High idle temps

Mr crowley

Mr crowley

Mr crowley

Associate
Joined
18 Aug 2013
Posts
223
Hi
Im having an issue with a ryzen 3600x cooled by a lian li 360mm water cooler. It used to run fine and has done for about 10 months with idle temps of low 30s, now the idle temps are around 60 degrees. When gaming it tops 80 degrees.
On the bios I've got the cooler itself set up as a water pump, on standard mode which seems to stay at about 2500rpm. The intake filter is clean and it's in a lian li 011d with three Noctua fans as intake on the bottom, the radiator is side mounted with the pipes going into the top so the pump should never run dry. When I set the pump to performance mode or full speed it's definitely working with a faint whirring noise. On standard mode I can't really hear it over the quiet case fans when idling, it's not got any louder over its life so I would be surprised if the pump is causing this.
I'm thinking re paste it first as I used the paste that came on the cooler? After that i can't see anything else being a problem
 
Mr crowley said:
the radiator is side mounted with the pipes going into the top so the pump should never run dry.
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And just how lighter air and denser water position themselves in the radiator if there's air?
Air to top of the radiator!

It's bottom end of radiator where pipes should go to make sure air can't get into block/pump, or form any kind possible coolant flow hindering blockage in the highest part of the loop.


And sudden temperature rise isn't typical for problem with paste.
Its aging affects temperatures gradually over time.
 
I think in that instance with the pipes at the bottom air would be trapped at the pump when switched off, as the pipes would go back up to it. I didn't think there was any downside to having the pipes at the top of the radiator to be honest, i think gamersnexus did a video with a see through top to the radiator and it caused no problems in that layout.
I know the ideal solution is to top mount the radiator but there would be no fresh air getting to it as the gpu would be between it and the intake, so with having the radiator as a side exhaust both the gpu and radiator get fresh air

edit-seems to be fixed! I put some arctic silver on today, now idling about 45-50 which is still a bit high, but gaming at 62 degrees totally silent where it was screaming its nads off at 80 degrees before
 
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Best positions for CLC radiator is top.
2nd best is radiator in front with hoses at bottom radiator.
3rd best is radiator in front with hoses at top but pump must be below top of radiator.
Never mount radiator in bottom because pump is highest point!!
 
VaderDSL said:
Could it be malware? I’d try a Linux live boot, see if you see high idles. If so, then it’s something hardware, if not it’ll be software?
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It only goes mad when I start up forza. Playing final fantasy 14 it never really stresses it enough to get going. And even without booting it idles over 60 degrees on the bios
Edit - I could try putting pc on its side and back up again, that's the only other thing I did when re pasting which could have moved an air bubble around
 
is your chip running completly stock in the bios?, if so i would say the problem is high auto voltage being fed to the cpu, easliy upward of 1.45v at stock, head back into your bios and find the cpu voltage setting, here change from auto and set 1.3v and save, go into windows and start up forza and see what your cpu does, with any luck your temps should be lower and with a 360mm aio they should be very good with a undervolted cpu
 
Mr Mcgoo said:
i'm leaning towards aio issues. check in bios to make sure your aio pump is running at 100% (4000+rpm) and test while gaming keeping your current fan profile as it.
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Fair point but if the aio had a issue you'd run into thermal issues idle in windows, a good 70-80 degrees doing nothing and thermal trip when you try to load anything, auto volts on all amd chips is far too high, they can work at or near there rated speed with far less volts and temps are way better as a result, it takes a matter of minutes to change it vs a hardware change.

if you have changed the voltage and still seeing high temps then i would look at the aio being a issue, but not before adjusting the voltage of the cpu
 
A good point wookiee as this chip has been a source of headache for a long time with stability. a while ago i had all kinds of problems with ram stability to the point of RMA'ing kits failing on memtest, only to find the only way of getting them stable was to lower the core base clock by 50mhz, then any xmp setting worked. I had to drop it more over time as the errors crept back in so the base clock is 3650mhz now, and the voltage is 1.18 on the core and the VDDCR. Dodgy I know, but seen as it's already set lower than the 1.3 and with nothing changed today it won't budge past 70 degrees on forza in the same spot as the shutdown happened yesterday! The only difference is i left the pc on its side for 15 mins or so last night
 
Mr crowley said:
A good point wookiee as this chip has been a source of headache for a long time with stability. a while ago i had all kinds of problems with ram stability to the point of RMA'ing kits failing on memtest, only to find the only way of getting them stable was to lower the core base clock by 50mhz, then any xmp setting worked. I had to drop it more over time as the errors crept back in so the base clock is 3650mhz now, and the voltage is 1.18 on the core and the VDDCR. Dodgy I know, but seen as it's already set lower than the 1.3 and with nothing changed today it won't budge past 70 degrees on forza in the same spot as the shutdown happened yesterday! The only difference is i left the pc on its side for 15 mins or so last night
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what speed ram are you running by chance, also a vocre of 1.18v is super low no way in hell you should see idle temps in the 50's and load temps should not go above 60 really, games differ from one another some are lite on the cpu and other are like a cinebench r23 and absolutly smash the cpu, i have the same thing happen, any of the divison games i play makes my 5950x run hot a good 75 degrees and i have a custom 420mm dual rad loop, i switch to destiny 2 and my cpu hits 48 degrees max.

It could be just the one game that is making things go wrong but again memory stability is very important too and if its not 100% corect you will get issues

EDIT

looked online and there are loads of issues being reported with users pc's shuting down amd and intel are affected, with regard to gpu's amd seems to be worse off so if you have a nvidia card you should have less issues, it looks to be a game bug not a harware problem
 
Memory is running at 3600mhz on the xmp setting with 1800 IF clock. TBH I can't remember why I ended up with such a low voltage, I'd have to search back through my posts as I think it was suggested to me and when it worked with the lower clock speed i've ran it like that since. Forza horizon 4 is where I had the most memory problems as it used to just CTD with no message, horizon 5 has done the same to me once so I dropped the core from 3700 at the time to 3650. GPU is an asus strix 3070 running at stock speeds with just the power limit raised so it boosts more.
Incidentally before it shut down, as I continued to play forza in defiance of the entire luftwaffe on the desk next to me the sound was bugging out, i use a creative soundblaster Z se card and it was switching from one ear to the other as the PC was over 85 degrees before the shutdown.
Thanks for the tips so far, it's a reality check what a radiator should be able to do! Just strange how it's been running well for the longest time
 
Could it be a partial blockage in the waterblock? It's a sealed unit granted, only thing I can think now are an issue with the mounting pressure or something internal, the fact the pump is running, either there had been a small leak, or partial blockage etc.?
 
The plot thickens, gaming on final fantasy tonight i start hearing a faint 'awooga' noise from inside the pc like something vibrating, now i'm a bit worried the pump is running dry somehow. Tilting the PC back reduces it for a few seconds but it comes back. Lian li support is not there till the 7th, I may try to use the filling valve on the side that's apparently on there if I think I can open it and keep the warranty in tact. If it's low i'll just find some distilled water or something. Just had to abort typing this, shut down and finish on my phone as it started constantly buzzing at me
 
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