Finally doing it....the long way - spec help!

Res pump pump would be better for me, I might even be able to line up one pump upside down directly opposite the first pump.

Now to just stop being ill and I can think about putting together a final spec.

Edit: just found the ek dcp 4.0 pumps for £33! Snap two up while they are in stock :)
 
Last edited:
Now just waiting for Rich to get back to work (monday) so he can work his magic and dig me out some 6870 blocks.

Also going to see if they can get and do a bundle on the 1080 with 180mmx4 plate, 4 x AP181's and the feet. I know Phobya and other places do set bundles for the rad, plate and fans so here's hoping so can OCUK as I'd rather just buy everything from the same place, a place I can trust at that :)

Starting thinking about tubing/coolant too, going to use coloured tubing with just regular DI, as my res is going to be 2.5L, the loop is going to be roughly another 2L or so, makes the £3.99 5L jug of DI a tempting offer. For size I'm going to go all in for 1/2"compression fittings, need a fair few 45' and 90' in the system so swivel compression fittings would be doing me a favour.
 
Last edited:
It's still a little up in the air, 5L of mayhems is going to be pricy in comparison to 5L of DI.

Would mayhems need less maintenance than DI?

I do like the look of the white mayhems I've seen in a few builds however. Still going to need the DI for the flushing.
 
Do OCUK stock the dye drops?

As I can't see them (unless I'm just being my usual blind self) I just didn't think about dyes...

Will I need to add biocide/kill coil in if just using a DI+dye combination?

Edit: seen the dye on mayhems site, around £6 a bottle, I'll ask rich/5UB if they can get some in on monday while I compile the rest of my requests for them :D

Also Cleee, what is your opinion on tube ID sizing and compression fittings, is 7/16 ID tube with 1/2 fittings a better option than say 1/2 and 1/2 or 7/16 and 7/16?
 
Last edited:
pgi947 said:
Do OCUK stock the dye drops?

As I can't see them (unless I'm just being my usual blind self) I just didn't think about dyes...

Will I need to add biocide/kill coil in if just using a DI+dye combination?
Yes

Edit: seen the dye on mayhems site, around £6 a bottle, I'll ask rich/5UB if they can get some in on monday while I compile the rest of my requests for them :D
LOL

Also Cleee, what is your opinion on tube ID sizing and compression fittings, is 7/16 ID tube with 1/2 fittings a better option than say 1/2 and 1/2 or 7/16 and 7/16?
Click to expand...

All about looks. When using compressions, any will do. With barbs, 7/16 IMO looks better
 
Thanks again, you genuinely are a fountain of watercooling knowledge :)

Just (hopefully) picked up some black sparkle 7/16 bitspower compression fittings from the MM :D
 
I'll have to remember to hunt around for some quick connect fittings too, need 4 for connecting the rad and res around my desk, was going to use 1/2" h-type snaptite couplings from work but they are far too heavy duty for this use.
 
EK now have stock of all 6870 FC blocks, should make things a little easier :)

Now do I go plexi or acetal?
 
Last edited:
So I think we now have a final spec, will be putting a build log up sometime this week called 'Project Three Piece Suite'. WC spec consisting of:

XSPC Raystorm CPU Block
2 x EK FC-6870 Nickel-Plexi VGA Blocks
2 x EK DCP 4.0 pumps in series
Phobya Extreme Nova 1080 Radiator with either 180mm bracket OR 4 x 200mm depending on hole spacing available.
Zalman Reserator - Pump stripped out, offending holes sealed up. Used as 2.5L res.
XSPC 7/16 ID clear tubing with bitspower black sparkle compression fittings
5L of DI water with mayhems drop dye (undecided on color) and mayhems biocide.

Anything missed?

First intention is to have a layout as so:
res>pump>pump>cpu>1080>gpu>gpu>res

But I see allot of loops go:
Res>pump>cpu>gpu>rad>res

What would be the most effective option?
 
Confirmed now, OCUK can get me the full cover EK 6870 blocks and are currently pricing up the radiator for me :D

Depending on if these parts need to come from mainland europe or not I could well have this build started by the middle of next week :D

Super excited :D
 
It is plexi I have asked for, not only does it look better it was cheaper than the acetal ones.

I will decide loop order once I have everything and know where I'm at in that case then.
 
have a look at itek's build in the same case, 280mm rad fits perfect in there so more cooling in the same space
 
Its fine radiator wise I'm dead set on the 1080, I have the room, plus it will only require 4 x 180mm fans that will be the phobya g-silent 700rpm so near silence too.

And before the 180mm thing gets mentioned I know 180 x 4 = 720, rather than its native 120 x 9 = 1080, not quite sure how phobya have managed it either but it looks the part :)

iTeks build and cyanides for that matter are both lovely, its just less hassle for me having the radiator external, plus it gives the extra cooling potential.
 
pgi947 said:
Its fine radiator wise I'm dead set on the 1080, I have the room, plus it will only require 4 x 180mm fans that will be the phobya g-silent 700rpm so near silence too.

And before the 180mm thing gets mentioned I know 180 x 4 = 720, rather than its native 120 x 9 = 1080, not quite sure how phobya have managed it either but it looks the part :)

iTeks build and cyanides for that matter are both lovely, its just less hassle for me having the radiator external, plus it gives the extra cooling potential.
Click to expand...

at the cost of massive noise and tbh a lot of expence but if thats the way you want it then its up2 you
the 500 will hold more if you want it all internal with minor mods it can hold a 120.2 in the front 120 in the floor and 120 on the back aswell as the 140.2 in the roof.

remember any fans outside of the case need powering up and they will be loud without the case muffling the sound.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom