Help required - waterblick installation

Dirk Diggler

Dirk Diggler

Dirk Diggler

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Joined
6 Jan 2013
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Rollergirl
I'm installing an EK FC680 GTX+ onto a gigabyte gtx670. I've removed the heat sink and fans, but there is a separate heat sink that isn't attached by screws. How do I remove it (it's on the right above the R22 components).

Sorry about the image size...

ldba.jpg
 
I got this sorted, it just needed a good tug... The thermal pads were holding it.

What a learning curve that was! I couldn't get the thermal pads to make contact and I finally realised it was because the gigabyte metal edge had to come off. I also feel the backplate is far too close to the soldered studs of the PCI power contacts, will have to insulate it somehow.

Also, I stupidly removed the plexi plate from the water block as it was blocking one of the backplate fixing screws and I thought it would be easier than removing the block again. Stupid stupid stupid! The sealing ring pinged into a round shape and it took me about 3 quarters of an hour to get it back in place and the cover back on.

Gonna have everything crossed when I fill this loop. Thank god I decided to try this with a £200 quid card that I've had for 9 months, as opposed to a new top end card.

Rant over.
 
Glad you got it sorted mate.

I know how you feel, going to be fitting my first gpu waterblock in a few days. I had a quick poke about in the case today and its quite a daunting task for a first timer :(
 
I had intended to get this loop up and running tonight, but due to the soap opera it turned in to it will have to wait until next week... And it just dawned on me that I flushed the rad this morning... Please tell me it won't have a little pool of rusty water lying at the bottom of it next week, ready to dye my Mayhems super dooper water for me! :p

I enjoy the learning curve, but sometimes a hobby like this takes a little more than it gives :D
 
Nothing worse than trying to get a round o-ring back into the groove for it. I've had to resort to using a dab of glue in the past to get it to stay in place.
 
On heatsinks like that, even freeing up cpu/gpu coolers when the TIM is cold its best to get a hair dryer and warm the heatsinks, makes the TIM/pads go soft and will come off a lot easier than pulling hard on them!

Just dont burn your fingers :)
 
on a card i am blocking i tend to run it prior to warm it up a bit (though this did mean i burnt my finger on a 290 hah). It just makes everything a bit softer
 
Loop up and running. I had flushed it initially with deionized water, but I don't think I managed to drain all of it out, so it's probably 60/40 split Mayhems h2o / deionized. Should be ok?

Anyway, results are great. On air the GPU was 32c idle, and 69c at full pelt. With new loop, it's 24c idle and 38c full pelt.

One question if anyone can help, how can I be sure the VRM cooling is adequate? I'm assuming the temps reported in GPU-Z are for the processor?

Cheers.
 
GPU-Z reports GPU temps :)

Can you scroll down on the sensors tab to see VRM temps?

Either way, I wouldn't worry too much. If you've installed the block/pads correctly and the core temps are fine, the VRM's are probably just fine too.
 
I was just kidding :)
If scrolling down on the sensors tab doesn't reveal them, try HWinfo instead.
If neither works, maybe your card doesn't have VRM temp sensors. One of my 7970's doesn't for example.
 
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