How Much Torque Do I Really Need on a Cordless Drill?

radderfire · 23 Mar 2016 at 14:39

Hi Guys

I am still looking at cordless drills. I have been to look in the shops, and have seen torques of 30, 50 and 60Nm. How much torque do I really need?

I do have a corded 600W masonry impact drill. However, I can see the cordless being much more convenient, so I guess I want one up to most jobs, so maybe able to drill say 6mm holes in masonry too. Certainly good enough for drilling all holes in timber for constructing things. What is the minimum torque you would go for? I don't want to underbuy and find it's not up to the job.

Thanks

radderfire · 23 Mar 2016 at 14:55

Also, which batteries are better, Li-ion or Nicad? Thanks.

theone8181 · 23 Mar 2016 at 14:58

Li-ion is better, as for torque, more is better i guess?

Street · 23 Mar 2016 at 15:03

My Dewalt says it's 60Nm and since I've had it I've not used my corded masonry drill at all!

NickK · 23 Mar 2016 at 15:09

The answer is 'enough for a one handed hold'.

I use an old green Bosch PSB 18V LI-2. The advantage is that it has a few torque clutch settings - so rather than over tighten, the bit stops attempting to turn at a given tightness.

Lithium Ion (Li-ion) are better as they don't have the same memory issues.

It will do 10mm masonry bits through block and easily do 6mm into brick etc. I've put up large raw plugs (long enough to old 18Kg with two screws without breaking plaster).

It's balanced and light enough to hold in one hand (also has a second detachable handle).

No idea of the torque.

If I want torque/heavy drilling then I switch to the blue Bosch 850W SDS. I was screwing big screws into fence posts with an adaptor chuck. The difference is that the SDS has a variable speed but doesn't offer the protective torque settings that the PSB does. Went in like butter but the torque snapped one screw bit cleanly in two.

If you want effective screwing then an impact driver - it uses a rotational hammer action to screw in the screws without needing to pre-drill screw holes. No point in torque if you can't hold it where as impact driving seems a bit easier to hold.

Mark A · 23 Mar 2016 at 16:06

If you only need it to put the odd shelf up then go ahead and get a cheaper 30nm DIY drill. If you might want to do some more adventurous DIY in the future, like decking etc then go for something more manly. 30nm wont sink longer screws very well, if at all. You will need to pilot hole everything. If you ever need to use a hole cutter or a large drill bit you will struggle. Even my 60nm drill sometimes locks up when drilling big holes, so a 30nm will be useless IMO.

You seem dead set on that over priced Makita in your other thread lol.

radderfire · 23 Mar 2016 at 22:25

Mark A said:
You seem dead set on that over priced Makita in your other thread lol.

Thanks for all the comments guys. I'm definitely not going to buy that 30Nm Makita now, I will go for something 50-60Nm I think.

DXP55 · 24 Mar 2016 at 08:40

My theory has always been - look around till you find what you want then get next model up - That way you will never say "I wished" - After a few weeks you never notice the extra cost.

Avalon · 24 Mar 2016 at 10:24

Bosch or Makitta, Ni-cd is fine, Li-ion is better. Buy a decent drill and it will last a lifetime, if/when it needs parts, a new battery or a new body you can source them cheaply and easily. Buy something unknown and you will find it harder and usually more expensive.

Street · 24 Mar 2016 at 10:40

Avalon said:
Bosch or Makitta, Ni-cd is fine, Li-ion is better. Buy a decent drill and it will last a lifetime, if/when it needs parts, a new battery or a new body you can source them cheaply and easily. Buy something unknown and you will find it harder and usually more expensive.

My boss is awful for buying cheap drills.. They break constantly and he buys another one every few months. He's spent more on his than I spent on my one good drill that will out last all of his!