Soldato
I see lots of people with clicking issues on various mice. Often they conclude the mouse is dying and needs replacing. However this is frequently not the case and the fix requires a smidge of fine motor skills and parts that cost less than a quid. Often the part at fault is an Omron D2FC-F-7N switch which is very common in many mice, Steelseries, Razer, Logitech etc. They aren't bad, in fact most start to fail after many years of heavy gaming. Or "accidents".
Firstly identify that your mouse uses on of these switches. Google is your friend. If it doesn't the principles can probably still be applied.
You'll need:
A screwdriver for opening your mouse
A very small (~1mm) flathead for opening the switch.
A pair of fine tipped tweezers.
A replacement D2FC-F-7N switch* (I recommend getting a couple)
(Optional) Replacement mouse feet in case you damage yours opening the mouse
Step 1: Open your mouse
Again google is your friend here, search for a teardown or disassembly. Or just start undoing screws and pulling things apart. Often there are screws under the feet so be careful when removing them not to damage them. Replacements are cheap from china though. Keep all the screws in a safe place and remember where things plug in.
Step 2: Find the faulty switch and open it.
Here is my faulty switch, you can clearly see the damage but often it's not as obvious.
To open it just push the small flathead in between the switch and the case (red), push it out (green) and then pull it up (yellow). Be careful to keep a hold of the white button (purple)
Once off you'll probably find the copper plate inside is warped. Many guides end here recommending to flatten the warping and put everything back together. However I found that the switch will never feel right again and for the price it's worth replacing.
You can clearly see a dink in the plate despite the potato quality.
Step 3: Remove the plate
Easiest way is to grip by near the middle (red) with the tweezers and pull it in the direction shown (orange). This is good practice for when you put in the new plate.
Step 4: Swap the plates.
Now you have to be careful. Remove the plate from the new switch as you did in step 3. Then place it in the old switch by reversing the process. Hold the plate in the middle (red), line up the plate and switch near the tall prong (purple), pull it the other way (orange) and line up the plate and switch on the left (green). This can take a few attempts but the plates are fairly resilient
Step 5: Put it all back together.
Easiest way to get the cover back on the switch it to place it upside down with the white button correctly in the hole and then push the switch into it (make sure it's the right way round).
Plug the mouse in and give it a few test clicks to ensure it works then put your mouse back together again. Job's a good'un.
Extra things of note!
*Not all D2FC-F-7N switches are the same. I bought 2 from the UK (left) which where the same internally as the mouse and 10 from china which were completely different (right). I have ordered 2 more switches from china, one set rated for 10 million clicks, another for 20 million. Both of these use the more robust style switch which I prefer massively.
The chinese ones disintegrate when you pull the plate out! So don't! If you get one of these switches then you can desolder the original switch and resolder the new one. I had a go for fun (plus changed the wrong switch so did it twice) and it wasn't too hard.
Turn the PCB over and remove as much solder from the 3 points (green) and gently pull the old switch off. Then just push the new switch in and resolder.
Firstly identify that your mouse uses on of these switches. Google is your friend. If it doesn't the principles can probably still be applied.
You'll need:
A screwdriver for opening your mouse
A very small (~1mm) flathead for opening the switch.
A pair of fine tipped tweezers.
A replacement D2FC-F-7N switch* (I recommend getting a couple)
(Optional) Replacement mouse feet in case you damage yours opening the mouse
Step 1: Open your mouse
Again google is your friend here, search for a teardown or disassembly. Or just start undoing screws and pulling things apart. Often there are screws under the feet so be careful when removing them not to damage them. Replacements are cheap from china though. Keep all the screws in a safe place and remember where things plug in.
Step 2: Find the faulty switch and open it.
Here is my faulty switch, you can clearly see the damage but often it's not as obvious.
To open it just push the small flathead in between the switch and the case (red), push it out (green) and then pull it up (yellow). Be careful to keep a hold of the white button (purple)
Once off you'll probably find the copper plate inside is warped. Many guides end here recommending to flatten the warping and put everything back together. However I found that the switch will never feel right again and for the price it's worth replacing.
You can clearly see a dink in the plate despite the potato quality.
Step 3: Remove the plate
Easiest way is to grip by near the middle (red) with the tweezers and pull it in the direction shown (orange). This is good practice for when you put in the new plate.
Step 4: Swap the plates.
Now you have to be careful. Remove the plate from the new switch as you did in step 3. Then place it in the old switch by reversing the process. Hold the plate in the middle (red), line up the plate and switch near the tall prong (purple), pull it the other way (orange) and line up the plate and switch on the left (green). This can take a few attempts but the plates are fairly resilient
Step 5: Put it all back together.
Easiest way to get the cover back on the switch it to place it upside down with the white button correctly in the hole and then push the switch into it (make sure it's the right way round).
Plug the mouse in and give it a few test clicks to ensure it works then put your mouse back together again. Job's a good'un.
Extra things of note!
*Not all D2FC-F-7N switches are the same. I bought 2 from the UK (left) which where the same internally as the mouse and 10 from china which were completely different (right). I have ordered 2 more switches from china, one set rated for 10 million clicks, another for 20 million. Both of these use the more robust style switch which I prefer massively.
The chinese ones disintegrate when you pull the plate out! So don't! If you get one of these switches then you can desolder the original switch and resolder the new one. I had a go for fun (plus changed the wrong switch so did it twice) and it wasn't too hard.
Turn the PCB over and remove as much solder from the 3 points (green) and gently pull the old switch off. Then just push the new switch in and resolder.
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