First PC build and...no boot...please help! (Q-Code 00, red CPU_LED on)

AdrianIscariot

AdrianIscariot

AdrianIscariot

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Hi guys,

Finally got all my components after months of planning and waiting. Built the PC over the course of 3 days, and followed guides etc to the letter. Powered the machine on and was greeted by a 00 code on the mobo's Q-Code display as well as a red CPU_LED lit. The fans spin up, but there's no beeps or display.

I tried a couple of basic fixes, then decided I'd need to pull everything out of the case (painful after 3 hours of cable management!) and build a barebones system on a cardboard box. I removed everything that wasn't essential to try to isolate the issue.

So on the box right now are:

Asus Maximus Hero mobo (rev 1.02)
8GB (2x4GB) G.Skill RAM
Intel 4670K CPU
H100i Cooler
Cooler Master V1000 PSU

Cables I have plugged in are the 2 mobo ones (that come together to form the 24-pin connector), 1 CPU one (one cable that splits into 2 banks of 4 pins) and 1 SATA one for the H100i.

In this set-up I continue to have the same problem - 00 code and the red CPU_LED lighting up. There are no beeps of any kind or display. The fans spin up, though.

I've spent a long time reading up on this fault, and it seems there are many potential solutions that have worked for others. So far, though, nothing has worked for me. Here is what I've tried:

Reseating the RAM - tried moving the 2 sticks from the red slots to the black ones. Then tried each stick individually in all 4 slots.

Reseating the CPU - couple of things to note here. First, when I removed the H100i I noticed that there was no paste on about 1/4 of the CPU. Second, as I had no paste myself after reseating the CPU and reapplying the H100i I had to re-use the initial paste. However I tightened down the corner that had no paste on first. I do have the stock cooler for the 4670K but no way to properly remove the thermal paste.

Cleared the CMOS. I removed the battery and left it out for around 30 minutes. I also used the jumpers to erase the CMOS RAM. I made sure pins 1+2 were connected again before I tried to boot next time.

Flashed the latest BIOS - found the latest driver from Asus, renamed it to M6H.CAP and used the mobo's flashback feature to upload it. I formatted the USB drive to FAT32 first, and held down the reflash button for a few seconds. It then started flashing, then the flashing sped up before stopping. Seems like that is the normal procedure. Although, the first time I tried this the LED on the reflash button didn't go out as I hadn't renamed the file.

I also noticed a couple of other things. First, I have a little tester that shows if a current is present (at least I think that's what it does - it's a little red LED inside a screwdriver, you place your thumb on one end and stick the pointy bit onto a cable, the LED lights if there's power). It lights up on the cable connecting the surge protector to the PSU, but NOT on any cable going from the PSU to a component.

Next, the CPU cable is a bit odd. It is one cable of 8 wires that splits into 2 banks of 4 pins. Both of these 4-pin banks are labelled 'CPU'. The motherboard has one block of 8 pins for the CPU power. Now, one block of 4 fits in perfectly to the right side of the 8-pin socket. However, the other block of 4 does not match up perfectly. It's hard to describe, but only 2 of the pins match as some of them are square, whereas others are straight on 3 sides but a curved shape on the other. The manual says a block of 8 can be used, OR a block of 4 in the right-most 4 slots. Which should I be using? Is this PSU actually compatible with this mobo?

I'm planning to take these 4 components to a local shop tomorrow to see if I can maybe swap in a new CPU etc to lock down the problem area. I don't know if this is possible, but I don't know what else to do.

If anyone can offer any advice - no matter what - please let me know. I'm gutted as I've waited so long for this, tried my best and spent a lot of time and effort on the build and I just can't get anywhere. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!
 
Reseating the CPU - couple of things to note here. First, when I removed the H100i I noticed that there was no paste on about 1/4 of the CPU. Second, as I had no paste myself after reseating the CPU and reapplying the H100i I had to re-use the initial paste. However I tightened down the corner that had no paste on first. I do have the stock cooler for the 4670K but no way to properly remove the thermal paste.
Click to expand...

When tightening down the cooler, you should do so in a diagonal pattern and tightening each screw/bolt slightly until they are all tight, but don`t over tighten . For instance, start at top right, turn the screw a few threads, then bottom left, top left and then bottom right. Turning each screw roughly the same amount of turns. This way you secure the cooler in an even fashion. Do not tighten one corner completely before tightening the others, as the cooler will not be even.

Have you also tried with the stock cooler?
And try and get some more Thermal paste.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. I did try to screw the cooler down as described, but failed epically it seems. I've also just noticed on the underside of the mobo that one of the standoffs for the cooler isn't flush so the rubber washer isn't in contact with the board. Weird thing is I can't seem to move it closer. It is the corner that's opposite the area with no paste on the CPU.

Would it hurt to leave the existing paste on there and give the stock fan a go? That too has thermal paste pre-applied.

Yes, both parts of the CPU cable will fit in, but I wasn't sure if that was safe? Wondered if they were meant to match up exactly, wouldn't want to put too much voltage to the wrong place etc!
 
Would it hurt to leave the existing paste on there and give the stock fan a go? That too has thermal paste pre-applied.
Click to expand...

Just clean the paste of the Cpu and attach the stock cooler.

Thanks for the advice guys. I did try to screw the cooler down as described, but failed epically it seems. I've also just noticed on the underside of the mobo that one of the standoffs for the cooler isn't flush so the rubber washer isn't in contact with the board. Weird thing is I can't seem to move it closer. It is the corner that's opposite the area with no paste on the CPU.
Click to expand...

I would remove all the H100 fittings and use the stock cooler. If all is well, try refitting the H100 and follow the installation guide. But wait until you have gotten some paste.

Just plug both Cpu 4 pin plugs into the socket, you`ll be fine.

I think the reason for the red light on the Cpu is due to a poorly fitted cooler.
 
Thanks for the help. I've now removed the H100i and tried the stock cooler. Unfortunately the issue persists.

I really have no idea now, I can only assume it's going to be an (expensive) hardware problem. I'm going to take the mobo, CPU, PSU and RAM to a store near me and see if they can identify the problem. I've spoken to a few people and apparently this is all part of the fun - they all report that not a single one of their builds booted properly first time and they averaged 1 DOA part per build. It's just so frustrating.

But thanks again for the tips - do let me know if there are any more, otherwise I'll report back once my local store have had a chance to look over it.
 
CPU led error usually points to bent CPU socket pins,an overtightened CPU cooler can also give the same error

I would check CPU socket pins but be careful not to damage any when looking
 
I hadn't a look, from what I've can seem nothing was bent but they're so small it's pretty hard to tell! I thought I'd installed the H100i incorrectly, but even the stock cooler returns the same problem.

Be interesting to see what the store find out tomorrow. Just hope it's nothing expensive, sunk all I had into this build and will be completely stumped if I need to replace anything!
 
AdrianIscariot said:
Next, the CPU cable is a bit odd. It is one cable of 8 wires that splits into 2 banks of 4 pins. Both of these 4-pin banks are labelled 'CPU'. The motherboard has one block of 8 pins for the CPU power. Now, one block of 4 fits in perfectly to the right side of the 8-pin socket. However, the other block of 4 does not match up perfectly. It's hard to describe, but only 2 of the pins match as some of them are square, whereas others are straight on 3 sides but a curved shape on the other. The manual says a block of 8 can be used, OR a block of 4 in the right-most 4 slots. Which should I be using? Is this PSU actually compatible with this mobo?
Click to expand...

I asked this exact question only a couple of days ago.

I too had 2 x 4 pin power connectors marked "CPU" from my PSU. However, just as you said:
1 x 2 square + 2 curved
1 x 4 curved

You should notice that the wires are the same colour.

See my thread for further details - I needed to connect both. But I'm AMD, and you're Intel, so I guess it could be different. Doubt it though - can't hurt to try. Being underpowered could prevent it booting, I'd have thought.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18557515


Hope this helps
 
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Thanks - you put it much more eloquently than me! It seems that I was okay to plug both sides of the cable in, which is a relief as I was worried I'd sent too much voltage to the wrong place etc. So at least I've not fried the motherboard.

But I have to say, I'm surprised at the amount of force needed to install/remove some of these components. The main ATX power connector, for example, is a complete pain to remove. When I had the system on a cardboard box I was worried I might damage some of the pins underneath when connecting that cable too. I guess they're more resilient than I think, though, otherwise we'd all have broken mobo's as soon as we tried to install anything!

No word yet on the system, hopefully I'll hear something tomorrow. After the elation of receiving all the bits and the joy of completing my first build (even paid a lot of attention to the cable management!) this is all such a bummer. Fingers crossed it'll be okay soon and I'll have my first taste of a real PC.

Thanks again for the help everyone.
 
Really hope it helps.

Nothing worse than flipping the power button and getting no response. Had it all too many times over the last 20 years. I get "the sweats" every time I work on a computer these days, I find the whole thing mega-frustrating and not enjoyable at all.
 
It's odd, I've spoken to a fair few people now and most agree that you have to be pretty lucky to get everything working as it should the first time around. I just hope that once I do get it back I won't run into any more serious set-backs.

Still no word from the store, hopefully I'll get some good news tomorrow. I'm trying to keep myself sane by coming up with a good fan configuration for my case in the meantime!
 
Heard back from the store today; my motherboard was faulty. Feel slightly vindicated that there was nothing I could have done to solve the issue and it wasn't a case of me messing something up. But also a bit miffed that now I'm going to have to wait until at least next weekend until I can try to build it again. Ah well, sure it'll be worth it in the end!
 
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