First Mini's in 20 years! C+C welcome!

NikTheSHNIK · 14 Jun 2019 at 20:45

Dis86 · 14 Jun 2019 at 20:57

Really like your style of painting. Only criticism is some of the models have visible mould lines and joints. Just a little bit more prep before painting will sort it!

NikTheSHNIK · 14 Jun 2019 at 22:53

Dis86 said:
Really like your style of painting. Only criticism is some of the models have visible mould lines and joints. Just a little bit more prep before painting will sort it!

Agreed, already working on the next lot and lines have been filed!

Dis86 · 14 Jun 2019 at 23:07

Good man! Actually...if you don't mind, could you let me know how you achieve your paint chipping effects on the kans(?) Shoulder pads?

Shamikebab · 14 Jun 2019 at 23:13

Also drill your gun barrels before painting, it's a simple step but such a big improvement.

NikTheSHNIK · 15 Jun 2019 at 00:31

Dis86 said:
Good man! Actually...if you don't mind, could you let me know how you achieve your paint chipping effects on the kans(?) Shoulder pads?

Kitchen sponge, dip in lleadbelcher, rub most off on tissue paper and dab.

You want the sponge next to dry before touching the model!

Dis86 · 15 Jun 2019 at 08:17

Double post

Dis86 · 15 Jun 2019 at 08:17

Thats what I do for 1st stage weathering. Worked really well on those shoulder plates

NikTheSHNIK · 17 Jun 2019 at 09:14

Dis86 said:
Thats what I do for 1st stage weathering. Worked really well on those shoulder plates

I guess because they are such large areas it works better, the curve maybe helped to lengthen the sponge dabs too.

Intrigued as to what your other stages for weathering are?.. Pray tell!

Dis86 · 17 Jun 2019 at 10:09

NikTheSHNIK said:
I guess because they are such large areas it works better, the curve maybe helped to lengthen the sponge dabs too.

Intrigued as to what your other stages for weathering are?.. Pray tell!

I'll use a couple of washes applied locally to simulate grease and oils. Exhausts either get a Matt black drybrush to simulate soot or I'll bronze, blue, purple, red them to look like heat distortion. Gun barrels too.
Then I'll use something like streaking grime to really dirty it up. Needs a good cost of varnish at several stages too in case you want to undo any of that.

NikTheSHNIK · 17 Jun 2019 at 11:22

Dis86 said:
I'll use a couple of washes applied locally to simulate grease and oils. Exhausts either get a Matt black drybrush to simulate soot or I'll bronze, blue, purple, red them to look like heat distortion. Gun barrels too.
Then I'll use something like streaking grime to really dirty it up. Needs a good cost of varnish at several stages too in case you want to undo any of that.

THANKS, now I've got hours of research and practice ahead!

Seriously, they sound like great ideas. Got any pics you can share?

Dis86 · 17 Jun 2019 at 21:06

Note that these aren't mine, sadly i'm too crap at taking pics and the fact that all my tanks are dark grey so you can't see squat!

https://i.lensdump.com/i/Wo84NA.png

https://i.lensdump.com/i/Wo8Es5.png

https://i.lensdump.com/i/Wo8TgC.png

Note that I've never used the mud effects on the back of the rhino. Can't advise you on that one!

Werewolf · 24 Jun 2019 at 14:22

Those look really good nik

They're probably better than most of my stuff, despite the fact i've been painting again on and off for the last 15 years

As has been said washes (nuln and agrax especially) can do a great job of simulating soot/oil/general greasy dirt on metals

I'm in the process of painting some Titanicus stuf and it's amazing the difference a coat of nuln then agrax can make to get metal looking dirty/greasy without a massive amount of effort.