If you encounter such a problem is best to leave to experts to remove as there is a good chance you will just round it further and make it impossible to take out. A very hot flame could do the trick but you don't want to set your car aflame...

 

[sigma]

I'm not keen on ramps. I prefer a jack and axel stands and ideally lifted up on both sides. Yes, it's more faff but many moons ago I had a ramp get stuck whilst trying to drive onto it (most likely operator error as I didn't use blocks of wood), there's also surely a risk of driving over it as well - although to be fair, the ramps shown above look pretty decent as there seems to be a plate that takes the resting weight. Mine are not as fancy but they're also sat gathering dust. Jack and stands have lower risk IMO as long as you lift and place the stands in a suitable position (usually a chassis point or subframe rather than the sill).

Also, chocks for the rear wheels are not a bad shout they really do work... as I find out nearly every time I use them and forget to remove

 

[SixTwoSix]

Been wondering about doing this myself lately too, rely on the garage way too much even for small issues.

How long would you say it takes to pay for itself, assuming you had no stands, ramps, tools...after the initial outlay and minus the typical garage fees for an oil change, assuming an annual oil change. A few years?

 

[ericmcn]

I'm not keen on ramps. I prefer a jack and axel stands and ideally lifted up on both sides. Yes, it's more faff but many moons ago I had a ramp get stuck whilst trying to drive onto it (most likely operator error as I didn't use blocks of wood), there's also surely a risk of driving over it as well - although to be fair, the ramps shown above look pretty decent as there seems to be a plate that takes the resting weight. Mine are not as fancy but they're also sat gathering dust. Jack and stands have lower risk IMO as long as you lift and place the stands in a suitable position (usually a chassis point or subframe rather than the sill).

Also, chocks for the rear wheels are not a bad shout they really do work... as I find out nearly every time I use them and forget to remove

That ramp is this one, really good quality from Germany and its hydraulic so can also increase the height, far better than a jack and stands IMO - you do need some access ramps to mount onto it as the bumper will scuff it, well mine did.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Ramp...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[Cyber-Mav]

Depending on car you may not even need to jack it up and can do the job lying down. Works for aygo and id assume will work for any 4x4 suv things.

 

[BUDFORCE]

Been wondering about doing this myself lately too, rely on the garage way too much even for small issues.

How long would you say it takes to pay for itself, assuming you had no stands, ramps, tools...after the initial outlay and minus the typical garage fees for an oil change, assuming an annual oil change. A few years?

Like 1 year lol.

After the gear the actual bits you need are about £45.

 

[sigma]

That ramp is this one, really good quality from Germany and its hydraulic so can also increase the height, far better than a jack and stands IMO - you do need some access ramps to mount onto it as the bumper will scuff it, well mine did.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Ramp-Hydraulic-Lifting-Jack-Car-Device-Ramp-Adjustable-2T-Garage-Bottle-Jack/184187157615?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Wouldn’t that just push the wheel up into the arch due to compressing the suspension?

The other issue I foresee with a ramp is that should you want to do any suspension, brake or wheel work then you’ll need axle stands and a jack anyway. Jacks and stands are also good for supporting/holding other items as well, such as gearboxes if you’re changing a mount. I do appreciate that not everyone will do this type of work.

 

[lordrobs]

Wouldn’t that just push the wheel up into the arch due to compressing the suspension?

Not unless you apply an equal force in a downward motion at the same time

Those types of ramps do seem quite convenient for when you want to quickly get access under a car and a normal set of ramps doesn't give the clearance you need.

 

[IAmATeaf]

I no longer bother as my local garage will do an oil and filter change for peanuts so not worth the time and effort as far as I'm concerned.

 

[adam cool dude]

Luckily the correct torque for the oil filter on my car just happens to be the same as the maximum torque I can apply by hand while reaching down into the depths of the engine bay

That's pretty much the same for all cars. No need for a measurement just hand tighten. Oil pressure will do the rest.

 

[lordrobs]

That's pretty much the same for all cars. No need for a measurement just hand tighten. Oil pressure will do the rest.

Yeah, I was just being a bit cheeky really I'm a stickler for torquing things up properly but I'd never even think to bother using a torque wrench to put an oil filter on!