I have just set up my first cpu loop , and would like to now how tight should the fittings be done up ? It is the Phobya UC-1-LT black edition . There were no instructions in the box so I had to wing it any way , and if you have ever fitting this block you'll now that it is a pain in the arse . One of the most awkward things I have ever had to do .
How tight to tighten a cpu block ?
- Thread starter paulstung
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Yes l know what you mean, my Heatkiller block for the CPU, had instructions in German but it had a diagram as well giving the height from the mobo to the top of the screw, l think it was about 28mm so l used a 6" metal ruler with a bit tape round the end to insulate it and checked each screw as l tightened them down.
Found the core temps more even doing this, just a little tip after a week just nip each screw a tad more as the paste has settled down.
Found the core temps more even doing this, just a little tip after a week just nip each screw a tad more as the paste has settled down.
I changed my block today the one I ordered as a first choice was out of stock ( from a 2nd store ) so my 2nd choice got fitted . But they must have found 1 of my first choice and it came earlier .
It had instructions this time even a diagram , but still no mention of how tight . I done your trick with the tape and ruler with my tape and ruler , just be be sure . Great minds ah..
It had instructions this time even a diagram , but still no mention of how tight . I done your trick with the tape and ruler with my tape and ruler , just be be sure . Great minds ah..
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I'm using a standard Aqua block ( i think I got it off a friend, it's not labelled ) can having the block too tight kill the cooling because I have been tightening my cpu blocks up as much as I can recently?
I used a Raystorm on mine and it has to be the most useless mounting mechanism in the world. It comes in 3 parts that in no way actually stay together so trying to put the 4 screws into place and screw them into the backplate, which has no sticky tape on is near impossible.
Whole thing fell apart a good 8 times and I ended up having to use a full tube of thermal paste after cleaning it off my hands and table.
Whole thing fell apart a good 8 times and I ended up having to use a full tube of thermal paste after cleaning it off my hands and table.
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my current mounting mechanism is literally 4 screws, 8 rubber washers and a bolt to hold them down works great
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The sticky tape is under the white rings on the backplate.
Wasn't a big fan of tightening down the Raystorm, very easy to put too much stress on the clamping plate as the entire stand-off is threaded, to the point my plexi clamp plate started to show signs of fracture.
Supreme HF mounting was by far the easiest I've used as you can only tighten the knuts down so far then its job done
Supreme HF mounting was by far the easiest I've used as you can only tighten the knuts down so far then its job done
Yeah, I noticed that but there is such a small amount they may have well not even bothered.
What socket? When I used the Raystorm on 1155, it was near impossible to remove the backplate when I changed boards, the thing was beyond stuck
1155, they seem to have changed the back plate to somehow be worse, there is only double sided tape around the screw holes now and not all over the back.
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Oh yeah it's barely useful lol. I had to remove the mobo from the case an balance it in mid air to fit the raystorm
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That is pretty standard for fitting most cpu blocks; you need to be removing the motherboard and assembling outside the case, the backplates are horrible though I prefer screws and washers. But imo corsair ones are the worst.
Wow that is bad, almost the entire backplate was covered on my Raystorm!!
Go socket 2011 and don't worry about using backplates
Wow that is bad, almost the entire backplate was covered on my Raystorm!!
Go socket 2011 and don't worry about using backplates
I could barely afford this water cooling kit never mind a change to 2011 haha.
Shame it's all turned out to be a little poop.
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the raystorm is the only block i've used where i've had to.
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This kind of backplate?
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That looks like a backplate for one of those corsair air coolers that has a little bit too much fluid in it
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Yeah I had one for my now abandoned H70 which was very fiddly and when I tried to lay the motherboard down so I could screw in the front plate it would just fall out so more or less had to line up the motherboard on top of the pins and drop it onto it.
Actually I found the Raystorm to be a breaze , I switched out a Phobya uc1 and that was a pig to fit . No backplate and just 4 bolts 4 springs and 4 nuts . Plus no instructions . With it being my first foray into water cooling it was awefull . The temps were just bad with the phobya too , you could tell the flow was bad cos after bleeding and ran for 24hrs air bubbles would appear on the outlet hose , it happened 2 days on the trot . My Silver arrow SB-e was better . But as soon as I swapped it for the Raystorm problem solved temps to be expected . I have heard with the Phobya remove the black flow thingy from inside the block sorts it .