Headphones for Music

[Steven Rimmington]

Wanting to try and enjoy music a little more, I currently use a set of PS4 Gold Headphones they sound ok to me, but want something with more 'sound' or louder if that makes sense? I Have a B450M Motar Max Mobo and a pair of Alesis Elevate 3 Speakers with a headphone out that I use, I am unsure if I need an external amplifier as well?

I have around £500 to spend, the last good headphones I had was some Sennheiser HD595 in 2009 but they have long since broke!

Probably asked a million times, sorry.

 

[EsaT]

I guess those are wireless ones?
Which means they're using their own (propably cheapest working) circuitry to power them.
Wired gaming heaphones tend to be made to work on potato outputs without much of "beef" behind and shouldn't need much of output voltage to play loud.
While many higher end headphones again have higher impedance and are intended for sources capable to giving out more voltage.

Though if you're using them through speakers, there's likely no real headphone amplifier in them.
Even lots of AVRs use cheap&dirty method of taking headphone output from speaker amplifier using multi hundred ohm resistors to drop voltage to safe for headphone level.
That always makes electric damping factor bad.

the last good headphones I had was some Sennheiser HD595 in 2009 but they have long since broke!

Was first warning of problems something dropping to table?
That mechanical design is just designed all for show and not for durability with stresses fast starting to break bling bling plastics.

 

[Steven Rimmington]

I guess those are wireless ones?
Which means they're using their own (propably cheapest working) circuitry to power them.
Wired gaming heaphones tend to be made to work on potato outputs without much of "beef" behind and shouldn't need much of output voltage to play loud.
While many higher end headphones again have higher impedance and are intended for sources capable to giving out more voltage.

Though if you're using them through speakers, there's likely no real headphone amplifier in them.
Even lots of AVRs use cheap&dirty method of taking headphone output from speaker amplifier using multi hundred ohm resistors to drop voltage to safe for headphone level.
That always makes electric damping factor bad.


Was first warning of problems something dropping to table?
That mechanical design is just designed all for show and not for durability with stresses fast starting to break bling bling plastics.

They are wireless yes but I use the corded wire as I have more control in the amplifier settings on my sound card when connected to the wireless dongle you can only set the windows normal settings like 'bass boost' Loudness equalization' ...

Yes the plastic cracked on both sides, resulting in me using gaffa tape

 

[EsaT]

Are you using them connected to PC or through headphone output of speakers?
And not sure how it goes in ALC892, but in newer ones header for case front panel output has more output power than rear connector.

 

[XeNoNF50]

People seem to swear by the Sennheiser HD660s or Beyerdynamic DT 1990 Pros at that kind of price point.

Both of which will likely need an AMP & DAC to get the most out of them so probably the FiiO K5 Pro is a good one at that kind of price point to keep it close to budget.

 

[ProbablyBanned]

Personally i recently purchased a pair of Fidelio x2HR's which are 32 ohms making them very easy to power if you dont want to have to deal with an amp. They have quite a nice signature and sound stage and can be bought around the 100 pound mark. I'd say they are quite bass heavy, so if you're into bass there an interesting headphone which could save you money and help you see whether you'd want to continue down the audiophile route.

 

[foster grant]

I have some Sennheiser HD600 which I got just over a week ago cos i wasnt gonna pay around £400 for 1990s, and for music the best headphones ive used , problem is they are open back and everyone can hear what I'm listening to so I have not really worn them that much at all.