Has anyone replaced 12V MR16 dimmable halogen bulbs with equivalent LED bulbs? Or suggest an alternative?

[Mysterae_]

As part of making the house more energy efficient I've been wanting to replace the existing spotlight bulbs in the livingroom (x12) and kitchen (x12) to LEDs. The existing lights are MR16 halogens supplied with 12V from a transformer. I have found some direct replacements although the choice is slim due to being MR16 type (Phillips are ££), however I've heard the LEDs type can suffer from flickering, not dimming properly or failing to even illuminate due to the current for the LEDs being too low for the existing transformer. Has anyone fitted replacements that worked okay?

Or do I have to accept the inevitable and just replace the fittings as well? Change over to the more popular GU10 or get all enclosed fire rated ones?

 

[Fubsy]

I unfortunately don't have the answer to this, but interested in what the experts have to say. I replaced the halogens MR16 bulbs in my bathrooms with LED equivalents but they do flicker, sometimes turn off or fail to come on altogether. I'm leaning towards getting the GU10 fittings and swapping them over, but don't know where to start.

 

[theone8181]

I did this. I had 4 mr16 (think 50w), and there was a transformer for each. I don't know how old, but at least 13 years. I swapped them all to led then found there was a disco going on due to all the flickering. I then fitted an led driver to power all 4 leds and it all works fine. Just hard on your knees when on joists. I'd be wary about going to w40v, I assume mr16 because it's a bathroom and steam.

 

[jpaul]

however I've heard the LEDs type can suffer from flickering, not dimming properly or failing to even illuminate due to the current for the LEDs being too low for the existing transformer

you'd need to invest in a decent (smart?) trailing/rising edge dimmer, and dummy loads even if you change to gu10, the transformer is an additional cost but offset by not having to replace ceiling fittings;

I like v-tac brand bulbs, I'd probably buy a few mr16's from amazon and a decent transformer ... and try it out, sending it back if they don't perform (I often use cpc too)

Dimmer 2 and AR111 G53 LED 12V spotlights

Hey all, I'm planning to buy Dimmer 2 to control spotlights in my kitchen. I've asked in a local Fibaro store for an advice on how the whole light installation should look like to allow Dimmer 2 to switch on/off and dim the lights. The guy said I would need to use 230V powered lights (at least th...

forum.fibaro.com

 

[gort]

All mine around the house (30 or so) had their own small transformer behind them so easy to just cut out and wire direct to the new led bulb through the gu10 fitting.

Didn't have to change any housing etc as the led bulbs were same shape and size as the halogens they replaced.
Just meant lots of cable cutting and stripping but around 5 mins per light.

 

[jpaul]

All mine around the house (30 or so) had their own small transformer behind them so easy to just cut out and wire direct to the new led bulb through the gu10 fitting.

Didn't have to change any housing etc as the led bulbs were same shape and size as the halogens they replaced.

you mean - you changed from mr16 to gu10 - but didn't need to modify housing or make a bigger hole in the ceiling. ?

 

[wonko]

If you were cutting holes to install new recessed lights below an inhabited room then I understand fire-rated fittings or fire hoods are required by building regs to maintain a fire barrier. I'm not sure whether there is a requirement to retrofit fire-rated fittings or hoods where the holes in the plasterboard already exist as you're not making it any worse from a fire propagation point of view (but it's probably a good opportunity) so maybe worth doing a bit of research or seeking advice.

Anyway, a few years ago I swapped our kitchen MR16s for Philips Hue GU10s using the same fittings. I had to temporarily remove each fitting to take out the transformer and wire in a GU10 connector, then hard-wire the lights to be permanently on, put a blanking plate in place of the old dimmer switch and a Hue smart button on that. A PIR automatically turns the lights on when it's dark enough and keeps them on while there's movement in the room.

Obviously not as cheap to do (and I think you'd also need a Hue Bridge to use a PIR) but pretty useful to have the lights come on automagically (and dim at night if you want).

 

[Mysterae_]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions folks.

In the end I settled for just replacing the lot with fire rated enclosed units. I didn't want to take a chance with MR16 LED replacements as I'm sure they'll just give problems due to the dimmers. I didn't want to replace the dimmers either due to how the lights are dimmed in banks across a few switches, it would be more trouble than it's worth. I went with fire rated lights as they are for the kitchen and livingroom which both have a source of heat, a stove in the case of the livingroom.

Going to be busy wiring these lot up!