Guide: Fitting a radiator to a case roof panel

[DaveMac]

One of the most daunting parts of installing watercooling is fitting the radiator to the case. There are a few other options available such as an external rad-box or mounting adaptors that hang the rad off the back of the case but I prefer an fully internal option.

This guide shows how I fitted a ThermoChill HE120.3 radiator into the roof panel of a Lian-Li PC-75 case with an Aqua Computer grill. I bought the case with the intention of fitting a triple rad for maximum performance at very low noise levels. This guide can easily be used for fitting smaller rads to smaller cases, I'd recommend checking internal clearances to PSUs etc thoroughly.


First removal of the roof panel. This isn't essential but it does make working on the panel much easier. The top is fixed on with two rivets at the front of the case and two at the rear and can be removed by drilling them out with a 2.5mm HSS bit. These can be replaced later with new rivets or self-tapping screws.

The grill is an Aqua Computer Airplex evo 360, high quality 2mm thick stainless steel with a finish that goes well with the anodised silver aluminium case.

The radiator is a ThermoChill HE120.3 rev 2, shown with the fan mounts removed and the additional performance shroud PS 120.3

Cover the whole surface in masking tape to protect it from any scrapes or scuffs to the finished surface.

Mark centre lines on both the roof panel and the ends of the grill.
Position the grill and align the centre marks to ensure it is central. I kept the rear edge approx 40mm from the rear to allow a rear case fan to be fitted if required and keep the front as free as possible to allow fan controllers or similar to still use the top drive bays as the reduced size won't take an optical drive.

 

[DaveMac]

Draw round the grill shape with a pencil ensuring all the holes are marked.

Mark up the internal cut out area in fine tipped felt pen to make it more visible (CD-R pens are ideal). Mark any holes for drilling with crosses through the centres.

Centre punch the drill holes to prevent the drill slipping and scoring the surface.
An automatic punch is ideal, if not use a hammer and punch or nail or screw but place some timber inside underneath to prevent the panel buckling.
Drill a pilot hole with a 1 or 2mm HSS bit first as this is easier to control, then drill through with a 4mm HSS bit.
I was not using the outside corner holes so these were left.

Chopping time! I used a dremel as I had the inset screw mounts to go around. A jigsaw is better on straight cuts but needs a hole large enough to fit the blade into at each starting point/corner and this would have taken longer.

Initial cutting completed. I used a technique called stich drilling to remove some of the area around the screw mounts, this is a series of holes drilled that just overlap each other and form a cut line.

 

[DaveMac]

This is where a dremel is really useful. This took about fifteen minutes from the rough cut stage above to get to this.
It is possible to do the same with a series of shapes and sizes of metal files but it will take much longer.
Remove all burring from the edges by drawing a file over the cuts.

Now for a test fit of the grill, checking to make sure all the bolts holes line up exactly and the cut edges are not visible through the top.

As they use different hole centres and I wanted to keep the stainless mounting machine screws, I needed to make some adaptor rail to mount the
Thermochill radiator to an Aquacomputer grill. Simple two pieces of aluminium angle, one side drilled to match the rad side mounting holes and the other side to match the grill.

Test fitting of the rails fitted onto the grill.

Oblique view showing the rad mounting holes.

 

[DaveMac]

View from the top, the pieces of angle now visible need removing and are marked up in a similar way as before.

Angle rails trimmed down to size, again using a dremel.

Trimmed rails re-fitted onto the grill.

Oblique view showing fittings. The rad has an in-built shroud that keep the surface 10mm inset from the rad body, these fittings sit inside.

View from top, all clear again now.

 

[DaveMac]

Now it's time to assemble all the components: shroud, neoprene gasket, barbs, PTFE tape, fans and mounting screws, radiator and case top with grill and rails fitted.

Rad is attached to the rails using a right angled screw driver as the lip on the case top restricts access for a normal driver.

Rad installed, and barbs attached using 3 turns of PTFE tape and a quarter turn with a spanner past hand tight.

The self adhesive neoprene gasket is stuck onto the shroud then the fans mounted with self tapping screws.

The shroud assembly is then mounted onto the rad and attached to the sides with self tapping screws.
Note that the bleed valve is still easily accessible when installed in the case by removing the PSU mounting plate.

 

[DaveMac]

Finished item fully assembled.

Installed and in use.

I hope this proves useful to anyone who is apprehensive about installing a radiator.

Since doing this ThermoChill have released their own chrome rad grill that will mounts directly to their rads.
So the stages I had with the additional mounting rails will not be required if you use them instead.

This was my first time installing into a roof panel and as long as you take your time and plan it properly in advance it really is simple.
Remember the old tradesman adage 'Measure twice, cut once'.

And on a final note, please don't skimp on safety gear, goggles/safety glasses are only a couple of quid and are a must for any metal cutting - you only get one pair of eyes so look after them.

 

[DaveMac]

Cheer guys.

For the dremel work I used the HD reinforced cutting disks for the cut out and the small drum sander for tidying up.

 

[DaveMac]

Great guide, and a fantastic, clean result too. May I ask how long it took you to make the main cuts on the panel with your Dremel?

I ask this because I have done a similar mod on my Coolermaster stacker, but with AquaComputer 1x160 (2x80mm) and 1x120 rads/grills. But I used a cheapo Focus dremel-copy and it took me almost 4 hours and loads of cutting discs, no word of a lie!! Are original Dremels worth the extra outlay?

I did this last year, iirc I used the best part one of the big 38mm HD disks for the cuts and two sander drum sleeves it took maybe 1 1/2 hours to cut.

If you are cutting steel it will take much longer and use a lot of blades and would definately prefer a jigsaw with a decent quality blade or even an angle grinder.

I had a cheaper multi-tool machine before and it was rubbish in comparison. Also the branded dremel blades seem better quality and are longer lasting than the cheaper brands.
Some of the thin blades are unusable, I've since tried using some of the clone kit ones to get rid of them and ending snapping then as they were being fitted.
Definately worth the extra for the proper kit if you plan to use it often. "Buy cheap, buy twice"

Does that he120.3 grill work for a pa120.3 as wel

the grill isnt attached directly tothe rad, by using the piece of angle aluminium he has as an adapter, any rad could be made to fit to the AC grill.

afaik though the HE and PA rads both use the same holelayout (well all the ones Ive seen have).

looks very nice, You could put an Aqua pc res in front of it

Aquatube is too expensive for the acrylic version, wouldn't consider an aluminium one. Aquabox is very similar to the other Re-pack delrin res I have already.
Factor in they will also need re-boring and tapping as they have G1/8 threads, just not viable.

 

[DaveMac]

Noticed in the final pic you've modded the front and back for 120mm fans. More dremel magic? Probably going to try the same, although the stock fans aren't too bad, but quieter is better.

Yep, first thing I did & well worth it.

Rear