Gutted :(....

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Hi guys just built my PC around two weeks ago everything was running beautifully. All of a sudden I went to switch it on tonight and it wont power up it like turns on for a split second, I hear a click fans spin then that's it. Even if I try to power it up again I don't get anything unless I remove the psu cable and put it back in then I get the one second of power again. The lights on my graphics card are on and the what looks like a power switch on the mobo is also lit up.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

KR33PY

PC Spec: Asus GeForce GTX 670 DirectCU II TOP 2048MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
OCZ Vertex 4 256GB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s Solid State Hard Drive (VTX4-25SAT3-256G)
Intel Core i5-3570K 3.40GHz (Ivybridge) Socket LGA1155 Processor (77W) -Retail
Gigabyte Z77X-UD5H Intel Z77 (Socket 1155) DDR3 Motherboard
Corsair Professional Series AX850 High Performance 850W Modular '80 Plus Gold' Power Supply (CMPSU-850AXUK)
Corsair Obsidian 650D Gaming Midi Tower - Black
Corsair Hydro H100 Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler (Socket LGA775/LGA1155/LGA1156/LGA1366/LGA2011/AM2/AM3) (CWCH100)
Samsung SH-B123L/RSBP 12x BluRay ROM / DVDRW DL & RAM Lightscribe SATA-II Optical Drive - Black (Retail)
Samsung Green (MV-3V4G3D/US) 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C11 1600MHz 30nm Dual Channel Kit
NZXT Sentry LX LCD Fan Controller
 
I'd first check for any loose connections, including reseating all expansion cards and RAM. If that doesn't work, is your system overclocked at all? If so it might be worth clearing CMOS so that defaults are restored to see if that helps.

Also, do you have another PSU to hand to test that it isn't your PSU that's struggling for some reason?

And lastly, are any cables shorting the system? I remember trying to cable tidy my PC once by routing some cables underneath the mobo, after which it wouldn't power on; re-routing these solved the problem.
 
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Hi, I've checked for loose connections and re-seated everything also pressed the clear c-mos button without any success. As for the cables there is none running underneath the mobo as the case has quite good holes for cable management, so they're all tucked in there and at the back of the case.

It wasn't overclocked either.

Unfortunately I don't have another PSU :(
 
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if you remove the PSU you can bridge the green and black wires in the 24 pin block to "hotwire" the PSU to start from the power switch on the back of the unit or the wall. (google paperclip test)

It's usually wise to hook up a fan or dvd drive to the PSU. If the fan doesnt spin up at all the PSU is dead. If you ahve a multimeter you can test the voltages to see how healthy the PSU is, if it appears ok from this basic test. As there appear to be some activity lights on the mobo the PSU clearly isn't dead dead, so you either need to use a multimeter or try a known working PSU
 
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Try doing as honosuseri says above as I'm also leaning towards it being a PSU fault. If that's all alright then if you haven't already, perhaps try putting the graphics card into a different slot and the same with one stick of RAM. After that I'm clutching at straws, but could you borrow a GPU and/or HDD from someone? It might also be worth double-checking the CPU's seated right and that the CPU cooler's still installed properly.
 
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if you remove the PSU you can bridge the green and black wires in the 24 pin block to "hotwire" the PSU to start from the power switch on the back of the unit or the wall. (google paperclip test)

It's usually wise to hook up a fan or dvd drive to the PSU. If the fan doesnt spin up at all the PSU is dead. If you ahve a multimeter you can test the voltages to see how healthy the PSU is, if it appears ok from this basic test. As there appear to be some activity lights on the mobo the PSU clearly isn't dead dead, so you either need to use a multimeter or try a known working PSU


Thank you for the suggestion I found a video on Youtube from corsair themselves showing how to do it. So i'll give that a try and post back when I'm done.

Firstly off to the store to get a paperclip lol. I can't find one anywhere :P
 
That sucks :/ I must be one of the lucky ones, I never have problems with PSUs.

I also use a surge protector, but I would doubt that's the problem unless you have really dodgy electricals in your house.
 
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That sucks :/ I must be one of the lucky ones, I never have problems with PSUs.

I also use a surge protector, but I would doubt that's the problem unless you have dodgy electricals in your house.

+1
Surge protectors (the right ones) can give such peace of mind for so little cost. Unless you laid that wire in wall your self you have no idea what connections / changes/ age related issues you could be facing, and plugging you 2k+ machine into.
 
+1
Surge protectors (the right ones) can give such peace of mind for so little cost. Unless you laid that wire in wall your self you have no idea what connections / changes/ age related issues you could be facing, and plugging you 2k+ machine into.

Most surge protectors are hype is they also use the same wire in the wall... If wiring isn't right, surge protector doesn't work right.
 
Most surge protectors are hype is they also use the same wire in the wall... If wiring isn't right, surge protector doesn't work right.

The belkins have tolerance ranges, I am not going to argue that a UPS is not better but on a scale of value (£Vs. reward) a basic step would be a surge protector. Then you look at up-scaling towards UPS if you really want that ultimate guarantee, but even then it's not 100%.
 
If building is properly ground a good surge protector will work.. if not, they won't. And make sure you surge protect your internet lne too. Lightning strikes come in on both.

And UPS is best for many reasons; surge protection, clean power signal, and of course no sudden lose of power... we momentary drops in power are more common than most think.

I use UPS. Battery need replaced as it won't last a minute, but still doing everything else just great and haven't had a power outage long enought to need a minutes of backup.
 
Thank you for the suggestion I found a video on Youtube from corsair themselves showing how to do it. So i'll give that a try and post back when I'm done.

Firstly off to the store to get a paperclip lol. I can't find one anywhere :P

You're welcome bud. Hope you are back up and running soon
 
I don't suppose there are any kind of beeps comings from the PC, assuming it has an internal speaker that is? A series of beeps would be an error code as to the fault.

But if there are none and it shuts down immediately then it sounds like the PSU. The clicking noise sounds like the voltage protection shutting the PSU down.
 
UPS ftw... proper power smoothing and much safer.
A typical UPS connects an appliance directly to AC mains and any anomalies. Power is 'dirtiest' when a UPS operates from a battery. Where is all this smoothing? In advertising. Smoothing is how lies manipulate consumers.

A typical UPS outputs power so 'dirty' as to potentially harm small electric motors and power strip protectors. Due to superior 'smoothing' already inside electronics, that same UPS becomes ideal power.

If a strip protector has protection numbers superior to a UPS, then why is a UPS better? Hearsay and myths are more often believed. Facts and numbers are best ignored.

If a power strip protector cannot stop what three kilometers of sky could not, then why would a smaller protector circuit in a UPS do better? A typical UPS simply connects AC mains directly to its appliance. Where is the protection? Inside minds of many educated only by hearsay and advertising.

'Dirtiest' power comes from a typical UPS in battery backup mode. Fortunately, protection inside all electronics is so superior as to convert the 'dirtiest' UPS output into ideal perfect electricity. Anybody can read those manufacturer specification numbers. How many actually did before posting? Yes I am asking for a number.
 
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