first time watercooling
- Thread starter Yurihyuga
- Start date
ok researched a bit more, I am pretty sure I got the blocks etc right only thing I might question is the tubing size and fittings.
is a triple rad overkill for just the CPU and GPU? or might I benefit more from a dual pump resovoir and having 2 dual rads each one dedicated to its own component to cool the water?
Or would a triple rad with one pump be more than enough, not to mention lighter on the pocket.
Was planning the loop to be:
Pump > Rad > CPU > GPU > Res
or
Pump > CPU > Rad > GPU > Res
is a triple rad overkill for just the CPU and GPU? or might I benefit more from a dual pump resovoir and having 2 dual rads each one dedicated to its own component to cool the water?
Or would a triple rad with one pump be more than enough, not to mention lighter on the pocket.
Was planning the loop to be:
Pump > Rad > CPU > GPU > Res
or
Pump > CPU > Rad > GPU > Res
Soldato
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While im no expert on water cooling i have looked into my self. My advise and im sure someone more seasoned can correct me if needed. You can save yourself a small fortune by using disilled water rather then coolent. 4 meters of hose seems a bit much? and i would say for a CPU & GPU loop a triple rad would be the min
what cpu are you cooling btw?
what cpu are you cooling btw?
Deffo stick with the triple rad then in that case, double rad will just not manage it.
4 metres of tubing is too much as well, could easily do with two even accounting for mistakes.
Would also recommend going with destilled or de-ionised water, MUCH much cheaper and doesn't stain your parts (if your using coloured coolant)
Also to note that sometimes the dye will seperate from the water mixture, gunk up (thats the technical term) and cause blockages, i know of a few people have this happen and a worst case scenario is shown over on XS forums.
Can't see your picture as work block images hosted on image hosting sites
4 metres of tubing is too much as well, could easily do with two even accounting for mistakes.
Would also recommend going with destilled or de-ionised water, MUCH much cheaper and doesn't stain your parts (if your using coloured coolant)
Also to note that sometimes the dye will seperate from the water mixture, gunk up (thats the technical term) and cause blockages, i know of a few people have this happen and a worst case scenario is shown over on XS forums.
Can't see your picture as work block images hosted on image hosting sites
Man of Honour
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Setting up a watercooled system is pretty easy providing you have done your homework first. So my advice is to read up as much as you can before you even buy your parts. What may suit one person may not suit your own needs so be clear what you want at the end of the day.
Most people have written blogs about there builds. Look for good tips and make plenty of notes. A little research time now will save you time and expense later.
Here's my build blog
http://www.huddysworld.co.uk/index....june-2008&catid=46:the-admirals-log&Itemid=59
been up and running since last summer.. never any problems since (touch wood)
Most people have written blogs about there builds. Look for good tips and make plenty of notes. A little research time now will save you time and expense later.
Here's my build blog
http://www.huddysworld.co.uk/index....june-2008&catid=46:the-admirals-log&Itemid=59
been up and running since last summer.. never any problems since (touch wood)
Associate
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- Rothesay
With your I7 920 i believe the consensis is to have a min a 240mm rad
with adding in your 5870 to the loop as well the 360mm rad you have chosen will be the bare minimum however a 480 mm rad would be better if you are sticking to a single loop.
if you go dual loops 1 for cpu and 1 for gpu then 2x 240mm rads would be ideal.
with adding in your 5870 to the loop as well the 360mm rad you have chosen will be the bare minimum however a 480 mm rad would be better if you are sticking to a single loop.
if you go dual loops 1 for cpu and 1 for gpu then 2x 240mm rads would be ideal.
Man of Honour
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oh and one consideration which is often overlooked. Upgrading CPUs/Graphics cards isn't as straight forward when you have a waterloop to consider, so it's not just a swap.
ok so looking good, between now and when I decide to do it, will be at the drawing board planning on where to put the stuff in the case. If I have the space the dual loop wouldn't be a bad idea.
Then of course I get the conscience saying in my head just get a H50 and run stock clock 5870 till some aftermarket coolers come in.
Then of course I get the conscience saying in my head just get a H50 and run stock clock 5870 till some aftermarket coolers come in.
Soldato
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Look into a universal gpu block which can be re-used if you upgrade the gpu later. A triple rad is easily enough for gpu and rad although temps may not be as low as you might like to think. Ultimately it comes down to how good the air-cooling of the water-cooling is.
Right personally i would go for this with that budget.
Watercool Backplate M4 (Socket LGA1366) £8.99
Heatkiller CPU Waterblock Revision 3 LT (Socket LGA1366) £49.99
EK HD 5870 Acetal Full Cover VGA Water Block £82.98
Laing DDC 1+ Ultra 18W 12V DC Pump or the 3.25 if you can find them £57.99
XSPC Dual DDC Bay Reservoir - Clear £32.99 upgrade path to 2 loops for future
XSPC RX360 120mm Radiator - Black £68.99
Then add your fittings and tubing also you will need some 45 or 90 degree adapters for the HK3.0 as they wont fit 3/4OD on without them.
Also use distilled water and put a couple of pure silver kill coils in the res this stops anything living in there
And ditch the black ice in favor of the XSPC as the blackice's are really restictive and need high static pressure fans. And talking of fans i suggest gentle typhoon 1850rpms
HTH
Ulti
Watercool Backplate M4 (Socket LGA1366) £8.99
Heatkiller CPU Waterblock Revision 3 LT (Socket LGA1366) £49.99
EK HD 5870 Acetal Full Cover VGA Water Block £82.98
Laing DDC 1+ Ultra 18W 12V DC Pump or the 3.25 if you can find them £57.99
XSPC Dual DDC Bay Reservoir - Clear £32.99 upgrade path to 2 loops for future
XSPC RX360 120mm Radiator - Black £68.99
Then add your fittings and tubing also you will need some 45 or 90 degree adapters for the HK3.0 as they wont fit 3/4OD on without them.
Also use distilled water and put a couple of pure silver kill coils in the res this stops anything living in there
And ditch the black ice in favor of the XSPC as the blackice's are really restictive and need high static pressure fans. And talking of fans i suggest gentle typhoon 1850rpms
HTH
Ulti
Associate
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Personally and having used both I would get a D5 pump.
As long as you are not changing the socket type to swap a water cooled CPU is not different, but then I only cool the cpu and have plenty of space/tubing to pull it out of the way for CPU changes (pleasure of a TJ-07 case!).
2 rads and 2 loops would be the best, but more complex with more things to go wrong. I would go for the triple rad, or a quad if you got space. Its now my opinion that should I change the rad again, I will get the biggest I can fit in as it will last the longest as components get hotter and hotter!
I to would recommend a GPU block not full cover unless you either have money to burn or will be keeping the gfx card for a decent length of time. Economics and all that. but its your call.
Like the idea of the res giving you the upgrade path for 2 loops later. I prefer a res to a T-line as its much easier and quicker to bleed the system I have found from experiance.
Hope this helps mate. Its good to think when placing rads, pumps etc try and think where the highest point is and fill levels where air could get trapped. A rad on the bottom with blocks and pump in the middle and res at the highest point would be the easiest to nearly full fill and bleed without even starting the pump! Where as a pump in the roof, then blocks and pump/res in the bottom will need a lot of shaking or tilting and you would nearly only be able to fill it with the pump running. Hope that makes sense mate?
As long as you are not changing the socket type to swap a water cooled CPU is not different, but then I only cool the cpu and have plenty of space/tubing to pull it out of the way for CPU changes (pleasure of a TJ-07 case!).
2 rads and 2 loops would be the best, but more complex with more things to go wrong. I would go for the triple rad, or a quad if you got space. Its now my opinion that should I change the rad again, I will get the biggest I can fit in as it will last the longest as components get hotter and hotter!
I to would recommend a GPU block not full cover unless you either have money to burn or will be keeping the gfx card for a decent length of time. Economics and all that. but its your call.
Like the idea of the res giving you the upgrade path for 2 loops later. I prefer a res to a T-line as its much easier and quicker to bleed the system I have found from experiance.
Hope this helps mate. Its good to think when placing rads, pumps etc try and think where the highest point is and fill levels where air could get trapped. A rad on the bottom with blocks and pump in the middle and res at the highest point would be the easiest to nearly full fill and bleed without even starting the pump! Where as a pump in the roof, then blocks and pump/res in the bottom will need a lot of shaking or tilting and you would nearly only be able to fill it with the pump running. Hope that makes sense mate?
I can't see anything there that needs a G3/8" to G1/4" adapter, as far as I know only thermochill use this thread.
Either D5 or DDC are fine, I'd probably buy the D5. EK sell an aftermarket top for either which nominally improves performance but more importantly lets you use normal barbs with it, I don't trust the built in plastic ones.
Which radiator isn't really the question, it's more which fans on which radiator. It's important to match them. The bigger the radiator, the slower the fans can turn. Alternatively the lower temperatures will be if you don't turn the fans down. Thin radiators (30mm thick) will need high static pressure fans at high rpm, thick radiators can remain efficient with quieter fans involved.
Finally I don't like bay reservoirs. I've not used one, but the design looks like it's the most likely part of the loop to fail and leak everywhere. No doubt this is paranoia on my part, but when a T line achieves much the same result I'm reluctant to use a reservoir.
Either D5 or DDC are fine, I'd probably buy the D5. EK sell an aftermarket top for either which nominally improves performance but more importantly lets you use normal barbs with it, I don't trust the built in plastic ones.
Which radiator isn't really the question, it's more which fans on which radiator. It's important to match them. The bigger the radiator, the slower the fans can turn. Alternatively the lower temperatures will be if you don't turn the fans down. Thin radiators (30mm thick) will need high static pressure fans at high rpm, thick radiators can remain efficient with quieter fans involved.
Finally I don't like bay reservoirs. I've not used one, but the design looks like it's the most likely part of the loop to fail and leak everywhere. No doubt this is paranoia on my part, but when a T line achieves much the same result I'm reluctant to use a reservoir.