Hive & Glow worm Ultimate 3 boiler

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 2277
  • Start date Start date

Deleted member 2277

Deleted member 2277

Hi,

Has anyone managed to get a Hive working with a Glow worm Ultimate 2 or 3 boiler?

I currently have a Ultimate 3 boiler with a climapro 2 remote connected to it. I have set the remote to always on and then connected the Hive to the RT connections on the boiler. At first I thought it was working fine but it seems to get confused and I have to power the boiler off to get it to work again. The remote is connected to the eBus connection via a wireless unit.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If ever there was a post which highlighted the disjoint between functionality and buzzwords for upselling purposes, this is it.


I can't offer any help but this seems like one of those cases where Silicon Valley decides to take on technology that's been around for centuries and add their spin, adding a truckload of unreliability in the process.
 
If ever there was a post which highlighted the disjoint between functionality and buzzwords for upselling purposes, this is it.


I can't offer any help but this seems like one of those cases where Silicon Valley decides to take on technology that's been around for centuries and add their spin, adding a truckload of unreliability in the process.

Most people's heating systems are either archaic or incredibly inefficient. Most people's condensing boilers are even condensing in the UK.
 
If ever there was a post which highlighted the disjoint between functionality and buzzwords for upselling purposes, this is it.


I can't offer any help but this seems like one of those cases where Silicon Valley decides to take on technology that's been around for centuries and add their spin, adding a truckload of unreliability in the process.
These are just brand and model names of (UK) boilers and thermostats, nothing really 'Silicon Valley' about it. Glow worm has been around since at least the 70s!
 
Hi,

Has anyone managed to get a Hive working with a Glow worm Ultimate 2 or 3 boiler?

I currently have a Ultimate 3 boiler with a climapro 2 remote connected to it. I have set the remote to always on and then connected the Hive to the RT connections on the boiler. At first I thought it was working fine but it seems to get confused and I have to power the boiler off to get it to work again. The remote is connected to the eBus connection via a wireless unit.

How do you mean confused? I just fitted mine to a Worscter boiler, works fine long as the old thermo is always on as you said.
I noticed on mine to many changes to quick cause a backlog (reciever will flash green to indicate this) after 2-3 minutes its ok.
 
Most people's heating systems are either archaic or incredibly inefficient. Most people's condensing boilers are even condensing in the UK.

We got a new plumber/heating guy a few months ago. First thing I asked him was about my flue dripping (I'd asked another and they said without removing the boiler nothing could be done!), he went to touch it and the flue fell out! It hadn't been pushed in correctly, therefore wasn't sealed for a start and was at the opposite angle. So the year we'd lived there (the previous owner had it serviced just before we moved in...apparently) the boiler had never worked efficiently.

So new guy removed flue, re attached it, sealed inside and outside now at the right angle and set the temperature so it condenses. We'll see if the bill is any cheaper this winter :o
 
Most people's heating systems are either archaic or incredibly inefficient. Most people's condensing boilers are even condensing in the UK.

Is that because the return temp is too high?

How do you mean confused? I just fitted mine to a Worscter boiler, works fine long as the old thermo is always on as you said.
I noticed on mine to many changes to quick cause a backlog (reciever will flash green to indicate this) after 2-3 minutes its ok.


When the Hive demands heat the boiler display shows that the central heating is on but the burner doesn't light. I have read that the climapro remote has to be disconnected so I'm trying that now...fingers crossed.

If ever there was a post which highlighted the disjoint between functionality and buzzwords for upselling purposes, this is it.

Not sure about buzzwords... just brand names and a few descriptions of the connections on the schematic diagram!

Just noticed that this has been moved to home & garden, I didn't even know there was a home and garden section!
 
So new guy removed flue, re attached it, sealed inside and outside now at the right angle and set the temperature so it condenses. We'll see if the bill is any cheaper this winter :o

Hah well it should be. I found that the guy that serviced my boiler set temperatures which I can effect, which are sort of tolerance bands. This is annoying. But, I've set the nominal flow rate on my boiler to 55C so that I at least stand a chance of their being some condensing.

Next thing I'll be doing is getting pressure independent radiator valves and getting return temperature limiters for the towel rails. I doubt either of these things will do a massive amount to my bills, but I'll be happier having a more efficient home.

Is that because the return temp is too high?

Yup. Absolutely critical to getting your system running efficiently.

Towel rails are terrible, by the way. They essentially act as a bypass in your system because very little heat is transferred out of them. Flow rates are typically far higher than they require, which is why the return temperature limiter will be great.

I've just got to pysch myself up for draining the system and changing the valves...
 
Yup. Absolutely critical to getting your system running efficiently.

I have fitted a thermometer on my return and I have set the boiler temp to 70 deg so that the return temp is less than 55 deg which I believe is the critical figure. Please correct me if I have got it wrong!
 
The boiler seems to be working OK with the Hive now that I have disconnected the Climapro remote control.
 
Yup you need 55C back to the boiler, but how do you know that you're receiving the expected return temperature?

I have fitted a pipe thermometer on the return pipe just before it goes back into the boiler. This normally reads about 53 deg.
 
I have fitted a pipe thermometer on the return pipe just before it goes back into the boiler. This normally reads about 53 deg so I assume that the boiler would condense at this temp.
 
Back
Top Bottom