Take your cutting surface
Obviously in my case, this is my new PC343B top after managing to push out all the bends that Parcel force had decided to put into it for free... bless them.
Prep your cutting surface
Good ol' masking tape, I used some nice wide stuff which doesn't leave residue - worked really well. You can just cover where your cut will be, but I decided to cover the whole top just to protect it whilst on the work bench. I used one layer here, but I would put two over the actual area where the hole saw will be doing it's thing. Just in case you slip, which shouldn't happen if you follow the guide.
Measuring where you need your hole
This will mainly be for fill port users who want their fill port directly above their reservoir. For this I decided to use two methods. Actually measure from the side of the case to the middle of the barb on my EK res and mark out onto the masking tape. Then also get some 12mm dowel and screw into the top of the reservoir without barbs. Then top of dowel in paint and push up against the top panel whilst all mounted. Leaving me with a circle of pain, to which the center will be the center point for the drill.
Measure twice, cut once
Punch the center of the holes you need
Once you're happy with the measurements, then use a punch and hammer to get your drill bit a guide. I went with the measurements as the paint method agreed with me. Once you've made your drill guide, use either a 1 or 2 mm drill bit and then continue with larger sizes until you can drill the hole out with the arbor (drill piece used to fit hole saw to).
Preparing guide wood
You need a sturdy surface to clamp your work to now. I've put some wood on top of a Black and Decker Work mate, then the case panel. Now mark on some wood (which is big enough for the whole saw diameter and which is able to be reached by a clamp) where your hole is roughly.
Drill pilot hole
Drill a pilot hole the same size as the arbor (this will match the size of the hole in the case panel we drilled earlier. This will then be lined up with the hole in the case. This will steady the hole saw as we go through the wood. The arbor will also held steady as it will be drilling into the wood under the case panel when the hole saw hits. This pilot wood doesn't need to be thick, ~5mm is good.
The setup
So here we can see the clamp (clamping down Pilot wood / case panel / wood / work surface) and the second hole saw being done. Make sure your hole saw is securely attached to the arbor and the arbor securely attached to the drill. Go slow through the wood and once you've got to the metal up the revs a bit. Use your non drilling hand to support the other side where the clamp isn't.
Success!
You will know once you've gone through the Aluminium as you will see bits of the case being kicked out by the hole saw. Make sure you clear out any layers of wood / Alu from inside the hole saw if doing more than one.
Obviously in my case, this is my new PC343B top after managing to push out all the bends that Parcel force had decided to put into it for free... bless them.
Prep your cutting surface
Good ol' masking tape, I used some nice wide stuff which doesn't leave residue - worked really well. You can just cover where your cut will be, but I decided to cover the whole top just to protect it whilst on the work bench. I used one layer here, but I would put two over the actual area where the hole saw will be doing it's thing. Just in case you slip, which shouldn't happen if you follow the guide.
Measuring where you need your hole
This will mainly be for fill port users who want their fill port directly above their reservoir. For this I decided to use two methods. Actually measure from the side of the case to the middle of the barb on my EK res and mark out onto the masking tape. Then also get some 12mm dowel and screw into the top of the reservoir without barbs. Then top of dowel in paint and push up against the top panel whilst all mounted. Leaving me with a circle of pain, to which the center will be the center point for the drill.
Measure twice, cut once
Punch the center of the holes you need
Once you're happy with the measurements, then use a punch and hammer to get your drill bit a guide. I went with the measurements as the paint method agreed with me. Once you've made your drill guide, use either a 1 or 2 mm drill bit and then continue with larger sizes until you can drill the hole out with the arbor (drill piece used to fit hole saw to).
Preparing guide wood
You need a sturdy surface to clamp your work to now. I've put some wood on top of a Black and Decker Work mate, then the case panel. Now mark on some wood (which is big enough for the whole saw diameter and which is able to be reached by a clamp) where your hole is roughly.
Drill pilot hole
Drill a pilot hole the same size as the arbor (this will match the size of the hole in the case panel we drilled earlier. This will then be lined up with the hole in the case. This will steady the hole saw as we go through the wood. The arbor will also held steady as it will be drilling into the wood under the case panel when the hole saw hits. This pilot wood doesn't need to be thick, ~5mm is good.
The setup
So here we can see the clamp (clamping down Pilot wood / case panel / wood / work surface) and the second hole saw being done. Make sure your hole saw is securely attached to the arbor and the arbor securely attached to the drill. Go slow through the wood and once you've got to the metal up the revs a bit. Use your non drilling hand to support the other side where the clamp isn't.
Success!
You will know once you've gone through the Aluminium as you will see bits of the case being kicked out by the hole saw. Make sure you clear out any layers of wood / Alu from inside the hole saw if doing more than one.
