How to add a second wire to car battery?

ShiWarrior

ShiWarrior

ShiWarrior

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I have a Cellink Neo 9 and it requires me to wire 1 wire directly to the battery

thing is, i don't wish to touch the original wire that is on the battery (obviously i'll have to disconnect it when im installing)

Is there a way to keep existing cable as it is and add another wire to the battery ?

i have one of these batteries
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/...a3868815a1d989c2cdc0b6a6272b3226b9ba10&000020

the wire attached to these have big clamps on them

thanks
 
Are you not able to use a fuse-tap inside the cabin instead? This is how I fitted my mums dashcam in her CR-V which has been fine for months. I just piggybacked one of the fuses that's plenty of headroom that runs on ACC. One of the 12V sockets I believe.

Running direct from the battery (which is as simple as clamping a new wire on the terminal with an inline fuse near the battery end) you'll still have to figure out a signal to only start on ACC otherwise it may constantly drain the battery.
 
no not at all

Actually the thinkware was recommended by other ocuk users as i needed parking mode because of where i work and my next door neighbour
the Thinkware isn't lasting as long as i need it to, so i bought the cellink
 
How will this not constantly draw from the battery? Unless you want dash cam protection for when the car is parked and stationery, I don't see how this is a sensible thing
 
Cellink only draws from the battery when the engine is running until it is charged.
When you switch the engine off, the dashcam uses the cellink battery not the main battery
 
ShiWarrior said:
its not the dashcam , its the battery pack!
Click to expand...

Again, it's (presumably) a small LiPo battery pack... How much current does that need?! It's not like it's a second lead acid car battery!

Edit: Just googled it

Input
Car cigarette plug DC 14.6V, 5A
Direct connection (Fuse box) DC 14.6V, 9A

So 9A.

Like I said :p That definitely does not need to be wired directly to the battery. Since you've already done it, I hope you added an inline fuse.
 
it draws 15A hence why it has to goto the battery directly as per instructions
(i need a fast charge because of the short journeys i do) and i have 2-CH

on the link i posted :

Charging Time 1 hour and 10 minutes - (10A)
45min - (15A)
 
Well as a “heads up” it’s really important to put a suitably rated fuse in such a cable, close to the battery / before it enters the cabin. If you don’t, it’s a fire risk under certain situations.

Sorry if you knew this already, just looking out for others. I’m only guessing you may not have been aware of this as you was seeking general advice on suitable connectors etc.
 
yeah, it comes with a 40A fuse as per picture and instructions :)

thanks for the warning, good to see other people looking out for others :)
 
Well, as LiPo batteries constantly charge (when they drop to 99% they charge, drop, charge, drop), wiring it directly to the car battery will drain it, maybe not in a day, but added to that the fact you only do short journeys, you are already not maximising the efficiency of your car battery

Are we sure the instructions are not lost in translation somewhat?
 
Django x2 said:
Well, as LiPo batteries constantly charge (when they drop to 99% they charge, drop, charge, drop), wiring it directly to the car battery will drain it, maybe not in a day, but added to that the fact you only do short journeys, you are already not maximising the efficiency of your car battery

Are we sure the instructions are not lost in translation somewhat?
Click to expand...

The whole idea behind the system is that it only charges while the battery is being charged and then the lithium battery powers the cam. It's specifically designed so it doesn't drain the car battery. When a car is a running the voltage is going to be anywhere from 13 - 14.5v. I dont imagine it takes very complicated circuitry to have the lipo charge when the voltage is above 12.8 volts (resting voltage of a 12v car battery).
 
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