First attempt to Change oil Filter

Martynt74

Martynt74

Martynt74

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I'm going to attempt my first oil change this weekend on an Alfa Romeo Giulietta.

I've found the correct part (I think)

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/parts/Giulietta_Oil_Filter.shtml

And they have a guide which makes it sound relatively simple.

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_giulietta_oil_filter_2.0l_diesel_change.shtml


Alternatively EuroCarParts have a compatible oil filter and I've always heard that their oil is cheap. Does anyone recommend a particular brand. I'm also not sure what oil I need as some sites say 5W/30 and others say 5W/40. Does this make a difference?

I also assume i'll need 5l of the stuff?

I also figure I need a set of Axle stands. Halfords have some for £15, will they do the job?

Anything else I need to consider? I've got the Halfords 3/8 socket set so should have most of the tools I need shouldn't I?
 
Marvt74 said:
I'm going to attempt my first oil change this weekend on an Alfa Romeo Giulietta.

I've found the correct part (I think)

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/parts/Giulietta_Oil_Filter.shtml

And they have a guide which makes it sound relatively simple.

http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_giulietta_oil_filter_2.0l_diesel_change.shtml


Alternatively EuroCarParts have a compatible oil filter and I've always heard that their oil is cheap. Does anyone recommend a particular brand. I'm also not sure what oil I need as some sites say 5W/30 and others say 5W/40. Does this make a difference?

I also assume i'll need 5l of the stuff?

I also figure I need a set of Axle stands. Halfords have some for £15, will they do the job?

Anything else I need to consider? I've got the Halfords 3/8 socket set so should have most of the tools I need shouldn't I?
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Look in the manual for the correct grade, I don't know your engine to comment.

I'd also pick up a cheap funnel or similar to help pour the new oil in.

For the filter I always tend to stick with genuine ones and in terms of brand of oil I would be less concerned about it as long as it meets the necessary standards. Try Opieoils for instance.
 
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You might want to replace the sump plug washer. Probably doesn't need doing every single time but they are often copper crush washers and can degrade after a few inserts/removals.

Worth checking the sump plug tool - mine is a 8mm square with no external hex, which I had to buy a specific bit for my 1/2" ratchet driver. Hopefully yours is something sensible like a 13mm hex.

I have the 2t Halfords axle stands, have been spot on. Make sure it's on flat ground, chock the rear wheels if you don't trust your handbrake. Don't take any risks!

Personally I'd advise getting a proper oil drain can to catch as much as possible and stop it going everywhere. Halfords have a 6ltr one for about a fiver.

And wear gloves - used engine oil is carcinogenic :)
 
Cheers, I'll get an oil drain can and a funnel.

The sump plug washer is only 50p so will order one just in case.

Will the sump plug tool be specified anywhere in the handbook?
 
Marvt74 said:
Cheers, I'll get an oil drain can and a funnel.

The sump plug washer is only 50p so will order one just in case.

Will the sump plug tool be specified anywhere in the handbook?
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Some cars will have a sqare hole in the nut, which I think is what he's referring to. The link you posted seems to show it's just a normal hex head nut, so you should be fine with your current socket set. But double check and make sure you have the right socket for the sump nut size.

Some tips:

- Watch plenty of videos on youtube, even if it's not for your car the basics of an oil change are the same and an hour watching on youtube shouldn't do you any harm.

- Have something under the container you're using to catch the oil, some matting/old carpet that sort of thing.

- Loosen (don't remove) the drain plug first, if you're having difficulty and can't remove it don't struggle or you'll end up rounding the head. A 6 sided socket is better for this, rather than a 12 sized socket/spanner as it's less prone to round the head. If you really can't loosen it, take it to a garage or ask for help.

- Once you've loosened the sump nut, you know you can proceed - then you can remove the filter. The last thing you want to do is remove the filter only to find you can't get the sump nut off.
 
These are priceless.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-7759...57526&sr=8-7&keywords=oil+filter+removal+tool



Never failed to remove an oil filter with one of these. You use a 3/8 ratchet and extension bar, the more you tighten, the more it grips the filter.


Quick tips..

Drive car for ~15 mins to warm up the oil.

Get a replacement sump plug washer, only use spanners to remove/tighten the sump plug, be careful when putting it back in. Don't want to strip the threads.

-Check you can remove the engine oil filler cap before removing the oil!
-Check you have the correct oil and right amount before removing the oil.
-Make sure it's the right filter.

Put on rubber gloves
Loosen oil cap.
Crack loose the sump plug, get drip pan ready.
Sump plug is probably a 14mm spanner job.
When all the oil stops dripping, remove the oil filter. (This will be full of oil, so beware..)

Once oil filter is off and dripping stops, put in sump plug and new washer.
Now smear a little oil around the seal of the oil filter. This will make a better seal and make it easier to remove next time.
Remove rubber gloves.

Take care not to get oil on the outside of the filter as it makes it harder to tighten it.

Now hand tighten (as hard as you can with bare hands) the oil filter.

Use a funnel for oil, tip the can on it's side so it doesn't glug out everywhere.
Add about 200ML less oil than the engine says it takes. Leave it settle, measure oil on dipstick, top up as required.

From the 'min' to 'max' levels on an oilstick, it's typically 1L.
 
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Chock the rear wheels.
Support on axle stands not the jack.
I also leave the jack in place and often throw a spare wheel under one front wheel as an extra safety measure.
Use a proper oil catch can and dispose of the oil at a recycle point.
Put some carboard or sheets under the car to catch drips. The wind will blow the oil.
Heat up the car before draining.
Don't overfill.
Use a new sump nut and washer.
Torque to the correct setting if possible.
Wear gloves.
Have lots of tissues or cloths to hand just in case.

Good tip above about tipping the oil can sideways to stop it gushing out.
 
Cheers guys. Tightening it is a concern. One article I read gave a specific torque measure but I don't have a torque wrench. Nor have I ever used one before.

Interesting about only needing 1litre of oil. In that case why buy 5l? Or is that just to ensure a decent stock?

Found another guide here which seems a bit more detailed
http://www.ufi.it/images/documentation/service giulietta_layout_ufi_eng.pdf
 
What he means is that it'll take 4L to take it upto min, then a further 1L to take it upto Max. The manual should tell you how much oil to use though, it's not always 5L.
 
bledd. said:
These are priceless.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-7759...57526&sr=8-7&keywords=oil+filter+removal+tool



Never failed to remove an oil filter with one of these. You use a 3/8 ratchet and extension bar, the more you tighten, the more it grips the filter.
Click to expand...


Looks like his oil filter is the paper cartridge type rather than the metal can type so that while those tools are useful it won't be needed for his car. I had to buy a set of oil filter sockets for doing changes on my car which is the same with paper cartridge type - I think I needed a 27mm socket to remove the oil filter casing so it may be worth checking those out. I just got a cheap set off eBay - search for "oil filter socket". Just be prepared for that in case you don't have any decent size spanners handy.
 
One really really important thing, which could easily be forgotten, is to make 100% sure that you've put the sump plug back in and tightened before you start filling with oil.

Sounds obvious, but if you forget, not only will you waste all your newly purchased oil but you'll have a horribly messy driveway and not have a way of getting to the shop to buy more oil unless you have a spare car. :p
 
Haha that sounds like the talk of experience!

One things I have just thought. With Axle stands I assume I put them under the front axle to give me the height at the front to work under. Does this put the car at an angle which would cause a problem?

Or do I need to use 4 axle stands to get the car level?
 
Two at the front is fine, the drain plug is usually at the back of the block, so lifting the front helps you drain the oil. Make sure the car is back level before you top up the last bit of oil though, so you get the level correct.

Be careful where you put the stands. The sill jacking points are OK but if I use these, I put some protection between the stand and the sill to protect the sill.

Other support points are specified in Autodata (I don't have access, sorry). For example, mine says the subframe mounts are OK to support the car on.

Don't place them under the axles unless they are definitely a certified support point!
 
I've just booked the family car in for a full service, will cost around £250. All the best with this, if I had the knowledge I'd be giving it a go as well.
 
DiNZi said:
I've just booked the family car in for a full service, will cost around £250. All the best with this, if I had the knowledge I'd be giving it a go as well.
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Do you mind me asking what is included in that service?

Oil and filter changing is something anyone can do, especially with the help of internet forums :) Once you've done it once and know what you're doing, it's a very easy way to save money on running a car*.

* Unless you have very good reason to have it serviced at a dealer, e.g., warranty, etc.
 
DiNZi said:
I've just booked the family car in for a full service, will cost around £250. All the best with this, if I had the knowledge I'd be giving it a go as well.
Click to expand...

An oil and filter change is really one of the simplest things you can do to your car. I'm all but mechanically inept, yet even I can still manage to change the oil and the filters for servicing the car.

Just take your time, watch some videos, and make sure you have the correct quantities of everything. Last thing you want to do is stick 5L of oil in your car and find out you need 2 more when you don't even hit the dipstick. Granted, this is less likely to happen on a 4 pot, but could easily on a bigger engine (IIRC my S4 took around 9.5L and my RR was around 6-7 for some reason).
 
Marvt74 said:
Or do I need to use 4 axle stands to get the car level?
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I jack it up, if it needs jacking up, some cars you can get away without doing it.

Put axel stands in place when I'm under the car doing the sump plug.

Then once it's draining oil, I remove the stands and then jack so it's down flat on the floor.
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Also..

Scottland said:
What he means is that it'll take 4L to take it upto min, then a further 1L to take it upto Max. The manual should tell you how much oil to use though, it's not always 5L.
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Yes, I did mean this, your manual should say how how much it requires.
 
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