Has Windows 10 bricked my GA-X99-Gaming-5 BIOS? ARGH! HELP ME!!!!

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I HAVE REPOSTED MY POST HERE FROM ELSEWHERE, AS I AM DESPERATE TO FIND SOMEONE WITH A MAGIC BULLET FOR ME, HOPE THIS IS OK!
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Thanks in advance you clever folk...

I know this is referring to pretty old Gigabyte tech now but I have not had a problem with my setup until a couple of days ago, running like a dream since 2015. Now it just goes to a black screen straight after Gigabyte splash screen, no matter what you remove and how much you hammer the keyboard. And it is driving me insane!
If anyone can help me out of this horrorshow you will be earning a lifetime of karma I can tell you that

System specs:

CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.30GHz Socket 2011 15MB Cache (Corsair liquid-cooling)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-X99-Gaming 5 (Rev 1.0)
Ram: Ballistix Sport DDR4 16GB (4x4GB) 2400mhz
SSD/HDD: 240 Gb Sandisk SSD plus - approx 18 months old I think -as system drive, plus 2 x data HDDs.
GPU: Powercolor Radeon R9 280x 3Gb (main GPU) / MSI Radeon 5450 256Mb (old alternate GPU)
PSU: Corsair RM850 850W
OS: Windows 10, fully updated


Background - I was trying to save a few Gb on my Windows Drive so asked it to clear up and delete redundant system files. Might be just incredible co-incidence but seems like this was a big mistake.
Because.... Next time I restarted it flicked strwight past the Gigabyte screen in 1-2 secs and on to a black screen which still seems to be sending info to the monitor as that stays on. Nothing else happens no matter how long you leave it. No matter how hard and fast I hammered various keys on a USB wired keyboard trying to get into the Gigabyte System info, boot options or BIOS options on startup it always went straight back to the black screen of nothingness after 1-2 seconds.

So obviously it isn't totally dead and is capable of sending info to the graphics card which is then in turn capable of sending info to the monitor, but it is like it forgets how to drive the graphics after a few seconds.
I unhooked all of the hard disks and PCI cards except for the graphics card, all USB peripherals except keyboard, everything possible I could strip out, in the hope that I could get things back to basics and have a look at what was going on. Set up a Windows 10 Installer USB stick using my laptop, and a Gigabyte BIOS USB stick using the F23c BIOS update too. Hoping I could reinstall Windows and if that failed re-flash the BIOS.

But without being able to get into the options on the startup screen none of this was possible.
I'm a few hours into my troubleshooting now and starting to get pretty fraught to say the least. I rely on this computer for all of my important work and leisure activities, especially at the moment for obvious reasons.
So I tried swapping out the R9 280x for my primitive old MSI Radeon 5450 to see if maybe it can deal with less advanced graphics capabilities for longer before crapping out. No change.
I tried taking out all the RAM, try as many permutations of the four sticks in different single slots I can. No change. Still just a Gigabyte screen for a second then blackness.
I tried leaving the CMOS battery out overnight and resetting the CMOS via the jumper. No difference. Just a second of startup screen and blackness.
I tried taking all the RAM out and putting my BIOS update USB stick in the white BIOS update USB port. Here obviously you get no monitor feedback and have to rely on the flashing orange LED that says 'FBIOS_LED'. When you power it on in this state it flashes that LED on once, thinks for a second, all other lights on the motherboard off, then shuts itself down, before restarting with all lights on, and the orange light starts flashing for a while.
At this point I'm presuming / hoping that the QFlash BIOS update process is happening though I can't find info on this anywhere. At least something is happening, I think.
I wait until the light turns solid, which I'm hoping means the BIOS flashing process is complete, then I go off for a bit just to make sure
When I return, the light is still solid. So I turn the computer off, remove the power cable, take the USB stick out, put a stick of RAM back in, put my Windows installer USB in the first of the yellow USB-DAC ports, and fire back up, do you usual trick of hammering the keyboard.
Progress! Well a tiny bit. This time the black screen holds off for long enough for me to access a screen where it says the BIOS has been updated and asks me to press enter. Then blackness.
Forewarned is forearmed and I restart, ready to quickly press enter. I do this and then it goes to blackness again.
Now when I hammer the keyboard on startup I can get into the different menus for a fraction of a second, like if I press F9 the system info comes up for long enough to see it before once again blackness descends. By mashing the keyboard on a few more startup attempts I by a MIRACLE manage to get a stable screen giving me options to boot up from USB, including the Windows 10 Installer ! Amazing! I've done it! After only about 10 hours of fruitless work! I select my Windows USB stick and have a couple of options to install 64-bit or 32-bit Windows. Those blocky words rendered in that primitive DOS font are the sweetest thing I have ever seen at this point.
But as already mentioned I have no hard disks attached. So I quick as poss try and plug my old Windows SSD drive back in, ferreting around with SATA cables in a semi-excited panic. Even if I have to wipe my Windows drive and start again, it'll be worth it, I'm thinking right now.
Then when I look up it's just that black screen again
I unplug the SSD again just to be sure.
Now when I restart I can't even get that two second access to the menus again like I could since the update, it's like I'm back to square one. FFS FML SNAFU FUBAR etc...
I go through all of the above steps again taking many more hours and can't even seem to replicate the situation where I got access, however temporary, to the menus, again.
I even order a PS/2 keyboard overnight to see if that works better at getting me in via the miniscule tapping window than a USB keyboard, being closer to the fundamental hardware level and all.
No difference. Just a second of Gigabyte then that inky black empty void staring back at me.
ARGH.
I don't have much money knocking about to buy a whole new computer, things being what they are at the moment. But I need the computer to earn money. So at this point I have a handful of options left.
  1. Ask you clever folk online to see if someone can help me with any more ideas!
  2. Buy a set of needle-nose tweezers and try and short out pins 1 and 6 of the main BIOS to try and force the board to use the backup BIOS. This sounds scary and like I could easily cause more damage.
Also does anyone know which of the two BIOS chips on the motherboard is main BIOS and which is backup? They are next to each other but don't seem to be labelled on the board.
  1. Buy a freshly flashed BIOS chip from ebay, hope it's legit, and try and desolder the old MBIOS (once I've identified which is which) and solder in the new one. Involves the joy of SMT soldering with super delicate components. Maybe worth soldering in an SMD chip socket if I go down this route...
  2. Buy a replacement LGA 2011v3 DDR4 RAM motherboard. I was pretty close to biting the bullet to save me more headaches and just doing this, but right now even sourcing legit compatible like-for-like X99 LGA2011 v3 DDR4 RAM motherboards for anything like a reasonable price seems nigh-on impossible too, whether new or second-hand. So even my nuclear option is a virtual non-starter. Ridiculous!
TL;DR? Help save me from the long dark black void of a misbehaving Gigabyte GA-X99 Gaming 5 BIOS
 
I use a flat blade screw drive to short the CMOS CLR jumper so don't worry about doing that if you're stuck shorting jumpers. If you can get in the BIOS see if the CPU sleeps states are enabled. Weirdly I'm sure these used to work all enabled but now I can't get either of the gaming 5 (or MSi X99) boards to boot under Win10 with them all enabled.

Symptom of that though is Win10 boot hard locking at the spinning dots.

Other than that try an older BIOS flash oh and take the board out of the case and stick it on a box. You never know as I keep an air cooler spare for this as I have an AIO on the CPU in the case.
 
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Thanks a lot for all your speedy replies everyone.

Well from what you've said my first thought would be a new SSD.
Well I had actually just got a new 480Gb SSD as I was running out of space - but if I don't have time to access any USB boot options before it goes to black screen how can I reinstall Windows on to the new disk?
The CPU sleep states cause this with Win10. In the CPU BIOS settings there are 3 states you can disable play with those.
Trouble is I can't access any of the BIOS options - it flicks past the Gigabyte splash/BIOS/boot options screen and on to a black screen before you have a chance to do anything. On the rare occasion I have managed to trigger an option from this screen it too goes rapidly to black from there before you have time to do anything.
 
I read more of you post and updated my earlier post but yeah you're stuck at the black screen. At this point I'd take the board out of the case and try to simplify with an air cooler and swap other parts like PSU, RAM etc.

Easy for me to say as I usually have spare kicking around. I've had issue with RAM previously where the system works great then for some reason maybe the BIOS resets or the system reports a failed boot and I have to play with settings to get it working again. X99 boards can be temperamental at times but I've had 4 over the last few years!

My very first gaming 5 did just simply die (happened at lot at launch) after a month but that was replaced under warranty.
 
I use a flat blade screw drive to short the CMOS CLR jumper so don't worry about doing that if you're stuck shorting jumpers. If you can get in the BIOS see if the CPU sleeps states are enabled. Weirdly I'm sure these used to work all enabled but now I can't get any of the X99 boards to boot under Win10 with them all enabled.

Symptom of that though is Win10 boot hard locking at the spinning dots.

Other than that try an older BIOS flash or last resort a replacement.

I have an actual jumper cap I have been able to use to reset the CMOS (have also tried a screwdriver tip) and have also left the CMOS backup battery out overnight so I'm confident I managed to clear the CMOS. Didn't seem to make any difference sadly.

Have also tried flashing a few different versions of the BIOS, again, doesn't seem to make any difference. I don't know if I am doing the process correctly though, can't seem to find any details about the correct process in the manual or online other than someone saying to do it from scratch you need to rename the file to GIGABYTE.BIN, put it on an empty USB stick with FAT formatting, remove all your RAM, and switch on the computer with the stick in the white 'BIOS' USB slot. That the ensuing process - the LED flashing once, the motherboard restarting itself, the LED flashing continually for a few minutes before turning on permanently, is what you'd expect if the BIOS flashing process was carrying out correctly, is just my conjecture.

Could I install Windows 10 on the new SSD drive using another computer somehow and try hooking that up do you think?

Last resorts are to try shorting the pins on startup (need to make sure I choose the correct BIOS chip to do this) which someone on here recommended trying back in 2016 or getting my soldering iron out and trying an ebay BIOS and hoping a) I don't completely kill the board with my iron and b) the BIOS is real.

And then last last resort buy some dodgy-looking overpiced unbranded LGA2011-3 motherboard from China, that won't get here for a month minimum. Really don't want to do that though.
(OR hope a second hand one pops up on ebay for an OK price)
 
Yes I've swapped Win10 drives from system to system and Win10 is quite good at sorting out drivers.

Maybe contact OCUK just in case they have an X99 or two sitting in the warehouse.

I bought several from the B Grade section when they were clearing stock though it's been a while now.
 
Just on the off-chance, try using the mobo video outputs. Maybe it's defaulted to iGPU output from the reset?

Long shot, but easy to try.

Sadly this motherboard has no onboard graphics as far as I'm aware? I think it's def some sort of graphics issue though, like it starts with generic settings and then flicks to trying something more GPU specific that it is messed up and doesn't work.

No spare PSUs and fans etc unfortunately! Have always had to shift my old gear when I upgrade due to space issues. Regret it now though!

Hmm. will contact OCUK just in case of a miracle. Right now I'd snap a decent branded X99 in a heartbeat...
 
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