H60 pump failed... :(

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16 Jan 2010
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My 2 week old H60 failed on me last night - leaving me back on the stock cooler.

Luckly I had core temp running on the 2nd screen while playing Crysis and noticed the cores sitting @ 98c!

After it cooled down I noticed in the BIOS that the CPU fan rpm would start out at about 4200 then drop of to about 80RPM and the temps would climb. I double checked that I had disabled smart fan control and also tried it on the SYS fan connector - showing the same issues.

Its being RMA's but I just wondered what general thoughts are about the H60?

Kinda put off so temped to opt for a Noctua if my Antec 100 will take it.
 
Personally, i prefer quality air over the all-in-one coolers purely because there's less to go wrong and a quality air cooler (e.g. Silver Arrow) will outperform a H60 for less money.

Having said that the all-in-ones do have their advantages (easy access to memory, easy to fit/refit etc...) and if these outweigh the merits of a bulky air cooler then stick with what you've got.
 
Did you make sure to plug in the molex cable too? (presuming it has one, only had experience with the H80)

I'm sure someone mentioned that unless the molex is plugged in the motherboard can sometimes struggle to feed 12v to the pump.

My H80 is setup connected to molex, and a 3pin fan header (so it reads the pump speed).

I hear of more failures with corsair ALC units (mostly h50/60/70, the new pump on the H80/100 is proving more sturdy) than with the antec khulers.
 
The H60 only has a 3 pin connector and has been working fine for the first couple of weeks. Haven't added anything that could possibly effect power or attempted and OC.

Shame really as its a tidy solution. Think I'll opt for air this time or I'll be constantly watching coretemp with one eye.
 
You had the pump's power connector on the CPU fan header? That's probably what has caused the problem. Even when CPU fan speed is set to max or the control is disabled, the voltage can still fluctuate which damages the pump over time. Best to have it on a normal 3 pin header and put the CPU fan on the CPU fan header.
Having said that, the enclosed liquid coolers' pumps aren't very reliable, especially the newer Coolit ones (H60, H80, H100) so if you need reliability I'd advise getting a cheaper, better air cooler.
 
hmm put me right off using the h60 now :( im going to have to google on corsairs rep and what happens if it does fail.

Do corsair replace a burned out cpu? :o
 
Doesn't your computer shut down at 95?

My previous computer I had custom watercooling and when something happen with the pump, it'd randomly go from 35 degree to 95, and computer would instantly shut down
 
yea i forgot intel has auto shut down feature... thats that worry off my mind now i need to make sure it wont leak which would be worse.

im still a little paranoid about getting a h60 or h70 or h80.I realised though its the perfect solution to my cooling needs as well for ivy bridge.
 
this is why motherboards have options to alarm you if the RPM dissapears from certain fan headers, did it with mine, (tested by quickly unplugging, and plugging back in) least if it happens, you get a nasty beeping sound coming from the case, any fool can tell its bad :P
 
im still a little paranoid about getting a h60 or h70 or h80.I realised though its the perfect solution to my cooling needs as well for ivy bridge.

Then get a Silver Arrow (when they're finally in stock) - zero paranoi and parity/superior cooling.
 
Well i have an extreme anti-dust case planned out.

The way i have the case worked out is with only one exhaust and lots of positive pressure and cold air and for this small exhaust setup the corsair units will work better and look better if i can be assured of the quality and lifespan on my expensive parts.

And silver arrow ruins my black paint scheme.The only two air coolers ill consider is the CNPS9900 max blue or the venemous x black edition.Oh and i have 4 dimms of ram also which further complicates matters.
 
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