Help with network wiring plan

[nst68]

I want to improve my wireless signal by installing an access point in the centre of the house, my "Super"Hub is in one corner and surrounded by a tv, stereo etc.

Here's the plan

The dotted line at the top is the cat5e cable from the SH2, through a wall and into a switch.
Then I'll run another cable from the switch, through a POE injector and up the wall to the access point.

My questions are :-

1. Does the idea look right?

2. The cable from the SH2 to the switch will go past a fish tank pump/filter, from what I've read it's not a good idea to run network cable near electric motors, should I worry about this?

3. When running the cable through the wall is there any reason why I can't just drill a hole straight through and put the cable through without using any faceplates? (apart from it looking tacky).

4. The access point will be on the ceiling and on a cupboard containing the switch is a digital phone, will that have an effect on the wireless signal?

5. Should I use cat6?

 

[Steveocee]

1. Does the idea look right?
No, you used straight lines for some and freehand for others *jokes* It looks fine.
2. The cable from the SH2 to the switch will go past a fish tank pump/filter, from what I've read it's not a good idea to run network cable near electric motors, should I worry about this?
It's not ideal but use a decent cable, short distance and low powered motor you should be fine.
3. When running the cable through the wall is there any reason why I can't just drill a hole straight through and put the cable through without using any faceplates? (apart from it looking tacky).
No reason at all, smaller hole if you can crimp the RJ45 ends on yourself but other than that, no reason not to.
4. The access point will be on the ceiling and on a cupboard containing the switch is a digital phone, will that have an effect on the wireless signal?
Nope
5. Should I use cat6?
No difference. Cat5 is IMO easier to crimp and a lot on here say don't crimp cat6 at all, if you are buying pre-terminated (patch) cables than yeah go wild. No difference really as you're going into a wifi device that at a guess will only punt out 300Mb on its best day.

 

[Hyburnate]

As above really

 

[nst68]

Thanks.

Any recommendations for cable (white), crimp tool and cable tester please.

 

[Hyburnate]

Thanks.

Any recommendations for cable (white), crimp tool and cable tester please.

For the length that you're doing, it's pointless. Buy an appropriate length patch lead and use that.

 

[Avalon]

For the length that you're doing, it's pointless. Buy an appropriate length patch lead and use that.

That does require a larger hole I'd agree though from a cost pov then just buy a suitable length of cable and drill a slightly larger hole.

 

[APM]

netplugs option no good?

 

[nst68]

That does require a larger hole I'd agree though from a cost pov then just buy a suitable length of cable and drill a slightly larger hole.

I'm hoping to route the cable to the access point through the ceiling and then across to the access point, so I don't have a wire visible on the ceiling, so wanted to keep the hole into the ceiling small.
How wide a hole would I need to get a patch cable through?

netplugs option no good?

Probably, but I've not done anything like this before, so fancied a go!

 

[Steveocee]

Thanks.

Any recommendations for cable (white), crimp tool and cable tester please.

Make sure you get UTP / solid core cable and not the CCA stuff. A cheap crimper from ebay would be fine if you're only doing a few ends and not using it a lot. Don't worry about a tester, when you crimp both ends then plug it in you will know if it works or not.

netplugs option no good?

Correct.

 

[bremen1874]

Make sure you get UTP / solid core cable and not the CCA stuff.

Fair enough about avoiding CCA, but for crimping you'd ideally use stranded cable not solid core. If you are crimping to solid core then make sure the plugs are rated for it, many plugs are only suitable for stranded cable.

 

[Jamauk]

It might be an idea to get a PoE switch, I've got a couple of D-Link 8 port ones that work well and that way it's one less thing plugged in, and potentially neater.

 

[bremen1874]

In the OP's diagram the switch isn't required at all. He just needs a PoE injector next to the Super Hub and a cable to the AP.

He may well want to connect additional devices to the switch shown, but who knows?

If the OP does consider getting a PoE switch he needs to check the AP he's planning to use is standards based. Many of the cheaper APs use passive PoE where a PoE switch will be of little use.

 

[Jamauk]

In the OP's diagram the switch isn't required at all. He just needs a PoE injector next to the Super Hub and a cable to the AP.

That was my first thought, I personally would add a switch for futureproofing, although that could still be something added at a later date, if required

 

[nst68]

That was my first thought, I personally would add a switch for futureproofing, although that could still be something added at a later date, if required

Yep, the switch is for a NAS that's going there.

 

[nst68]

I'm going to use a Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR UniFi AC1300 access point that comes with a PoE injector

 

[Steveocee]

I'm going to use a Ubiquiti UAP-AC-LR UniFi AC1300 access point that comes with a PoE injector

Good choice. Can I ask why the LR though? There is no point in spending the additional money as legally the unit can only output to UK standards (20db eirp / 50mw I think), the LR edition has additional power output which is not usable in the UK locality but may be in other countries.

Also be aware that the UAP-AC and -LR are 24v passive PoE input not your "normal" 48v input. This means you either a) need to use the PoE injector they come with or b) you can use somethign cool like this https://www.msdist.co.uk/product_MikroTik-RouterBOARD-RB260GSP.php to power it as well as turning a PoE port off for your NAS

 

[bremen1874]

There are more differences than just a bump in the TX power.