Global Knife Sharpening

Soldato
Joined
1 Oct 2006
Posts
14,335
Hello,

Our knives are long overdue a sharpening, and I've not done it before.

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I presume this is a waterstone, doesn't look like the one of their site as it's about 10 years old.

The knives are long overdue, so do I need to start at 240 grit then finish off on the finer side?

Cheers in advance. :)
 
If you don't know what your doing you'd be far better using something like a minosharp water sharpener.

How would anybody ever learn anything if they didn't have a go after understanding the technique? It's not like he's guessing, he's asking for advice in here first. Not very helpful imo.

Unfortunately I can't help either but came in here to see what was recommended. I'll follow with interest.
 
Yep, I'd rather work out how to do it properly with the tools I've got.

It seems a logical enough process, all about getting the angle right and even. I'd just like some input from the more knowledgeable folk who frequent this subforum. :)
 
The knives are long overdue, so do I need to start at 240 grit then finish off on the finer side?
Before you do anything else, that whetstone needs soaking in water for at least an hour.

The 240-grit side is where you ought to start, although it's a pretty coarse grade and will take a fair bit of metal from your blades. Just go careful with it.

The 1000 grit is your finishing side, although in normal terms that would be the side you'd start on and then move to something around the 2000-3000 mark. But as it's all you've got, it'll have to do.

Global Knives should have a different bevel to most other blades, so the angle of attack is around 10-15° instead of 20-25° with most Western-style blades.

- Anyway, once the stone has been thoroughly soaked, place it on a moist tea-towel that you can afford to knacker (it will get ruined with the residue from the stone) and align the short end of the stone parallel with the edge of the surface that you're working on.

- Then grasp the knife in both hands with the blade pointing away from your body and rest the heel of the knife on the far edge of the stone, holding the blade at your desired angle - something like these might come in handy at this point.

- Using a very even pressure and a relatively light touch, slowly drag the knife blade towards you down the stone whilst you move the blade across the stone so that you reach the tip as you come to the end of the stone nearest to you.

- Lift the knife off the stone, place it back up the top and repeat the same motion as before. A firm, even motion is key here - don't press the blade into the stone.

- As you keep swiping the knife down the stone, you'll start to see the film of 'dirty' water accumulate alone the blade. Don't be tempted to wipe it off - this is the stuff that is sharpening the edge for you and will drip off and ruin that tea-towel the whetstone is sat on.

- Repeat the process a few times (counting each stroke as you go) and then carefully check the opposite side of the blade with your fingernail for the burr that will start to form.

- Carry on going if you can't feel it, but if you can it's time to flip the blade over and repeat the sharpening process on the other side - I'd start with the heel of the blade on the bottom of the stone nearest to you and work away from your body here.

- Go through the sharpening process for the same number of strokes as you carried out on the first side of the blade, then wipe the residue off with a clean cloth (this one will get ruined as well).

- Now re-soak the whetstone for 10-minutes or so before repeating the process on the 1000-grit side.

Three points to mention about using a whetstone:

- Keep it wet - don't be afraid to dribble some water over it during the sharpening process if you feel it's starting to dry out.

- Be careful - go slowly and steadily and don't be tempted to rush things or take short-cuts.

- Clean up afterwards. Leave the stone to dry out before wrapping it in the tea-towel you'd been resting it on and storing it somewhere safe.
 
Depends how worn down the blade is. But yes, if it's been a long while, then perhaps 240 is a good place to start. Regarding angle, it varies from knife to knife. Either look up your specific knife you're sharpening, or you can found out by 'feeling it' (not with your hand!).

This guys videos are pretty helpful. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlOAQffPbc8
 
how dull are the knives? reason i ask is that 240 will take off a lot of material so if they arent that dull i would just use the 1000 size and then maybe think about getting a finer grit stone for finishing. in my experience of using waterstones if the knife just needs a little touch up i use a 6000 grit that gives it a razor edge and a mirror finish. if they need a profile reground then my 800 does fine and if they need chips grinding out then your 240 would be ok to use. And you wont get as good a cutting edge from the 1000 as you will from the 6000. A well sharpened blade using 6000 grit plus will be able to run through a unsuported sheet of paper with little or no resistance (thats the test i use to tell if my knives are sharp enough.

If you are sharpening something like a G2 with a blade of about 5cm deep at the thick end then the blunt end of the knife will be about 1cm from the stone. you should be able to hear when the blade is at the correct angle by the sound it makes when it slides accross the stone it sort of clicks into place.
 
How would anybody ever learn anything if they didn't have a go after understanding the technique? It's not like he's guessing, he's asking for advice in here first. Not very helpful imo.

Unfortunately I can't help either but came in here to see what was recommended. I'll follow with interest.

It's REALLY easy to not only sharpen the knife poorly but also to loose the bevel which is very difficult to correct. It's not exactly something you learn simply by following instructions but more by doing very regularly.

It's all very well encouraging him to 'learn' but global knives are some of the most expensive you can buy so I was trying to save the pain of very expensive mistakes when for £22 he could buy something that was designed specifically for global knives and can be done easily and accurately and opposed to having a 'go' and fudging 100's of £'s worth of blades.
 
Glitch - If this place had a thanks button I'd be hammering it now, exactly what I was after. Thanks! :)

Thanks for the other responses chaps, very much appreciated!
 
It's REALLY easy to not only sharpen the knife poorly but also to loose the bevel which is very difficult to correct. It's not exactly something you learn simply by following instructions but more by doing very regularly.

It's all very well encouraging him to 'learn' but global knives are some of the most expensive you can buy so I was trying to save the pain of very expensive mistakes when for £22 he could buy something that was designed specifically for global knives and can be done easily and accurately and opposed to having a 'go' and fudging 100's of £'s worth of blades.

Whilst its true that you can ruin knives if you are ham fisted with a water stone, the Minosharp etc sharpeners will never give as good an edge as a decent set of stones, I know because I have both.
 
Glitch - If this place had a thanks button I'd be hammering it now, exactly what I was after. Thanks! :)
You're very welcome.

It's a hard thing to describe in text, but hopefully you get the general gist of things. At the very least that should help you understand the demonstration video in Razor-BladE's post a little better.
 
I gave up on my whetstone, well that and it's got a big crack in it. And just bought a KE198 electric knife sharpener, best results so far and foolproof.

The minosharp ceramic wheels are ok, but nothing more than that. And when the wheels get coated with metal, sharpening is reduced and it's very difficult to clean off due to the shape.

As said above, be careful with the 240 grit, if you get the angle wrong and get a bit enthusiastic then you could knacker it and need to get it properly sharpened again. Globals have an edge between 10-15 degrees.
 
Then grasp the knife in both hands with the blade pointing away from your body and rest the heel of the knife on the far edge of the stone, holding the blade at your desired angle - something like this might be useful http://www.amazon.co.uk/Global-Sharpening-Guide-Rails-Set/dp/B0006A03V0

I have these and they're not useful really, as the angle they hold your knife at depends on how wide your knife is. So you can't consistently achieve the correct 10-15 degree angle, they also mark your knives due to material from the stone getting stuck inside. Also, they end up getting rubbed up and down the stone at the same time as the knife so end up all scraped. Much better to learn by hand, but much more difficult.
 
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