Soldato
- Joined
- 4 Aug 2007
- Posts
- 22,432
- Location
- Wilds of suffolk
So in the new house we have ceiling mounted spots in 2x shower rooms, bathroom and kitchen.
All seem to be halogen spots, I think GU10 in kitchen and Mr16 elsewhere.
I say think because I have struggled to get the bulbs out so waiting on a decent sucker to help removal.
Previous occupants seem to have had issues as most of the ceilings around the spots are damaged, having had various levels of repair. All the ceilings have some repair which leads to some of the lights not being flush against the ceiling.
I want to replace them all (bulbs) at some point. Ideally with LED.
Believing the kitchen to be GU10 thats easy as they should be a straight swap, but with the issues on the ceiling I want to try to tidy up the installation.
I am at a loss as to the best approach. They have been filled (badly) but normal filler isn't that good I find in this situation without the fibre front the plasterboard gives.
Anyone got any ideas on a way to improve the ceiling?
Onto the Mr16. Seems quite a few people have issues with straight switch from halogen to LED due to the drivers normally not liking the load drop, so I am expecting to need to do a little more work here. I can't see anything that says I must use low voltage in the ceiling in these rooms, providing as they are the ceilings are over 2.25M from the floor. So could I use GU10 here as well?
My last issue. I have two spots in a display kitchen wall cabinet. These don't work so I assume the bulbs have blown, but they are low voltage halogen so its possible its the transformers that have blown. Each has its own on top of the kitchen cabinet. I forget the bulbs but they are similar to car sidelights.
Now I don't know but suspect that they have their own switch, as the kitchen has a double light switch, but one seems to do nothing, its the only thing that would make sense is that they are on a seperate circuit. Would there be any issue in order just to test this switch by unscrewing the transformer and using a block wiring in a normal 240v light, just to check the connection/switch?
I want to wire some under cabinet lighting so this would be ideal as I could buy a new driver and cabinet fittings and run those and some under cabinet leds from the same driver(s).
All help and advice appreciated
All seem to be halogen spots, I think GU10 in kitchen and Mr16 elsewhere.
I say think because I have struggled to get the bulbs out so waiting on a decent sucker to help removal.
Previous occupants seem to have had issues as most of the ceilings around the spots are damaged, having had various levels of repair. All the ceilings have some repair which leads to some of the lights not being flush against the ceiling.
I want to replace them all (bulbs) at some point. Ideally with LED.
Believing the kitchen to be GU10 thats easy as they should be a straight swap, but with the issues on the ceiling I want to try to tidy up the installation.
I am at a loss as to the best approach. They have been filled (badly) but normal filler isn't that good I find in this situation without the fibre front the plasterboard gives.
Anyone got any ideas on a way to improve the ceiling?
Onto the Mr16. Seems quite a few people have issues with straight switch from halogen to LED due to the drivers normally not liking the load drop, so I am expecting to need to do a little more work here. I can't see anything that says I must use low voltage in the ceiling in these rooms, providing as they are the ceilings are over 2.25M from the floor. So could I use GU10 here as well?
My last issue. I have two spots in a display kitchen wall cabinet. These don't work so I assume the bulbs have blown, but they are low voltage halogen so its possible its the transformers that have blown. Each has its own on top of the kitchen cabinet. I forget the bulbs but they are similar to car sidelights.
Now I don't know but suspect that they have their own switch, as the kitchen has a double light switch, but one seems to do nothing, its the only thing that would make sense is that they are on a seperate circuit. Would there be any issue in order just to test this switch by unscrewing the transformer and using a block wiring in a normal 240v light, just to check the connection/switch?
I want to wire some under cabinet lighting so this would be ideal as I could buy a new driver and cabinet fittings and run those and some under cabinet leds from the same driver(s).
All help and advice appreciated