how are rover zt things on parts/running costs?

find a lot out from here
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/index.php
i like them, but then i would as i have a 75
most parts are available
running cost it depends what you have

my out lay for my first year with my 75 diesel
oil filter £5
oil £17.99
gearbox oil free(my G/F`s dad)
2 headlight bulbs £16
airfilter £10

past its new mot with just a bulb for the numberplate needed
 
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ah thats good, not overly stupid on parts. how reliable would you say they are compared to a ford? i'm basing this on my ownership of fords as i can't remember the peugeot or fiat going wrong.
 
helpimcrap said:
ah thats good, not overly stupid on parts. how reliable would you say they are compared to a ford? i'm basing this on my ownership of fords as i can't remember the peugeot or fiat going wrong.
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i really depends on what engine you want
the 1.8-1.8T can have the K series HGF
the v6`s and the diesels(BMW engine) are the most reliable
sometimes when you read a forum that deals with 1 make of car it can scare some off, as you can see all the faults that can happen, but then thats the main reason for these forms, to help you when things go wrong .
there a very under rated car to be fair
even though rover have gone it didnt put me off getting my 75 and its been a great car to own n drive
 
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Best all round engine probably being the 2.0 Diesel unit, as it is an older BMW lump I believe? Edit: And after a diesel chip box type thing they can make 160ish BHP?
 
Are you after a manual or automatic? The clutch on the manual can be very expensive to replace as the master and slave cylinder are all in one and will cost around £600 to replace if either part goes and they can fail from anything over 50K.

Best to search this on http://forums.mg-rover.org or http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum

The clutches are covered under the AA breakdown repair cover and for £69 pound a year is worth getting.

Also the MG ZT 260 could be worth considering as the prices are starting to fall to the 6K bracket and avoids all the V6 problems but depends on mileage and how much your looking to spend on a car.

The V6's have problems with the Inlet manifold and vis motors, motors cost around £60 each (there are 2) and an Inlet manifold change is around £600. The thermostat is also a terrible design and can leak which obviously leads to coolant loss and then head gasket failure if overlooked.

Cam belt change at 6 years or 90,000 miles is around £600 again.

Rear spark plugs are a pain to get to so services can more expensive when they need changing but they have a life of 40,000 or 60,000 miles, (can't remember exactly)

The diesels are a good choice as they are chain driven but come with their own set of problems such as MAF sensor issues but I am not too clued up on those as I am the proud owner a Rover 75 2.5 V6.

The main engine cooling fan can fail on the diesels and petrol models. Pre-facelift is an expensive fix of £700 or more and the facelift model has an easy DIY fix of £5.

If you do want to go ahead and get one then my email's in trust and I will give you a buyers guide of checks if you wish.

I would recommend driving a few before dismissing them on the basis of the problems I have listed as they are actually a very good car to drive and the problems are well covered on the forums so you can actually fix most yourself if you so wish.
 
you will be looking at about 600-650 for all three.

the full timing belt kit is expensive as it has 3 bolts and a load of bolts, idlers and other replacement bits.
 
ah right so aside from making sure all 3 belts have been done the 2litre diesel is the best bet? then the v6?
but for best compromise on money etc the diesel is quite good?

i'm not so fussed about performance as i have nothing to compare it too and i just want something that will get me work and back. after i've had my license back for a year i'll look at something else but it's just something thats not going to cost the earth to run.
cheers for the answers so far.
 
Well i'm not sure if the diesel is the best one to go for really.

What fee do they command? last i saw the mg zt v6's were going for not much over £2000 and thats a really good deal when a lot of these are 7 years old now, so should have had all the belts done.

Oh and MG ZT in blue > all other colours :)
 
Usel said:
Are you after a manual or automatic? The clutch on the manual can be very expensive to replace as the master and slave cylinder are all in one and will cost around £600 to replace if either part goes and they can fail from anything over 50K.

Best to search this on http://forums.mg-rover.org or http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum

The clutches are covered under the AA breakdown repair cover and for £69 pound a year is worth getting.

Also the MG ZT 260 could be worth considering as the prices are starting to fall to the 6K bracket and avoids all the V6 problems but depends on mileage and how much your looking to spend on a car.

The V6's have problems with the Inlet manifold and vis motors, motors cost around £60 each (there are 2) and an Inlet manifold change is around £600. The thermostat is also a terrible design and can leak which obviously leads to coolant loss and then head gasket failure if overlooked.

Cam belt change at 6 years or 90,000 miles is around £600 again.

Rear spark plugs are a pain to get to so services can more expensive when they need changing but they have a life of 40,000 or 60,000 miles, (can't remember exactly)

The diesels are a good choice as they are chain driven but come with their own set of problems such as MAF sensor issues but I am not too clued up on those as I am the proud owner a Rover 75 2.5 V6.

The main engine cooling fan can fail on the diesels and petrol models. Pre-facelift is an expensive fix of £700 or more and the facelift model has an easy DIY fix of £5.

If you do want to go ahead and get one then my email's in trust and I will give you a buyers guide of checks if you wish.

I would recommend driving a few before dismissing them on the basis of the problems I have listed as they are actually a very good car to drive and the problems are well covered on the forums so you can actually fix most yourself if you so wish.
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the clutch master and slave arent all in one as stated here
also cooling fan isnt £700 for the preface lift, its around £300 and that can apply to the facelift model too(as the cheap fix doesnt always work)
MAF problem on the diesel is easly fixed
 
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ShakenNstirred said:
the clutch master and slave arent all in one as stated here
also cooling fan isnt £700 for the preface lift, its around £300 and that can apply to the facelift model too(as the cheap fix doesnt always work)
MAF problem on the diesel is easly fixed
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1- the slave and master 'should' be one, they 'should' always be replaced together but its true that you can get them individually. its just not recommended.

2- while the fan itself isnt £700 the more common issue is the control pack burning out and forcing the fan to run until that burns out a complete fix is normally about £700.

3- the maf issue is a easy fix, just replace the maf.

the bmw engine also has a hell of a lot of issues with the injectors causing running issues inc excess smoke, low power etc. we are currently changing a set of them a week.
 
1.8T:

- Headgasket can fail (and are more prone to this due to the excess heat from being more powerful than the standard K series)
- Run at about 160bhp (not too sure on the exact figures)
- Cheap to run, aside from HG issues.


2.5L KV6:

- Expensive to maintain due to the manifold rattle of death and VIS motor failure, both common but preventable
- 600 to 800 smackers for a cambelt and idler change, yeouch!
- Bloomin great drive though :D


2.0L Diesel (BMW)

- Reliable but not too great on fuel for a diesel
- MAF sensor issues spoil an otherwise near-perfect show. Expect to pay £150ish for a new MAF.


Have you considered a ZS120? The 120 is nippy and pretty reliable. :)
 
dalin80 said:
1- the slave and master 'should' be one, they 'should' always be replaced together but its true that you can get them individually. its just not recommended.

2- while the fan itself isnt £700 the more common issue is the control pack burning out and forcing the fan to run until that burns out a complete fix is normally about £700.
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I have an automatic so not really on top of what's involved with it but I thought it was an all in one design which is why people always moan about the cost of replacing it. My friend replaced his 2 months ago and it cost just over £700.

My prices I stated were for parts and labour and a complete fan housing with motors etc is about £700. Seems like you could try replacing the motors, control box and resistors and looking on ebay your still looking at £450 for the diesel and more for the petrol to replace those. Links: diesel = http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-75-ZT-Diesel-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Motor-PGJ000110_W0QQitemZ190291049082QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item190291049082&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A13|39%3A1|240%3A1318 and the petrol = http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370119735713&cguid=f1fdc6cd11f0a0aad2405640ff57af4e

P.S I am not disagreeing with you dalin80

To the OP:

To test if the cooling fan is working start the engine and turn on climate control with econ off. As long as the outside temperature is above 8c the cooling fan will spin. If it doesn't spin then it's faulty and the fan should then come in at full speed on and off every 30 seconds or so, you will be able to tell because full speed is very loud and you can hear it easily in the car with the doors shut.
The later models with the 2 speed fan is 9 times out 10 just a £5 resistor upgrade from the 50watt original to a 100watt resistor. The earlier 3 speed fan is possible to fix but a lot more difficult or not possible and usually a replacement is needed. The 2 speed fan came in at around the 53 plate models.

The heater matrixs can also become blocked which result in cold air on the passenger side and hot air on the drivers side. This is easy to identify on a test drive and can be fixed at home or at a garage, I was quoted £60 by my local to fix it.
 
rover416i said:
2.0L Diesel (BMW)

- Reliable but not too great on fuel for a diesel
- MAF sensor issues spoil an otherwise near-perfect show. Expect to pay £150ish for a new MAF.
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my 75 diesel is doing 39-44 round town and 50+ on a run
MAF`s, if its faulty get a Pierburg MAF(there only £55) and not the BMW(Bosch) MAF which is unreliable
also fit a synergy2 tuning box as this has a maf compensator for out of spec older MAFs(it boosts power between 1000-2000rpm were a out of spec MAF drops the power) and also boost power by 35bhp all the way though the rev range, with a good boost in torque too
 
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ShakenNstirred said:
my 75 diesel is doing 39-44 round town and 50+ on a run
MAF`s, if its faulty get a Pierburg MAF(there only £55) and not the BMW(Bosch) MAF which is unreliable
also fit a synergy2 tuning box as this has a maf compensator for out of spec older MAFs(it boosts power between 1000-2000rpm were a out of spec MAF drops the power) and also boost power by 35bhp all the way though the rev range, with a good boost in torque too
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The Synergy is similar to the TU1 I have fitted to my 400 derv, and it's brilliant :)

@Bobert: It does indeed, just failure rates have been higher on the turbo, although not by a huge amount. Enthusiasts also believe the extra weight of a ZT or 75 makes failure more likely, compared to a ZR or ZS, much like the Freelander HG issues with the 1.8K.

With any K series you run a risk - depending on how the car is maintained the risk can be small or large.
 
i like the k-series i think its a great light engine for light cars, yet the decision to put it into the freelander and 75 was just daft.

the 1.8's in the freelanders are under so much more load that it isnt just the headgasket that fails but frequently the liners themselves that crack.
 
Usel said:
I have an automatic so not really on top of what's involved with it but I thought it was an all in one design which is why people always moan about the cost of replacing it. My friend replaced his 2 months ago and it cost just over £700.

My prices I stated were for parts and labour and a complete fan housing with motors etc is about £700. Seems like you could try replacing the motors, control box and resistors and looking on ebay your still looking at £450 for the diesel and more for the petrol to replace those. Links: diesel = http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rover-75-ZT-Diesel-Radiator-Cooling-Fan-Motor-PGJ000110_W0QQitemZ190291049082QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item190291049082&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2|65%3A13|39%3A1|240%3A1318 and the petrol = http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370119735713&cguid=f1fdc6cd11f0a0aad2405640ff57af4e

P.S I am not disagreeing with you dalin80

To the OP:

To test if the cooling fan is working start the engine and turn on climate control with econ off. As long as the outside temperature is above 8c the cooling fan will spin. If it doesn't spin then it's faulty and the fan should then come in at full speed on and off every 30 seconds or so, you will be able to tell because full speed is very loud and you can hear it easily in the car with the doors shut.
The later models with the 2 speed fan is 9 times out 10 just a £5 resistor upgrade from the 50watt original to a 100watt resistor. The earlier 3 speed fan is possible to fix but a lot more difficult or not possible and usually a replacement is needed. The 2 speed fan came in at around the 53 plate models.

The heater matrixs can also become blocked which result in cold air on the passenger side and hot air on the drivers side. This is easy to identify on a test drive and can be fixed at home or at a garage, I was quoted £60 by my local to fix it.
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the master and slave are separate, but some say its best to replace both at the same time.
if your replacing the clutch plate then yes you may as well do the slave at sametime, as it plastic and does wear out, but if the master is fine you dont really need too.
when i got mine it had just had the clutch n slave replaced, but not the master.
that was in aug07 and the master is still fine
if you go on ebay you will see there separate
 
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