House alarm advice, trying to change alarm but keep sensors.

JasonM

JasonM

JasonM

Soldato
Joined
19 Jun 2009
Posts
3,982
I've purchased a re-processed house, the house has an existing alarm that I currently can't activate and require help and advice.

Firstly i'll say whats in the house and currently working and not working.

1)

In the hall way I have a Texecom Veritas control panel. Is it identical to the one in url below

https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/...39135giy5MlevtO7zr0Wzb783SO5N-sOmkwgghBBzUQ9w

This control panel is dead, can't operate it, there are no lights or sound when pressing any buttons.

2)

Under this control panel is a second control panel for controlling zones. It looks identical to this.

https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/...qHAWcAdd48dfeN6ZxXbzOphMoNDWSc5VDnW9n7L80Vnwa

This is working, as it lights up when doors are opened etc. It sometimes beeps and I have to turn the beeping off.

3) There appears to be modern infrared sensors around the house. The infrared sensors are not lit, however there is a number of door sensors and I presume these are triggering the control box above. All the sensors are wired in very neat and it would be a shame to remove these.

4) On the outside of the house there is 3 alarm boxs (front, back and side) they say 'Vital Alarms' but their web address is no longer active. No lights have ever been seen on the alarm boxs so presume they are dead. Again the alarm boxes look pretty modern and new.

I would like to fit another alarm that has SMS text function. However I would like to re-use as much of the existing components as I can. I expect I can re-use the sensors, however unsure what can be re-used after this.

Would be grateful for anyone to read over the above and offer some advice.

Thanks
Jason
 
Last edited:
I am not an alarm man but I reckon your first picture is remote keypad - don't recognise the other picture - I have a keypad the same but my control panel is in loft - It seems as though it could be turned off - have you found any other box's. There may also be a fused spur to isolate the alarm panel.

Years ago I found a forum that was for alarm people and they were pretty good with advise - With their help I found out how to reset an alarm panel in mates renter and we then just programmed it for him.

Dave

ps -- looking at second picture again - how big is it in size?
 
Last edited:
You need to find the location of the main control panel, this is the point to which all the sensors, bell boxes and keypads will be wired.

I would kill the power to the house and see what happens, if it all goes dead then great, but the main control panel should have a battery backup in it, and probably the bell boxes too.

I'd decommission the old system, i.e. remove the control panel lid, kill its power and battery backup, and any battery in each bellbox, then i would buzz through all the wires for each senor, write down how its wired, remove the existing control panel, replace with a new system, replace the keypads, bell boxes and internal sounders.

Job done.

But it's not easy to do, particularly if the system is quite large, make sure you get a system with enough zones.
 
Last edited:
quoting:

"switch supply off (mains) to unit open cover and disconnect battery wait a few seconds then re attach battery. unit will bleep the tamper spring at top of cicuit board on veritas 8 press in and out slowly 3 times this will revert panel back to factory settings go to key pad and use code 4321 or 1234 this will silence any alarms at this stage dont press reset put cover back on panel reinstate mains power then press reset panel will work normally you will need to re programme zones and exit/entry times etc"


That seems correct based on what I remember about this, hopefully it will save you buying a new panel.
Although you will need the keypad to be functional beforehand :)

(Worst case senario is Engineers password has been set, in which case new panels are £30, unscrew old one & replace)



1. That's a Veritas remote, def keep the panel as these things are £20

2. Picture taken with a mouldy potato, so no idea. Better pic please, some internal pics too.

3. Sensors may not have walk LED enabled

4. Two will be probably dummies, nothing gets lit until the panel is set.


You can add an SMS dialer to any alarm panel, I think one Veritas panel has a connector for this to make it easier.


There will be a control panel somewhere in the house (follow the wires)
Take the panel cover off, take a few pictures (not with that potato!!!) so we can work out why it's not powered
 
Last edited:
Thanks for everyone's help, there is some quite detailed responses above and it's very much appreciated.

Sorry about photos, I found these on the Internet. I don't have camera with me at the moment, however this weekend will take good photos and post here.

Since posted the original thread I have discovered the key pad is a Texecom Veritas R8. It appears the control panel (main control) is even switched off or at least the battery backup has gone flat. This Saturday i'm going in the atic to try and find the control panel, I have looked everywhere else and atic is only place left.

Texecom make a dailer that can be added onto this existing system, model CGC-0001, so bitslice you were correct about adding a dialer. This can do SMS but it connects to wired phone line, and is not GSM, I'm going to investigate to see if a regular GSM from another company can be added.

bitslice, thanks for finding those instructions above. If an engineers password has been set, what is the worse case. Would all the alarms be active on the house, and then be unable to silence them? Or would it just be the case i'm unable to arm the system.
 
Last edited:
JasonM said:
If an engineers password has been set, what is the worse case. Would all the alarms be active on the house, and then be unable to silence them? Or would it just be the case i'm unable to arm the system.
Click to expand...
If set then panel is scrap, in the old days you could just reprogramme the serial memory chip.

IIRC without the engineers pwd you won't be able to reprogram zones or set the alarm, it's very unlikely someone will have set this though. The user pwd would reset any alarms.
Just in case you didn't know, the panel is quite a good one.

some handy info :)


Texecom Veritas R8

user manual
http://www.texe.com/uk/document.php?serveid=280
http://www.texe.com/uk/document.php?serveid=281

installation manual
www.crosbyintruder.co.uk/File/pdf/Veritas8-R8%20Installation.pdf



typical GSM dialer
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/221217773365


Before final configuration, get new batteries for the alarm and the bell box, then they should be trouble free for a few years.
 
Last edited:
bitslice, thanks again for all your help.

Re the engineers code. If it has been set, what is risk of having bells active, but not able to disable them. I'm concerned I enable power, alarm goes off, then can't deactivate.
 
JasonM said:
Re the engineers code. If it has been set, what is risk of having bells active, but not able to disable them. I'm concerned I enable power, alarm goes off, then can't deactivate.
Click to expand...
The user code will always disable the bells, that's what it is for.
Engineer code (if it exists) is just there to stop end users messing about with the settings or to force a notification of alarm (and for the service company to get a callout fee)

First check the panel battery is charged.

As you don't know the user code you'll have to reset the panel anyway (as above) and then user code will be default 4321, (and engineer code will be 1234)


If bell is using its internal battery and goes off for some unknown reason, you can force it off at the panel end by removing the wire from terminal B and holding it onto terminal A.
 
Last edited:
Jason

Glad Bitslice sorted you - I have the exact same panel which is why I recognised keypad but couldn't remember what main panel was - I fitted mine myself so if I can do it anyone can.

Good luck

dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom