Fluid recommendations

Admiral Huddy

Admiral Huddy

Admiral Huddy

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Joined
17 Feb 2003
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Chelmsford
I've been using blue Feser 1 over the years but I'm now tempted to use just deionised water and an additive.

I would like to stick to a blue theme but has anyone got any recommendations.

Thanks
 
Silver coil inhibits things growing in your loop.
Reason I suggested blue tubing is because you wanted to keep the blue theme in your OP, and adding dye to your loop will make it just as bad as using pre-dyed water like Feser, which is what I thought you were trying to avoid.
 
oh I see your point. So its the dye that can be detrimental not the product [Feser]?

I might have to stick with the ready made then.. PrimoChill ICE looks pretty good.
 
I use distiller water and a silver coil in my res along with some blue primochill primoflex lrt tubing. Works a treat :)
 
Admiral Huddy said:
oh I see your point. So its the dye that can be detrimental not the product [Feser]?

I might have to stick with the ready made then.. PrimoChill ICE looks pretty good.
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No... its the dye in the ready made products thats causing the clumping etc. Especially if its UV dye, that seems to be worse than anything. Doesn't matter if you add the dye yourself or if its added by the manufacturer.

So Feser/Primo whatever, thats the concern currently. The state of the art at the moment is to use distilled/deionised with a few drops of ptnuke (biocide) and a silver coil, then use coloured tubing if you want that effect.

Now. How big a problem this issue with dye is I am not sure, I used Feser green for ages, and then when I was switching from 775 to 1366 I checked in my CPU block and it had that green/grey gloop on the pins. So now I use water/ptnuke/coil in all my new builds.

Still got one old banger on Feser green but am going to clean her out and switch over when I do some maintenance on it in a few days time.
 
I'm wondering, why use PT Nuke AND Silver coil. Are they not suppose to give the same effect? :confused:

Distilled water and silver coil IMO, combined with UV tubing.
 
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I think the theory is there's nothing wrong with belt and braces or that PTNuke kills anything currently in there and the coil is a longer term solution.

Hey anything to stop the fungus :)
 
It'll be interesting to see how much staining you find you've got when you drain. Depending how bad it has gone off, trying to get rid of the staining is going to be your biggest problem, unless you've been lucky with your feser.
 
Never use anti freeze. It’s not made for water cooling system. It will not only destroy your rubber seals but all so can eat away at the bonding of the reservoir causing it to fail and leak.

I disagree with Biffa (not offence by the way) as its not "DYE" that clumps of causes build up its actually inhibitors that brake down in injection blocks and this cause's a bio build up of film as the partials brake down (separate) when being put under high pressure in water blocks. Then the dye doing its job will then colour the slime as it’s supposed to do giving the effect that the dye has caused this in the first place which is incorrect. If look under a microscope you will see the mess is actually the inhibitor.

Dye never clumps up and never causes any bio build up in a water cooling system. The only thing dye can do is go back to powder form and there is not the much used in colouring the liquids and you can test this by taking any small amount of dye and heating it to a high temperature and evaporating the liquid it is based in. what will be left over is just powder residue and any other chemicals that were used when making the dye.

Dyes how ever do stain system but this is the users fault for not fully understanding how dyes work because once the PH balance of the liquid changes and becomes acidic this is when dyes will then start doing what they are supposed to. This is they will seep into the parts of the water cooling system giving the effect that it has stained. Because everyone just pours in there liquids and forgets it simple as that.

However this can easily be fixed by simple cleaning out you system properly with the correct tools. Dye stain can be removed from a water cooling loop in little under 1.5 hrs with NO scrubbing or hard work involved.

A certain brand name Pre mixed liquid does have this problem and the reason for that is probably when it was first created (its been around a long time) was never tested in modern day injection blocks so there for the mixture they are using needs to be re tested. Some thing that also happens is the shelf life of a premixed liquid is only so long and once that product has reached the end of its shelf life it then starts to brake down and separate (much like milk does when left out in heat). This is some thing once again people dont consider and understand.
 
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Biffa said:
Yes use deionised with ptnuke (2-3 drops per litre) and a silver coil.
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I disagree because of the fact the PT nuke and Kill coil effectively work against each other.

One or the other not both. As we have seen here, it erodes tubing casuing it to cloud.

I will choose pre-mix always however those that are still concerned about dyes clogging, staining their loop etc you can get clear fluid which IMO is a lot less hassle and easier to maintain.
 
I'v been using Thermochill Ec6 Clear for nearly 4 months, no problems at all, still as clear as the day l filled my loop.
 
mlwood37 said:
I disagree with Biffa (not offence by the way) as its not "DYE" that clumps of causes build up its actually inhibitors that brake down in injection blocks and this cause's a bio build up of film as the partials brake down (separate) when being put under high pressure in water blocks. Then the dye doing its job will then colour the slime as it’s supposed to do giving the effect that the dye has caused this in the first place which is incorrect. If look under a microscope you will see the mess is actually the inhibitor.
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Holy thread revival batman! :D

Try picking a more recent thread, as you'll see I've been advocating the same things you just said about it not being the dye that causes the blockages rather other additives in the premix.

However dyes do stain your kit. Yes you can clean it but personally I'd rather just use coloured tubing and save myself the hassle.

NathWraith said:
I disagree because of the fact the PT nuke and Kill coil effectively work against each other.

One or the other not both. As we have seen here, it erodes tubing casuing it to cloud.

I will choose pre-mix always however those that are still concerned about dyes clogging, staining their loop etc you can get clear fluid which IMO is a lot less hassle and easier to maintain.
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Agree Nat, again I stopped advocating both a while back, it was only when I found the mess in my blocks that I went looking for alternatives and the reccomendation at the time was both, since then we've all seen what PT can do to some tubing, not all mind but some. I have no clouding in the system I have both in but then the tubing is black and silver solid colour :)

But yes kids don't use both, in fact don't use PTNuke at all just use a silver coil :)

However the "I will choose pre-mix always" stance is an interesting one, a commercially sensible one sure perhaps, but considering that the only thing you get from pre-mix is umm.. pretty colours, why bother with clear pre-mix when plain ole distilled/deionised and a silver coil is as good if not better?

YMMV of course and I know you have had better results with some premixes in your system than others.

What OcUk should do I reckon is get commercial with Distilled and package white label own brand OcUk Distilled and silver coils :)

I'd probably lean more towards using a dye bomb in distilled/deionised than premix now if I wanted colour but thats just me.

Coloured reservoirs now thats a good way to go! XSPC could make coloured acrylic to match their coloured tubing! :)
 
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