Final Specs...Phewww:-)

sychnant

sychnant

sychnant

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Joined
14 Nov 2007
Posts
156
Can anybody see if there is anything in my specs that doesnt match? Is it the right ram etc... :-) will i need cable extenders?
I need to click the "buy" button before the ram goes back up in price. Thanks for everyones advice in the forum.. I hope i manage to build it ok now..:-)
PS.. anyone live in Liverpool want to help???? :-)

Intel Core 2 Quad Pro Q6600 "Energy Efficient SLACR 95W
Tuniq Tower 120-LFB CPU Cooler
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3P (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard
OCZ 4GB (2x2GB) PC2-6400C5 Dual Channel Vista Gold Series DDR2
BFG GeForce 8800 GT OC 512MB GDDR3 HDTV/Dual DVI (PCI-Express)
Western Digital Caviar SE16 500GB SATA-II 16MB Cache - OEM X2
Pioneer DVR-212D 18x18 DVD±RW Serial ATA Dual Layer ReWriter
Lian-Li PC-7 PLUS II Aluminium Midi-Tower Case - Black
Corsair HX620W ATX2.2 Modular SLI Compliant PSU(CMPSU-620HXUK)
Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium 64-Bit Edition DVD - OEM

Total price 953.00 inc vat and shipping...
 
seems fine to me

you do have a ide optical drive for installing vista dont you in the very very very rare chance yoru sata drive is not instantly detected (i.e. if drivers are needed). no need to add one just for the sake of it though.

is that the OEM or retail q6600 your getting?
if retail, i suggest gettting the OEM as it is cheaper, however if you planning to keep the cpu for a few years the longer warranty with the retail may be better.
 
NoobieOCer said:
why is that??? what does oem stand for???
Click to expand...
In the case of the OEM Q6600 means it doesn't come with a heatsink & consequently no fancy packaging + the warranty is only for a year vs 3-years for retail version.

OEM products is/was aimed at big PC builders like Dell who buy components in bulk, put them together = a PC & sell it on to me & you :)
 
hp7909 said:
In the case of the OEM Q6600 means it doesn't come with a heatsink & consequently no fancy packaging + the warranty is only for a year vs 3-years for retail version.

OEM products is/was aimed at big PC builders like Dell who buy components in bulk, put them together = a PC & sell it on to me & you :)
Click to expand...

oooooooooo ok tyyyyy but google said the manufactures bought them in batches and put thier name on it and sell it off lol :P
 
I would get the 520W corsair as the 620 seems a bit overkill, and with the savings you could do as said above and get a SATA optical drive incase the IDE one is not detected.
 
It was my understanding that the Vista installer could read drivers from a memory stick ? If not, then thats something that went out of the Beta that shouldnt have.
 
Thanks for all the replies,I do have an old IDE optical drive i can use if i need to
I am hoping to futureproof as much as possible here ,which is why i have more and faster Ram and slightly bigger and better quality PSU.
I am intending to do a Dual boot vista/xp with having 2 HD's and have an OS on each HD. Anyone know any articles that can help talk me through a dual boot install?
and finally will i have to alter the MB voltages for the ram? and How??? ie;- 1.8v to 2.1 v . How would i know if i need to do this and what difference does this make to the pc? (silly noob question)
 
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More RAM won't make you futureproof.

That's like saying, this RAM is old now, but if I buy MORE of it, it'll be just as good as newer RAM.

Not true. For all you know, there may be a 2gb kit that'll be faster than your 4gb kit in the future.
 
sychnant said:
Thanks for all the replies,I do have an old IDE optical drive i can use if i need to
I am hoping to futureproof as much as possible here ,which is why i have more and faster Ram and slightly bigger and better quality PSU.
I am intending to do a Dual boot vista/xp with having 2 HD's and have an OS on each HD. Anyone know any articles that can help talk me through a dual boot install?
and finally will i have to alter the MB voltages for the ram? and How??? ie;- 1.8v to 2.1 v . How would i know if i need to do this and what difference does this make to the pc? (silly noob question)
Click to expand...

Well I don't know any articles but I can help you if you need any as I have an XP/Vista Dual boot both on seperate HDDs at the moment, & I will be doing it with my new comp once the parts arrive well whenever they arrive any day now sorta thing. But to give you quick walkthrough, Install XP 1st on the 1st HDD, Update XP fully & restart the comp when necessary & update until it's fully updated, also get latest drivers for parts aswell... after that is done, start to install Vista, it'll let you choose the 2nd HDD to install on, it's pretty much a normal installation, then you just need to update Vista aswell & install drivers & what else, after Vista is installed, everytime you start up the comp there will be a little menu that comes up for 30 seconds allowing you to select to boot either XP or Vista, if you leave it longer than 30 seconds it auto boots Vista up for you... That should be all there is too it!

In reference to RAM, Having 4GB of RAM over 2GB when in Vista offers a somewhat decent performance boost since Vista is RAM hungry... I'd say that is more futureproof, sure there is always strides for faster RAM & that is how it always goes, but would he be better having 2GB of that RAM that will soon be outperformed in speed, or 4GB that will soon be outperformed in speed if not already?
 
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I appreciate the advice about the ram.. I have to admit that i am still unsure about the MB... i am NOT an OC, just a beginner who was hoping that i will just be able to assemble it all and install windows..and if i need to make some small adjustments to increase its stability i would be able to navigate through the various screens and settings without destroying to many components on the way..i read an article here..
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=1119&pageID=3578 that says it not a board for beginners..:-(((( would i better with my original choice the Abit IP35 Pro, because it has an easier to understand interface? Money is not important here, piece of mind is...
I need to know like... yesterday? Thanks again..
 
sychnant said:
I appreciate the advice about the ram.. I have to admit that i am still unsure about the MB... i am NOT an OC, just a beginner who was hoping that i will just be able to assemble it all and install windows..and if i need to make some small adjustments to increase its stability i would be able to navigate through the various screens and settings without destroying to many components on the way..i read an article here..
http://www.bjorn3d.com/read.php?cID=1119&pageID=3578 that says it not a board for beginners..:-(((( would i better with my original choice the Abit IP35 Pro, because it has an easier to understand interface? Money is not important here, piece of mind is...
I need to know like... yesterday? Thanks again..
Click to expand...

The Abit IP-35 Pro is suppost to be a good board it's the board I've opted for with my next comp, I had read of some people having some problems with them but I don't know if that is far & few between, however I opted with it since it does otherwise seem to be a great board.
 
Go for the Gigabyte P35-DS3R, you won't regret it.

Anyway, as for ram, if you do need more in the future it's a simple case of dropping another 2 gig kit in - don't waste money now, you don't need it.

Fair enough with the beefy PSU. I bought a 600W psu with 4x18A rails to make sure i won't have to upgrade it for a while also - 5 year warranty means it'll be good for my next 3/4 systems.

with the ram, you want to set the voltage to +0.3, failure to do so may make the ram unstable and your machine will crash/lock up.
 
I thought with the ram putting in 2gb each in 2 slots was better than putting 1gb each in 4 slots? arent they balanced better?
With MB, i am not sure if i will be able to manage my way around the setup with the Gigabyte as easily as the Abit which has an easier to use GUI for tweaking. as i say iam a novice here and a lot of technical info goes right over my head ( about a mile over it) But i do read the manuals and follow instructions if they are understandable..
What i really need is not to pay someone to build it but to pay someone to show me.. then i would learn properly..
 
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No, that's incorrect.

The only reported problems with 4 sticks over 2 sticks of memory is on older AMD 939 systems where the on-chip memory controller had a problem where 4 sticks would cause the memory to clock to DDR333 instead of 400, and the latency would change from T1 to T2, often this was changeable back using the BIOS.

There would be no problems like that on an intel based system as the memory controller is on the motherboard (not on the chip - atleast not until q2 of 2008).

Building a machine is not that hard, but don't get into bad habbits or problems can arise - always overclock in the BIOS, and always do it manually. The basic principles of overclocking is to set the cpu multiplier as low as it will go, and the ram multiplier as low as it can go, then gradually increase the FSB by 5 until it crashes, then back off by 5, boot into windows and stress test it using orthos or the like, if you get errors take another 5fsb off and repeat untill you find your MAX fsb.

For every component find your max FSB, for ram you simply set the processor multi to low, and the ram multi to high and gradually increase fsb till your ram starts giving you errors (again, testable in orthos).

Same for CPU, but when you're testing CPU the ram multi has to be low and the cpu multi high. You'll then have the max results for max board FSB, max RAM fsb, and max CPU speed - then it's down to maths to decide which multiplier to use for the CPU and RAM to get them as close to their max operating rates possible without any paticular one being left behind - in this case it's better to use a lower CPU multiplier to get higher FSB on the board and as such get better choices for ram speed.

It's very much a science, not an art.

Anyway, if you want more info I'm sure I can direct you to a lot of people who know more than me about it, drop me a PM.
 
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