Experiences with bigNG fan/pump controller

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I recently bought the mCubed bigNG fan/pump controller (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BB-005-MU). It is connected via USB and gets its power via a 4-pin molex connector. It has 2 digital temperature sensors and 4 analogue sensors. Finally it has 4 "fan" sensor lines for telling the MB/BOIS what the current fan speeds are.

You program the sensors using some frankly klunky and out-dated software (T-balancer Navigator 2.12) that allows the fan speeds to be altered according to the various temperature readings, or manually. You can choose to control the fan by

* "Response Curve" - a set of temperature v fan speed points, joined by straight lines
* Target Temperature (with various options for moving towards that temperature)
* Software Sensor (see below)
* Manual

Since each fan channel can support up to 20 W of output you can control a pump as well as a set of fans. My plan is to use this to control my pump and the fans on my radiator at the very least. Doubtless I will control the other fans as much as I can within the constraints of the available outputs. I like the fact that the bigNG is self-contained and will come into life immediately, allowing the fans and pump to start before the BIOS has finished its POST, never mind the OS.

It is possible to calibrate the temperature sensors, although I haven't tried this yet.

It is also possible to feed temperatures from the CPU/GPU and other MB ICs, but this will only happen when the software is running (and communicating with the bigNG). This is the "Software Sensor" mode mentioned above but my experience with it to date is a) it only works with a few tools that read the MB sensors and b) it seems to "forget" it settings when there is an issue communicating with the software actually providing the sensor readings.

Having said that these "software sensor" temperatures ought to be far more accurate than the ones provided via the bigNG's own sensors (which could be relatively far from the actual silicon, but the "software sensors" are only any use once someone has logged into the computer. This would be offset through the use of a service/daemon that started early in the boot and didn't need to wait for someone to login. I have my doubts that the current software offering will include such functionality. The good news, however, is that the API for controlling the bigNG (via its USB interface) is published, so it would be possible to write such as service. It is something I may do, but it's not top of my todo list!

At the moment my bigNG is only controlling my computer fans and it seems to do this well. However when I rebuilt my computer over Christmas it will be controlling my coolant pump and I will then be relying on it to never stop the pump. I will let you know how I get on with that build.
 
please keep us informed, i have been looking at this kit to do basically what you are aiming for.
 
I have one of these, as you say the software leaves a lot to be desired. I have 6 fans set to one channel for my rad and then my case fans on another channel. Monitor pump rpm with it but thats all I have done. keep thinking I need to play around with it but can never bring myself to go into it at depth.

Also I had real problems with the internal usb and noticed that the instuctions for which wire was which differed from CD, Mannual and their website. If wrong even my mobo wouldn't light up. Lots of panic the first time I installed it.

I give it another go sometime soon I guess. I like it because you can stick it out of the way, mine is behind the mobo panel leaving my 5.25 bays free
 
Same here - would really appreciate your experiences using it, and any potential problems with the software etc as I', looking for a similar set-up but not sure whether to go for the bigNG or pay the extra for an aquaero.
 
I did a bit of experimenting with the calibration of the sensors last night. I compared the temp read by the sensor against the temp readouts from Speedfan. There are two things you can do to "calibrate" the sensor:

1. Add a temperature offset.
2. Take a percentage of the temperature reading.

The offset seems to work, but I had no joy changing the percentage. The default percentage is, not surprisingly, 100% but when you try to edit it the textbox is pre-populated with 255. I tried various values, but I couldn't change the percentage. I will have another go, but either the "Navigator" software doesn't work, or there's a problem with the bigNG itself. More investigation is clearly required, but this could provide a good way to overcome the fact that the sensors aren't that close to the silicon/internals of a device without having to try to rig up the software sensor stuff.

More to follow...
 
As others, very interested to see how this turns out as automatic control would be so much better than all manual. Read some reviews on these and they seemed to be liked but good to see someone using it and what if/problems they are having.

This is me musing more than what you possibly can do with the mcubed. Could it not simply use an inline temp sensor and a custom fan profile for rpm v temp. In simple loop of res-pump-cpu/gpu-rad then if the temp sensor is after the rad then if cpu/gpu is producing too much heat for the rad to cool with current fan rpm then it increase fans rpm. Doesn't monitor silicon temp but surely never needs to as with a half decent block/loop it will keep temps under control. Also musing with this, if it could be programed onto something like the mcubed then it wouldn't rely on communication of any software once OS is loaded.
 
I have one of these to control my san ace,
It can run fans a MUCH lower voltages that most other controllers but the software is really poor and has no support (the forum is helpful).
But it is a set and forget item so not a major nightmare.
Also had the internal usb issue (using external usb currently) so let us know which wire is which mightcamels

If you have the cash get the aquaero
 
Could it not simply use an inline temp sensor and a custom fan profile for rpm v temp. In simple loop of res-pump-cpu/gpu-rad then if the temp sensor is after the rad then if cpu/gpu is producing too much heat for the rad to cool with current fan rpm then it increase fans rpm.

I agree with the thrust of this approach, which I had considered trying. I won't be in a position to try it until after Xmas, but I am concerned that the temperature sensors may not be sensitive enough to measure small increases in water temperature that lead to the need to up the level of cooling (or deceases leading to less cooling required). Anyway we will see...

My current WC setup uses the Zalman Reserator. It only usually shows 1 deg C difference between input and output temps and the temps themselves are pretty stable. If the computer is working hard this can rise to 2 deg C, but I don't think I've ever seen a bigger difference and it's never much above ambient temperature (which should probably be considered in all of this because the rad will be dissipating heat relative to the ambient temperature).

As I have over 2 weeks off over Xmas I should have time to build this computer (and one other) and play with the bigNG to some degree [Although the wife might have other ideas...].

John
 
Also had the internal usb issue (using external usb currently) so let us know which wire is which

I have the internal USB working (at the second attempt). My MB has a USB header that's big enough for 5 pins (although one is blank/no connection). Initially I had plugged the 4 female connector into the 3 pins and one blank... When I corrected this, it worked.

There seems to be some variations in the colours used for the data wires. Here's an example I found on the web for a USB cable:

PIN COLOR: CONNECT TO:
1 RED, ORANGE POWER, VCC, SVCC, +5V
2 WHITE, YELLOW P-, DATA-, SBD-
3 GREEN, GREY P+, DATA+, SBD+
4 BLACK, BLUE, BROWN GROUND, GRND, GND
[5 SHIELD]

However the wires for the bigNG are:

RED: +5V
YELLOW: Data-
WHITE: Data+
BLACK: GND

[http://www.t-balancer.com/download/bng.pdf]

I think it would be easy to get the two data wires the wrong way around and/or put the 4 pin connector in the wrong way etc in the MB USB header.

John
 
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