How is my watercooling spec?

Avathar77

Avathar77

Avathar77

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28 May 2010
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London, UK
Custom Cooling

After a lot of reading I have made up my mind about the list of components. Could you guys please have a look at this and let me know if I have missed any thing. Any advice offered would be a great help for me.

I am not an amateur for pc hardware(at least I like to think so :D) but this is my first water cooling build, and it terrifies as much as it Interests me.

CPU block - EK Supreme HF Copper Plexi
Rad - XSPC RS Series 240mm Dual Radiator : RS240
Pump - Laing DDC-1+ Ultra Pump 600 L/hr 18W (MCP355) : DDC-1+ T
Pump top/Res - XSPC Laing DDC 200ml Reservoir Pump Top : Plexi
Tubes - Feser 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD (13-19mm) Tubing : Blue / UV Blue 3m
Fans - Arctic Cooling Arctic F12 3-pin 120mm High Performance Case Fan x 2
Fittings - 1/2" ID - 3/4" OD Silver Compression Fittings x 6
Petra's Tech PT Nuke Concentrated Biocide 10ml
deionized water 2.5l(from local super market)

So far this is going to be £190 (200 is my budget)

I am going to use water on the Q6600 CPU ONLY (for now), but I will be upgrading to an AMD PII x6 next year. Would like to keep every thing internally, thats the reason for my radiator pick, basically I have found out that most of the other 240 rads will not fit in the rear 2 fans of my case(Antec 1200).

Pump will be at the bottom of the case some what nearer to the bottom drive cage, I may remove the last drive cage just to have more space.
Rad as said will be at the rear 2 120mm fans, I may add another rad later on (for the GPU and mobo blocks) after my system upgrade next year, and when I do, I am thinking of putting a 240 rad in the front where the drive bays are now, or to put a 360 rad on the back of the case with the help of a rad mount.
But before that I would like to add a T line so that I can drain the loop easily.

P.S. There is absolutely nothing wrong with my current temps, idle in day time is 28 - 30C and Prime95 full load is 48 - 50C, with all the fans in the case at low except the big boy. Fenrir is spinning up to 1100 rmp mark with P95 full load. Reason for water cooling is mainly because I have been interested in water cooling since 2000, and now I think is the time for the plunge!
 
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Looks like you have thought your parts out well. 1 minor thing you will probably need more water though as you will use a fair bit to flush the rad and block, can always pop back to the supermarket. Other than that it all looks good :)
 
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Thanx for the advice! To be honest I completely forgot about the flushing part!
Have to still do some research on the deionized or Distilled water!

Is there any advantage/disadvantage of using a plexi or acetal top cpu block to a full copper block?

Do I have to use an anti corrosion liquid?

JeffyB
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Your build log was one of the things I read when I first started reading about watercooling, It is very nice indeed!

I have noticed that you used 45° Rotary Adapters to connect the compression fittings and then to the tubes, Is this because of the looks or the functionality?
 
Plexi is brittle and some people have had experiences of this cracking around the inlets. Acetal on the other hand is a lot tougher.

I dont use anything anti corrosive just distilled water and a silver coil in my res to keep the microbes away.

I used the rotaries as i could not fit the large 3/4od compressions side by side on the heatkiller, the res or the gpu block. They do help make the routing of the hose a lot easier though, needing much less tight bends.
 
k3vst3r said:
swiftech XT is meant be really good
Click to expand...

I have read a review on skinneelabs showing EK Supreme HF is better than swiftech XT!
http://skinneelabs.com/ek-supreme-hf.html?page=4

With included low restriction plate it is even better by the looks of it. How ever have to do this by not removing the warranty void sticker which is meant to be at the side of the block!:mad: (houdini:confused:)
 
I have the hf full nickel, amazingly built and finished block. Plate no.1 is now the stock plate so no need to open it up, incase you need to...

From Eddy EK
"The Warranty void sticker is there to confirm the block was tested for leaking.
If customer openy up any of EK blocks and breaks the seal, it only means that he cannot rma the block for leaking.
The rest of the warranty (material and manufacturing) is still there!"

Taken from http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=247072 post number 12 :)
 
Ok, think I am gona go with the full copper EK Supreme HF one. Its about £10 more (Cu/Plexi one is about £45). Going slightly over the budget(just as things happen with me and my budgets!)

Also is it important to have clear tubing so that you can see the bubbles(if there are any) specially when you are priming the loop? I really like those white High Flex Tubing(XSPC) but worried about not being able to spot the bubbles in the tubes.

JeffyB
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Thanx for the info on the warranty sticker! Don't have to hire a houdini act any more!
 
Having clear/translucent tubing does help see the bubbles a lot but it's not too difficult to do once you understand the game of man and bubbles. Similar to cat and mouse but with more upside down pc cases and some gurgling.
 
I am trying to put a T line to my loop.

But I can not find any nickel coated brass T fittings! All I can find is Nylon T fittings, and they also have barbs not G1/4 thread.

Any one know any place I can get them?
 
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