Gabon - "Africa's Last Eden"

Caporegime
Joined
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I did a two week trip to Gabon, Central Africa over Easter. It's not a well travelled part of the world but I can now safely say people are missing out. It's 'better' known as the land of the surfing Hippo and for elephant and buffalo walking along the beach.

If you like Safaris this is the place to go, especially if you've done the more traditional safaris in East and Southern Africa. There are no 4x4 drives here, feet only, which gives a totally different perspective of the animals you see. We spent two weeks walking through forest and along beaches, with the occasional time in a boat, listening for animals and tracking them through the bush.

Crouching 5m away from a group of elephant, with just the wind direction for protection is such a great experience, as is the memorable experience of being charged and having to run...

You really have to work for your animals here, unlike east Africa and being in a vehicle, animals will run when they see, smell or hear a human, however with trained guides there are still plenty of chances to see wildlife. We didn't however see any Gorillas, which we had hoped to see. We did see plenty of elephant, buffalo, antelope, hippo, monkeys and a fleeting glimpse of a chimp as well as the usual smaller creatures.

The big selling point for me was the fact its one of the few places in the world where you can see big African mammals on the beach, just after seeing them in the forest, a totally different experience from the usual savannah and scrub I've seen them in before.

Just getting to the parks is an adventure in itself, flights are unreliable so road transport is the only way, except most of the roads are dirt and sand. There were long trips between locations but that also gave us some stunning photo opportunities too. Best of all, Gabon is one of the safest countries in Africa, which means even though you will almost certainly be the only tourists you see, you won't have to worry about safety, or really even theft, unlike other central African countries like the DRC and Congo next door.

It's stupid expensive if you go on an organised tour with a western company but it can be done far more reasonably if you contact an NGO in country.

Anyway, enough waffle. First some wildlife. I came back with over 3000 photos but I've tried to distil it right down, we saw a heck of a lot more than this...

First off, a few birds

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Birds by Amp34, on Flickr

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Vulture by Amp34, on Flickr

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Weaver bird by Amp34, on Flickr

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Woodland Kingfisher by Amp34, on Flickr
There were loads of kingfishers around (I think there are 4 different types). I managed to get a few good photos of a couple but I actually like this one, even if it's not a great photo. It flew off before I could recompose without the giant piece of wood in the way... Woodland Kingfisher

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Single Bee Eater by Amp34, on Flickr
We stayed in a small community run guesthouse in the small village of Sette Cama, just on the southern border of Loanga National Park. On one side is the sea and hundreds of km of beach and the other a huge Lagoon. It took me two days to get these Bee Eaters, luckily they had a favourite perch.

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Bee Eaters with a Catch by Amp34, on Flickr

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Wading by Amp34, on Flickr
Around the lagoon were a number of smaller rivers, bounded by Mangroves on both sides. Occasionally there were small marsh areas that attracted lots of wildlife

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Pelican Flying by Amp34, on Flickr

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Pelican on a Log by Amp34, on Flickr
There was a group of about 20 pelicans living at the end of a spit where the lagoon emptied into the Atlantic.
 
On to the Elephants.

As usual they are by far the easiest to see and photograph. You can sneak up on them easily as they have a great sense of smell but poor hearing and sight. You just need make sure you are down wind of them and you can stand a few metres away and watch as they do what they do.

The first place we went was the Makalaba Doudou national park where we were hoping to see gorillas (they are not habituated - yet). Unfortunately we didn't see any but we did manage to see the forest elephant in its densely wooded home. The forest Elephant is about half the size of the Savannah elephant and apparently the ones here are more aggressive than the ones we saw later on in our trip at Loanga National Park.

Unfortunately, clear sightings are rare and fleeting, we did have one chance, but I was standing in the wrong place, my GF two paces to my right got a really good photo of the elephant coming out onto the track. I on the other hand was "protected" by a tree and got a rubbish photo of it's front end. the back end when it saw us and scarpered came out better though...:p

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Forest Elephant by Amp34, on Flickr

We subsequently got chased through the forest by quite possibly the same elephant...:o

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Elephant in Hiding by Amp34, on Flickr
Loanga National park had far more open forest and also beach/river so there was a bit more success in my photography. This one was eating lagoon facing brush.

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Alert Elephant by Amp34, on Flickr
For the previous photo we were on a boat, for this one we were sneaking through the scrub watching two elephants. This one saw us and we had to disappear sharpish. It was about 10 metres away at the time.

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Jurassic Park moment by Amp34, on Flickr
Shortly after we had a Jurassic Park moment. The shrubs were shaking a few metres in front of us and out popped another elephant, luckily he was more relaxed and we made a controlled exit.

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Elephant knocking down fruits from a Palm by Amp34, on Flickr
When walking along the beach one early afternoon we saw an elephant in the distance. This guy was rather partial to the fruit of the palm that grows on the edge of the sand. he would put his head up, arch his back and shake the tree, then duck as the fruit (like mini coconuts) fell off.

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Elephant on the Beach by Amp34, on Flickr

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Elephant and Calf by Amp34, on Flickr
Later that day, just before dusk, as we were walking home we saw a small group of elephant coming out of the treeline to eat the grass on the edge of the beach. These were taken from about 5 metres or less as they walked past us (we were crouched behind a sand bank). This mother gave us a precautionary sniff as she went past.

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Elephant by Amp34, on Flickr
Another one from the same group.
 
Gabon is a nice country, although I'd class it as west Africa rather than central. I've spent a few years working on the coast, including Libreville. Nice pics!

Gamba, Port Gentil or offshore? After going there I'm half tempted to apply to Shell...

I get the impression it's a little from column B and a little from column B, it's technically central but I'd agree it's more west.

Did you get to see much of the country when you were there?
 
Thanks. All the above were taken with a D7000 and 120-300 f/2.8 OS with the occasional use of a 1.4 TC. I also had a Nikon 17-55 and Tokina 11-16. I got myself a little Mefoto Roadtrip tripod for this trip too.

Blooming knackering carrying it all around for hours on end in hilly forest, with extremely high humidity and temps of around 30C! Worth it though as the lights it let in was very useful in keeping the ISO to 2000 or below in the forest.:D

More animals to come tonight and then some other genres after.
 
Port Gentil. I was based primarily in Guinea but spent some time in quite a few of the ports up and down the coast. Didn't get to see as much of the Gabon hinterland as I'd have liked, as all holidays were used up to come back to Europe.

I saw a lot of in interior in Guinea though - what a difference. Very little wildlife in comparison.

I think most of west Africa is like that now, it's very sad and one of the reasons I chose Gabon, outside of the Congo it's one of the few places with a fairly abundant amount of forest wildlife left. There are still a fair few areas where humans haven't set foot for hundred of years (apart from potentially a few pygmies) and are still pristine forest. Still loads of illegal bushmeat hunting though as I'll show later.
 
A few more wildlife photos.

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Buffalo Wading by Amp34, on Flickr
African Forest Buffalo love the marshy/swampy areas

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Buffalo in the water by Amp34, on Flickr

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African Forest Buffalo by Amp34, on Flickr
You can also see them in the forest, but they scarper pretty quick. I managed to get off about three shots before it ran off, unfortunately focusing in dark conditions with lots of foliage in the way can be hit and miss. Miss in this case... :p This is the best shot I managed to get of one in the forest...

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Hippo in a river by Amp34, on Flickr
Like the rest of Africa there are Hippo, however I found them far more nervous than other places I'd been. They would disappear under the water when you got within about 50m of them, coming up occasionally for breath.

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Hippo in the Lagoon around Sette Cama by Amp34, on Flickr
There is a group of about 12 that live in the rivers and lagoon in this area. Occasionally they can be seen in the surf, hence the "surfing hippos".

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Lizard Sunbathing by Amp34, on Flickr

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Rainbow Lizard by Amp34, on Flickr

Unfortunately it's not all good news. While not as bad as many other parts of Africa, mainly due to the small population, bushmeat is still a staple diet in the country. You can see dead monkeys and antelope hanging at the side of roads and also in the local markets. Here is a highly protected slender snout crocodile (left) and a Sitatunga (antelope-right) in the main market of one of the big towns.

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Bushmeat at Lambarene Market by Amp34, on Flickr

Local NGOs have been working with the police and those selling bushmeat to educate them on the dangers and it does appear to be working. We were told the amount of bushmeat being sold (at least openly) in the market has reduced significantly in the last year or so.

There is also an issue with bycatch

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Dead Aubry's Turtle by Amp34, on Flickr
This is an Aubrey turtle, probably caught by fishermen while long lining, it was just dumped on the ground next to the boats.

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Dead Turtle by Amp34, on Flickr

We're not quite sure what happened to this one we found on the beach in the capital, Libreville. It could have been a propeller or it could have been natural.

On a more positive note... Here is a live Red Cap Mangabey and a little baby

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Red Cap Family by Amp34, on Flickr

That's the selection of wildlife photos I'm going to post on here, there are way too many more to post...

Next I'll stick up some photos from our travel and the towns and other random ones.
 
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Good collection of pics! I definitely need to get my ass out there sometimes :D

I need some more colourful birds to photograph than what you find here lol

Yeah, it's always amazing seeing just how colourful birds in other countries are, although I guess our kingfisher (if you can find one) does rival most of them!

It's definitely worth a visit. Whether you do the more traditional safari or the more strenuous one depends on what you want to do (or do both, they are both very different).
 
As I mentioned before, many of the roads are not tarmacked, for some routes a 4x4 is essential, even a heavily loaded one...

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On the Way to Gamba by Amp34, on Flickr

While there is significant effort going in to upgrade the roads some roads are little more than swamps. How do you get through deep water (over the bonnet) without a proper snorkel? remove the air filter and attach a tube directly to the intake of course...

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How to make a snorkell - African Style 2 by Amp34, on Flickr

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How to make a snorkell - African Style by Amp34, on Flickr

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Landy by Amp34, on Flickr

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Schools Out by Amp34, on Flickr
The town of Gamba is essentially "Shell Town", with the major oil company being the major employer in the area. It's a lot more prosperous than other areas of the country

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Gamba Street by Amp34, on Flickr
There were still some derelict features though which are always good to photograph

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Gamba House by Amp34, on Flickr

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Watercraft by Amp34, on Flickr
Our stop in Gamba was only short, as we were on our way to Loanga National Park, a 2 hour boat ride north

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Lagoon Village by Amp34, on Flickr
We passed a number of small villages

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Sette Cama Jetty by Amp34, on Flickr
And arrive at Sette Cama, our base for the national Park.
 
That's a decent amount of weight - thats some good going!

I did some trekking up Snowdon recently with my D600,Tokina 17mm and the Nikon 28-70mm,and I thought that was bad enough slung round my neck,LOL!!

I am definitely Captain Unfit,LOL! :p

It worked out at about 10kg when water was added. I had the 120-300 over the shoulder on a Blackrapid strap and the rest in my bag. Always fun lugging that weight around for 6 hours...:p

Wow dude, them pictures are awesome. Good job!

Thanks. :) Any particular ones you like best? Always interested to see what others like.
 
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