How’s it going. I have just had a new ideal logic max 30c installed and it’s just plugged into the mains.i have no wiring for thermostats noting. And I have the new Google nest 3rd gen. Can I just add a supply to it and just connect the openTherm is it that easy ?
Google nest thermostat
- Thread starter cnta
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Soldato
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have you looked up the manual?
What is the current setup? Just a boiler and you set the temp on there for the whole house or do you have a room thermostat currently? If so, is it a hard wired thermostat?
Ok... You need to wire the Heatlink into the boiler. That's the square, white, flat box.
When you open the connection section you'll see 13 ports. You'll only need 4.
From left to right;
N - connect this to mains Neutral
L - connect this to mains Live
You can feed the L and N from.the L and N off the boiler mains connection - just run a wire from the L and N of the boiler to these.
1 - Ignore
2 - connect this with a short piece of wire to port L. This will provide live to the switched live of port 3
3 - this need to be connected to the switched live on your boiler. This is what tell the boiler that you are requesting heat and turns the heating on
This will power the Heatlink. When your thermostat calls for heat, it activates the Heatlink and connects live to port 3 in the Heatlink which then puts power to the "call for heat" on the boiler and your heating turns on.
Plug your thermostat part into a wall socket and pair it up with your Heatlink.
Now the above is the very basic and simple setup. It just uses the learning Thermostat part of the setup to turn the heat on and off.
If you want to use Opentherm, that's what the OT1 and OT2 ports on the Heatlink are for. Apologies but I ain't 100% sure how to wire that up but it's likely a case of connecting your Opentherm ports on your boiler to the OT ports on the Heatlink.
Edit - I should add that the above is a template installation. Without knowing the wiring connections on your boiler, it's hard to give an exact connection diagram
When you open the connection section you'll see 13 ports. You'll only need 4.
From left to right;
N - connect this to mains Neutral
L - connect this to mains Live
You can feed the L and N from.the L and N off the boiler mains connection - just run a wire from the L and N of the boiler to these.
1 - Ignore
2 - connect this with a short piece of wire to port L. This will provide live to the switched live of port 3
3 - this need to be connected to the switched live on your boiler. This is what tell the boiler that you are requesting heat and turns the heating on
This will power the Heatlink. When your thermostat calls for heat, it activates the Heatlink and connects live to port 3 in the Heatlink which then puts power to the "call for heat" on the boiler and your heating turns on.
Plug your thermostat part into a wall socket and pair it up with your Heatlink.
Now the above is the very basic and simple setup. It just uses the learning Thermostat part of the setup to turn the heat on and off.
If you want to use Opentherm, that's what the OT1 and OT2 ports on the Heatlink are for. Apologies but I ain't 100% sure how to wire that up but it's likely a case of connecting your Opentherm ports on your boiler to the OT ports on the Heatlink.
Edit - I should add that the above is a template installation. Without knowing the wiring connections on your boiler, it's hard to give an exact connection diagram
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Associate
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Nest instructions are terrible.
On Ideals to the right of the L N E is a red link remove that and the right hand terminal is where the switch live needs to go. I’m 99% sure its the right hand terminal its been a while since ive done an Ideal. If you want to double check with the power on and the link removed it should show no voltage.
On Ideals to the right of the L N E is a red link remove that and the right hand terminal is where the switch live needs to go. I’m 99% sure its the right hand terminal its been a while since ive done an Ideal. If you want to double check with the power on and the link removed it should show no voltage.
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I didn't wire up the OT on my boiler but that's only because the boiler in in the kitchen and all the Ch goes through a Wiring Centre under the stairs where the zone valves etc all are.
I think its just a matter of wiring the OT ports to the OT ports on the boiler and removing the switched live and jumper wire i.e. only L/N and OT1/OT2 are used on the heatlink and its the OT1 ports that switch the boiler on/off.
I think its just a matter of wiring the OT ports to the OT ports on the boiler and removing the switched live and jumper wire i.e. only L/N and OT1/OT2 are used on the heatlink and its the OT1 ports that switch the boiler on/off.
Soldato
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Such a shame to have both an Opentherm thermostat and boiler and not use the feature. Theres no reason not to unless you have weather compensation attached to the boiler instead. And yes the Ideal Logics do both.
If your installer took two wires from the red link terminals of the boiler into the Nest Heatlink terminals (without utilising a single SWL from the Heatlink), then it would be a doddle to remove and repurpose those two wires into the OT termianls, and get max efficiency from the heating boiler.
In simple terms Opentherm is a way for the thermostat to tell the boiler what the temperature of the house is, so the boiler can output the right amount of energy required to reach the desired set temp, rather than just blindly output a set temperature dictated by the boiler CH dial.
If your installer took two wires from the red link terminals of the boiler into the Nest Heatlink terminals (without utilising a single SWL from the Heatlink), then it would be a doddle to remove and repurpose those two wires into the OT termianls, and get max efficiency from the heating boiler.
In simple terms Opentherm is a way for the thermostat to tell the boiler what the temperature of the house is, so the boiler can output the right amount of energy required to reach the desired set temp, rather than just blindly output a set temperature dictated by the boiler CH dial.
Mine has the logic OS2 weather compensation device on the outside wall. No idea how effective it is really