hey all -
i saw the hits on my site pointing here, so i figured i could answer a few questions -
the panos on my site were shot w/ a 10mm full frame (not circular) fisheye on a nikon D300 or other non-full frame sensor nikon, this is the equiv fov of canon 15mm on 5Dm2 - both are very common setups for shooting 360x180 full equirectangular panos
you can use a longer lens, that just means more source photos, more chance for stitching errors, light change, etc but also greater resolution - gigapixel images are done this way
using a full frame fisheye like the nikon 10mm or canon 15mm (on full frame canon) means 6 images around, + 1 up & 2 down is pretty much all it takes, until you start shooting HDR bracketing sets......
on the 5Dm2 you can also use a 8mm sigma i believe for 4 shots around, or a modified nikon 10mm etc
2 or 3 shot panos w a circular fisheye are of lower quality than whats on my site, too much distortion to get good detail for architecture, and stenciling out moving objects is part of the fun
forget cheap glass & lens extension things on the 5Dm2, the resolution of that camera is brutal on cheap optics

better than nothing on a compact camera though, all my panos from before 2004 were shot that way
the
stereographic and
interactive panoramas on my site are all from the same fisheye source images and resulting equirectangular image, the source focal length is not a big factor here - anything from circular fisheye to prob about 30mm will work, (you could use any focal length, just means more pics) as the stitching apps take care of the distortion when warping the images to merge into the final pano
also, a proper spherical pano head like
nodal ninja is critical for this, as is having it properly set up for your camera/lens - the head rotates the camera around the lens nodal point (more correctly called the entrance pupil), not the sensor plane as was said above,
properly calibrating your camera/lens/pano head nodal point is crucial for good results
also make sure that everything is set to manual - white balance, exposure, & focus - none should change while shooting a pano
for stitching software, look at
ptgui (most popular),
autopano (easiest), &
hugin (freeware), all have their advantages etc, ptgui is what i use - avoid autodesk stitcher, it used to be a contender, but is currently hopelessly out of date
the little planet polar pano technique mentioned above is different than the stereographics on my site, ether ptgui, hugin, or a photoshop plugin called
flexify for that trick
here is an example from
my flickr page of the same image as equirectangular & stereographic -
otherwise, plenty of panoramic photography forums, tutorials and discussion online, panographers tend to be quite gregarious it seems...
http://www.panoguide.com/howto/
http://www.panoguide.com/forums/
http://www.nodalninja.com/forum/
http://www.autopano.net/forum/
http://www.tawbaware.com/forum2/
http://www.flickr.com/groups/equirectangular/
http://www.flickr.com/groups/stereographic/
http://www.vrwave.com/panoramic/photography/lens_database.html
http://wiki.panotools.org/Main_Page
http://www.rosaurophotography.com/html/technical0.html
http://michel.thoby.free.fr/
http://regaltips.com/
etc...
have fun
sam