Help Repairing Speakers

Guest2

Guest2

Guest2

Soldato
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6 May 2009
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There is no bass or mid coming out of my right speaker. When i lightly tap the mid cone it sounds 'detatched' and different from the left.

This was almost certainly due to people playing crap off youtube at high volumes. No one is owning up of course

Is there any way for me to try and see what the damage is to get it repaired?

Is it easy to repair a detatched coil (i think it might be this thats been damaged)
 
What speaker is it? Is it a decent thing? You might be able to get replacement drivers / and /or the kit to repair at wilmslow audio
 
Thanks, ive contacted B&W, Super-fi and techno sound. God damn house parties and crap youtube quality

edit - £60 for a mid range cone and £70 for sub - jesus, i only paid £90 for the speakers!
 
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I have just unscrewed the 4 screws around the mid range cone. How do I take it out, or is it connected to the cabinet on the inside?

There are 4 holes on each corner of the speaker and 2 below the mid range and 2 below the sub. I have not seen the screw/unscrew type before

Ignore that, they are just rubber caps. normal screws underneath
 
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I have just taken the mid range cone out and around the coil part that connects to the magnet looks all black and smells burnt. Not good

I'm guessing that the sub will be the same. Though when i tap it it doesnt sound 'disconnected' like the mid does

Pretty simple inside, looks like all parts can be replaced pretty easily (but expensively) I paid £90 for the speakers but looking on sites it looks like a mid range driver is £60 and sub around £70. Code on mid range is LF ZZ10129, i'll have a look at the sub tomorrow

Is this correct?

Great ****ing start to 2010!
 
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Guest2 said:
I have just taken the mid range cone out and around the coil part that connects to the magnet looks all black and smells burnt. Not good

I'm guessing that the sub will be the same. Though when i tap it it doesnt sound 'disconnected' like the mid does

Pretty simple inside, looks like all parts can be replaced pretty easily (but expensively) I paid £90 for the speakers but looking on sites it looks like a mid range driver is £60 and sub around £70. Code on mid range is LF ZZ10129, i'll have a look at the sub tomorrow

Is this correct?

Great ****ing start to 2010!
Click to expand...


i don't know. How much are the speakers worth - as you've found most of the 'worth' in speakers is the driver, so perhaps it may be worth consonder to buy new loudspeakers?

I don't know the retail on thos loudspeakers and if ou paid £90 second hand and got a bargain or what. But if they are decent, £50-60 doesn't seem that bad to me.

I just had to replace a driver on my loudspeaker which would have cost me £150 but luckily I actually had 2 pairs, so now I still have broken set of drivers , just they aren't currently in an enclosure now.
 
What power is your amp, and what rating are the speakers? Normally its tweeters that blow when you drive an amp beyond its capabilitys, blowing the bass and mid speakers, thats pretty unusual unless your amp is considerably overrated for the speakers.

B&W speakers arnt bad though, its probably worth fixing them, I do wonder if the crossover might be cooked though, to lose bass and mid at the same time.... Hmmm.
 
I got them at a bargain for £90, they usually go for around £300 second hand

Amplifier is a Nad C352. 80 watts per channel. I think the speakers and amp are pretty well matched

Speakers say 'Max amplifier power 120watts' 8ohms.

Can you replace the coil without the whole speaker, the cone looks fine to me, but im no expert

Edit - Corasik - How would I find out if the 'crossover is cooked'?

thanks
 
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Just got off the phone to B&W. Its £58 for a midrange and £44 for the sub including vat & 24 hour delivery

When I asked if the crossover is cooked he said to take screws off the back of the speakers and remove the crossover?! Think he was getting confused. Im sure the crossover is the component inside the cabinet under the foam.

Tonight im going to put the working midrange into the space on the non working speaker and see if it functions. Then try removing the dead sub, even though when i tried before it was pretty hard to remove and swap it for the working sub. Then hopefully I can either buy direct from B&W and replace easily (albeit paying more for 2 speaker drivers than i did for the speakers in total!)
 
If the xos have failed just get the specs of the crossover and build your own replacement units - they are fairly simple.

You could take the oppurtunity to upgrade you speakers by fitting better crossover and drivers if you are into that sort of thing.
 
I could do...however its going to cost me £102 for 2 standard B&W drivers. If I replace the crossover wouldnt i also need equipment to calibrate the crossover frequencies? If i replace with different drivers then I would probably need new cabinets to fit them in.

As it cost me £90 for the speakers in the first place i think ill pass on upgrading parts. Id rather just repair them then sell them and buy different speakers
 
I was thinking, depending on how the crossover and drivers are wired, it could be possible that if the mid's coil is totally burned out, or in short circuit, it could stop the bass working too, so changing just the mid might be enough to sort it, especially if the bass speakers suspension feels normal when you gently push the cone.

I burned out a driver on my speakers once and the failed driver felt like there was sand in the mechanism it was all gritty if you pushed it in gently, rather than being very easy to move.

PS to access the crossover on many speakers you can often unbolt the panel where the speaker connections (on the back of the speaker) are, and the crossover comes out attached with the connector plate, and yes the cross over is inside the cabinet. If you cant remove the entire back panel (or the connector panel) then cross over access has to be achieved through the hole after removing the main bass driver. I visual inspection should be enough to know if the crossover is damaged.

RTL3 speakers for instances have a tendancy to overheat a big ass 10 ohm resistor on the crossover, it costs about 50p to replace the part and its easy to solder in the new one, certainly inspecting the cross over on your speaker should be enough to see if its failed. Its possible to get a little toasty without it failing though, so look for obvious major damage, otherwise its probably ok.
 
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Guest2 said:
I could do...however its going to cost me £102 for 2 standard B&W drivers. If I replace the crossover wouldnt i also need equipment to calibrate the crossover frequencies? If i replace with different drivers then I would probably need new cabinets to fit them in.

As it cost me £90 for the speakers in the first place i think ill pass on upgrading parts. Id rather just repair them then sell them and buy different speakers
Click to expand...

No, I meant you could re-use the cabinets, and get replacement suitable drivers that would match the cabinet. But not everybody is in to that ort of thing. You could potentially rebuild the speaker better than new for similar price as the specifically required components.
 
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