China (Beijing) is a culinary adventure at the best of times. You've no idea what you're getting half the time, what's written on the menu and what you get is your next best guess. You can't even rely on the pictures because they're made of ink and lies.
Some items are just beyond stupid. Like a soup with a candle underneath so it doesn't get cold, EVER, it's literally boiling ****ing hot throughout. While you try to eat gristly chicken with chopsticks and getting third degree burns in the process.
Some are disconcerting. They sell little kebabs in some bars, I wanna say kwai sticks? something along those lines. The menu will list the possible choices:
- chicken
- pig
- cow
- meat
Meat? What meat? Why list the others and not that? And why is it cheaper than the rest? This is very suspicious. It was probably dog, but honestly no idea.. it tasted ok though.
The worst though is an example of the food subverting expectations. I felt like I hadn't eaten properly in about 3 days, owing to the surprise nature of every meal, but I had a gooood feeling about tonight. We were off to a fancy Szechuan restaurant with some of my hosts more western friends. Ohhh yesss, this is gonna be great! Lots of choices on the menu, none of them say simply "meat", there are translations for every dish, and big glossy pictures of delicious food. One of them catches my eye, Szechuan style duck stir fry. It looks amazing. Big pieces of duck breast laid out on top, all the veggies, with a three chili out of five rating... perfect. I point at the picture while grinning at the hostess, "Neiga" ('that') I say - smooth, impress her with the lingo - off she goes. I sink a couple of beers, we all talk, and I excitedly wait for my meal.
Now the food is arriving. First it's a few small dishes here and there.. and then.. there it is.. la piece de resistance. On the table she places the platter of bisected duck heads, chilis, peppercorns, peppers and peanuts. The heads are cut straight down the middle, beak and all, like they'd accidentally run into a band saw. My disappointment is immeasurable, my day is ruined. I stare at the heads and look around the table. The western guy I was staying with (who lived in Beijing) just looked at it, then at me and shrugged, "China." he says. sigh. I wonder if this is just something that's not translated correctly, so I ask my friend (who speaks Mandarin but doesn't read it very well) to speak to the waitress and ask her if, in Mandarin, it specifies that it's duck heads. He calls her over and explains the situation. You can see that she doesn't really understand what he's getting at and then she turns to look at me like there's a village in England somewhere that's missing its idiot. While something clearly got lost in translation, you can understand contempt in any language, and pointing at the beaky heads staring back at us she says, as if she were talking to a two year old, "LOOK! it's DUCK!"
With what was left of my dignity, I poke around and pick up a head by the beak with my chopsticks and try a bit of tongue and cheek, there's a joke in there somewhere, and while I might have been able to muddle through this grisly scene from avian Auschwitz I realise I can't. Not because of the heads, no no, but because the meal is 50% chilis and peppercorns. It would have defeated a 10-pint-in Glaswegian curry house champion who was looking to up his vindaloo game. This wasn't food, it was chemical warfare and my eyes were sweating just looking at it. It was so hot I swear the platter was a different shape when it left the table. I eventually left the restaurant, hungry and defeated, and made for the nearest bar - Hello barkeep, 3 of your finest kwai sticks, please. What kind? Meat.