Flickering screen (Monitor or GFX card)

Associate
Joined
18 Feb 2009
Posts
1,356
Hi all

The last 2 days when i have gone to boot my pc up it has flickered really bad for like 5 mins and then it is fine for the rest of the time i use it until i restart it.
Im unsure as to whether it could be the gfx or monitor going knackered.

Monitor is Samsung Syncmaster 932GW(3 years old) and GFX is a Asus 5770 (2 years old)

I have no spare card to try it or monitor lying around although i can borrow one on monday if need be.

Just after any advice or programs to check gfx for faults etc

Thanks
 
Leave the computer on and turn the monitor off until its cooled down. Then start the monitor back up.

If it flickers again, it's the monitor, if not, GPU.
 
It's probably dodgy capacitors on the monitor's PSU. Samsung are well known for this problem, and having had it myself with a SM206BW I know it's a really easy fix and shouldn't cost any more than a couple of pounds to sort it :)

Take the back off the screen and look at the PSU board, there are probably anything up to 3 bulging/leaking caps on there.

All you need is some soldering skills (pretty easy tbh), the necessary tools (soldering iron, solder, screwdrivers) and the new capacitors (buy high temp low esr caps) and you're good to go.

Let me know if you need to know anything else, but I'll almost guarantee that's the problem with the screen.

Found this info on another site, which might help you taking it apart...
Hi. I just repaired a Samsung 932BW this Saturday. There are more than a few links on the internet about the power supply in this unit. I only needed the links to feel better about prying apart the smooth, shiny, screwless casing. The failure is nothing. Two capacitors (C109, C110) on the same rail fail at the same time because the manufacturer was too cheap to spend the extra 10-cents (Yes. $0.10 I am serious.) for a higher voltage capacitor with a lower ESR so that the massive ripple does not HEAT UP and kill the aluminum electrolytic capacitors.
Heat and ripple always kills capacitors, along with inverted polarity and too much voltage. The metal tops of the failed capacitors will be round or domed in shape from overheating. The cheap, failed Samsung capacitors are made by CapXon and deep purple in color. Never heard of them and don't want to. Might be quality, but Samsung did not reasearch for 15 minutes to find a capacitor with the proper specifications.

My two new capacitors came from Digikey and were $0.67 (yes) each. Shipping was US Postal 1st Class for $2.00. Support your Postal system. Took 3 days from MN to NJ. I knew that there was 20mm of clearance for the caps, so I chose these two Panasonic/ Matsu****a components with a 16V and not wimpy 10V rating. They also have the exact 5mm lead spacing, 5000 Hours at 105'C (never going to see that temp ever), and one of the lowest ESR's so the ripple current capability is 2.15 Amps. Excellent pieces. Digikey part # P12366-ND.
Description: CAP 1000uF 16V ELECT FM RADIAL Paste the part number in Google or the Digikey site and check it out. Yeah, not that exciting.

Check list: Digikey caps, solder iron, solder, two hands, bed, butter knife, Phillips screwdriver, wire cutters or scissors (cap leads are thin and soft, so use what you have). Paper towels and compressed air are optional. You may have a lot of dust inside the monitor depending on how old it is. NOT crucial to remove.

ANYWAY. You will need a basic Radio Shack or whatever basic solder iron and a few inches of rosin solder IF you are going to actually physically replace the capacitors. It is a single sided PCB, so it is easy. And the original leads are not bent over to cause a headache. Just heat one joint up at a time and rock the caps out alternating solder joints until it falls off the PCB. Even if you are not going to do the soldering - read on. You will need a butter knife to pry open the casing without damage. It will make popping almst cracking sounds. It is OK, no damage will occur. The monitor panel slips into the thin front surround/ bezel and the swithes are screwed to the back cover. Be careful the panel is somewhat heavy. The casing is nothing in mass compared to the panel. Be warned the panel is nearly loose inside along with the power supply (which can be seen where the power cord is inserted). The monitor should preferrably be face down while working on the casing. Find a bed to work on to prevent damage to the shiny casing and LCD panel. Watch out for the supply and video box sliding away from the panel - there is a flex cable with two tabs you has to press toward each other to release it. ZIF connector - cable will almost slip right out. Squeeze the shiny metal plate on the side tne panel to remove. The four wires that are for the upper and lower back lights (part of the panel) are the hardest on your fingernails to remove. You have to lift a small lever arm tab to unlock them and then pull. You will also need a medium to large standard Phillips (+) screwdriver and your fingers. The screwdriver is to remove the four screws that hold the power supply PCB (the larger one) to the silver metal supply box after disconnecting the switch connector, panel to box flex cable, and the four backlight wires. A cable connects to a smaller PCB (Video driver) to provide power. It is another lever tav connector - easy. Then remove the supply PCB. Hopefully you find dome topped capacitors. Hopefully it is C109 and C110. If not reply to this and I will post the Digikey part numbers for another excellent Panasonic cap. I do not expect any other caps in the 932BW to fail. They were actually sufficient in specification. Remove the caps. Replace the capacitors with the new ones. All electrolytics of this size have bands on the side of their casings denoting the negative (-) side. The PCB is labeled on BOTH sides for the correct polarity, or positive to positive and negative to negative. DO NOT get the polarity wrong or I hope you ordered 2 more capacitors (Only $0.67 !!). Place bezel face down, slip bottom of panel face down into bottom of bezel under the metal plate, place power supply box in center toward the pink and blue wires, and REASSEMBLE in reverse. Squeeze casing and pop it back together using circular fashion. Done. Re-enjoy your monitor.
 
Last edited:
I have a similar problem with my current but very old LG 19" widescreen. I have tried different cards and cables. It sounds like the monitor
 
Back
Top Bottom