Fixing curtain tracks to ceiling - double checking

Soldato
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I'm planning on ceiling mounting a curtain track tomorrow (Silent Gliss track) and wanted to check if I'm going about this the right way.

I'm assuming the ceiling construction will be the same as the ceiling in the living area (top floor flat) where there's 25mm of plasterboard with another 25mm of wood panel directly behind. I.e. no gap after the plasterboard for a spring toggle type of fixing. After the wood there's another panel of wood that I assume is the flooring of the loft space (that isn't mine legally).

With the living room, I mounted the blinds to the ceiling by drilling a narrow pilot hole through the plasterboard and wood and attached the brackets with long self tapping screws.

I'm assuming this is the best method for these curtain tracks? I don't think there's any fixings that would be required? Just as long as the screw is long enough to get good enough grip through the wood just beyond the plasterboard?
 
Why on earth would you drill a pilot hole and then use self tapping screws.
Because as long as the hole is just bigger than the minor diameter of the self tappers thread it can make putting them in much easier, especially over your head. Not strictly necessary but sometimes stops the wood splitting (although chipboard/mdf won't).
Your assumptions seem fair but drill that first hole and see if its as you think first as there is a chance its different on a different floor.
 
won't checking light fittings (or neighbours?) reveal how ceiling is constructed ?
self tapping if there were any cables sounds risky , but I guess the pilot hole/detector would reveal them.

(ceiling attach never looks very elegant imhop breaking that plain space ... but if you have no other option)
 
Why on earth would you drill a pilot hole and then use self tapping screws.

As said below, as long as the drill bit diameter is small it makes inserting the screw easier and the plasterboard is less likely to crumble. Although thtsth not a massive issue as the bracket covers a good area around the hole.

Because as long as the hole is just bigger than the minor diameter of the self tappers thread it can make putting them in much easier, especially over your head. Not strictly necessary but sometimes stops the wood splitting (although chipboard/mdf won't).
Your assumptions seem fair but drill that first hole and see if its as you think first as there is a chance its different on a different floor.

It actually was different, two of the three holes there was a substantial gap (I inserted some small diameter solder to test depth) so I used spring toggles on those.

won't checking light fittings (or neighbours?) reveal how ceiling is constructed ?
self tapping if there were any cables sounds risky , but I guess the pilot hole/detector would reveal them.

(ceiling attach never looks very elegant imhop breaking that plain space ... but if you have no other option)

Unfortunately no other option, there's french doors to the balcony and they're literally floor to ceiling. It's quite a complex setup too as there's substantially sized mechanical trickle vents that protrude off the door fascia and there's a sloped ceiling that overlaps where the door recess begins.
 
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