Fiesta Zetec-S MK6.5 - Engine management light

R.O.S.S.I

R.O.S.S.I

R.O.S.S.I

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Just driving home from work today and noticed the engine management light was on in my Fiesta.

I noticed it pretty much as I was pulling out of the car park and it definitely wasn't on when I got to work this morning.

I continued driving the car to see if it showed any signs of problems and for the 25 mile trip home it was fine. There was no loss of power, no erratic idling, no overheating, no strange noises that I could hear. The car still acted as normal.

I know its a bit of a stab in the dark but are there any usuals that "go" on a MK6/MK6.5 Fiesta that would be worth looking at? I'm hoping its just a loose connection somewhere or a sensor as I imagine if it was something more serious that the car would show signs of a problem? Or am I going to have to bite the bullet and just take it to a garage and have it put on the diagnostics?

The car is at 73K miles, due a service in a couple months but has been pretty rock solid since the 30K miles i bought it at.

Any help appreciated.
 
O2 sensors are common. But there's no point in checking or changing anything. The light could be on for any one out of hundreds of fault codes.


Have the codes read and go from there. You can buy cheap OBD2 code readers which should point you in the right direction. But if you don't know what you're doing, I would advise to just take it to a garage.
 
I was driving along in my cmax 58 plate and it flashed up engine malfunction. It drove home fine.

Turned out it was a brake light switch fault. Cant remember how I worked that out though...so not much help.

Just pointing out it might not be an actual engine fault, or my car warning system is completely wrong, lol
 
Well i'm going to try the car tomorrow morning and see if it is still on as I've heard sometimes they can just go off on their own if its nothing major.

If it doesn't go off tomorrow i'll look at buying a reader/cable off Ebay as they are only £12-£17. Luckily i'm off work till next Thursday now.
 
To enter the instrument cluster Self-Diagnostic Mode simultaneously press and hold the tripmeter reset button and turn the ignition switch to position II.

When tESt is displayed in the LCD release the button.

The instrument cluster will enter the gauge sweep test.

To navigate through the Self-Diagnostic Mode tests press the tripmeter RESET button repeatedly as required.

The self-test is deactivated when the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position or when the tripmeter reset button is pressed and held for 5 seconds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szRJPrK6Qxo
 
Hmmm, just did the self test on the dash and it reported DTC 0 None. So i'm taking that to mean no fault code.

Think im going to have to just buy one of the code reader thingys!
 
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I'd have spent a fiver on a Bluetooth/wifi obd dongle and a fiver on an app for your flavour of smartphone. A lot simpler to use, most will give you live data and do stuff like give you a link to a page with troubleshooting advice for that particular code
 
andy_mk3 said:
O2 sensors are common.
Click to expand...

R.O.S.S.I said:
P0030 which is this - http://www.obd-codes.com/p0030
Click to expand...

Exactly what I said to begin with lol.

It's showing a fault on the 02 sensor, the heated side of it specifically. There's 4 wires to the O2 sensor, which has a green plug located at the top right of the engine. I think the wires are black, white and 2 grey. The 2 grey ones, you need to make sure there's a 12v supply to the plug when you turn the ignition on. And on the sensor side, the same 2 grey wires, there should be a resistance of 9.2ohms.

If the resistance is higher or lower, you need a new O2 sensor. If you don't have a 12v supply, you have a fuse/relay/wiring/ecu problem.
 
andy_mk3 said:
Exactly what I said to begin with lol.

It's showing a fault on the 02 sensor, the heated side of it specifically. There's 4 wires to the O2 sensor, which has a green plug located at the top right of the engine. I think the wires are black, white and 2 grey. The 2 grey ones, you need to make sure there's a 12v supply to the plug when you turn the ignition on. And on the sensor side, the same 2 grey wires, there should be a resistance of 9.2ohms.

If the resistance is higher or lower, you need a new O2 sensor. If you don't have a 12v supply, you have a fuse/relay/wiring/ecu problem.
Click to expand...

Haha looks like you were spot on!

Bah, this sounds a bit over my head plus I dont have any means of checking voltages and resistance etc. Can I just buy a complete new sensor and get it fitted?
 
You can do, it's more likely to be the sensor at fault. It's just a case of checking a few simple things before you go out and spend ~£60 on an O2 sensor when it's something as simple as a fuse.
 
Yeh true. Have seen genuine ones for sale on Ebay for about £40 so not too bad really. Is it a multimeter that I need to test the wires?
 
Are you sure it was genuine? Last genuine Ford one I fitted at work was c.£200 lol. Yes a multimeter is what you want.
 
Just spoke to my friend who used to be a mechanic, he told me to buy one off EuroCarParts and he will fit it for me for a few quid.

Just looking on the site now and there are loads of listings for Lambda sensors for my car and some of them say "(Exhaust Manifold)" and some don't. Would anyone be able to help me with choosing the correct/best one for my car?

http://www.eurocarparts.com/lambda-sensor

Car is a 2006 Ford Fiesta Zetec-S 1.6 Petrol.

Thanks again for all the help with this :)
 
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