How to fix wall before painting?

EGuitarStar

EGuitarStar

EGuitarStar

Soldato
Joined
23 Dec 2009
Posts
3,252
Location
Earth
Hello all,

Yesterday I removed wallpaper which was on my living room wall, and it came off fairly easily though some paint did also come off during the process. I will be repainting the wall using an undercoat and then a dark colour.

What I want to know is, how do I prepare the wall? I've read online to plaster the wall make it smooth and flat and then paint.

There are no deep joints or cracks, just flakes of paint that has come off when the wall paper came off. I would like to do a good job with painting it.

If I used a ready mixed plaster, applied over the areas, smoothed over, sanded down, cleaned and then painted, would that be the correct process?


Pictures below.

IMG_20200202_172632974https://www.flickr.com/photos/eguitarstar/, on Flickr

IMG_20200202_172701576https://www.flickr.com/photos/eguitarstar/, on Flickr
 
Those walls look pretty decent to be fair. I would just fill in any impercetions with filler and sand. Its a REALLY boring job however but get it right and you'll be proud of the finish everytime you walk into the room.
 
You could try Caulk on a filling knife, or a filler sanded back to blend it in. Depends on how perfect you want it. The other option is to take the rest of the paint off, sometimes it'll come off like wallpaper in large sections with a sharp scraper, others times it'll be stuck on really well and come away in tiny coin sized pieces, in this case its not really an option.
 
Mine was like that but also full of screw holes - I just used Wilko filler mixed a bit runny and used a wide scraper to spread it over the bits that needed doing - don't be too fussy - sand down and paint. - Get one of those large sanding plates on a handle.
 
bear in mind that no matter how well you think its removed there will be wallpaper adhesive residue left on the wall and it can leave a nasty finish when painted over.
 
I’d just sand it with medium/coarse sandpaper if there aren’t more than a few layers of paint.

If there is more than a few layers use a fine surface filler to fill and then sand. Cheap wilko/screwfix ready mixed is fine and easy to work with. Just don’t try and use a fine surface filler for filling proper holes, that will not go well.

It shouldn’t take too long, surface filler sands really easily. Gyproc Easifil is great but it comes in giant bags which you don’t need, pricy and it also expires quickly.
 
bigfoot4616 said:
bear in mind that no matter how well you think its removed there will be wallpaper adhesive residue left on the wall and it can leave a nasty finish when painted over.
Click to expand...
Hot water
Washing up liquid
And some baking soda
Add some vinegar if it's really
Stubborn
And old rags/towels to rub it off
Leave for a day to dry or more
If it's not warm in the room
Before painting
Can always use an oil based primer
If you want too
 
As others have said, no need to plaster there.

When I stripped the wallpaper off our house when moving in and took off paint chunks. I sanded down the patches with a very fine grade sandpaper. Then sugar-soaped the entire wall. Then applied the base coat.
 
You'll need to fill where the paint has come off or it will show through. Don't sand the whole wall, you'll be there forever and die of dust inhalation. Sanding just the patches will make it worse as it won't sand flush.

I use a jointing knife for jobs like this. A small amount of filler applied over the patches then a very light sand when dry. It should only take 20 minutes.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/marshall...VhbTtCh2KjgDsEAQYASABEgK8jPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Last edited:
Gyproc Easifill the holes and Mirka's 5650CV dustless sander across the entire surface would make light work of that wall.
 
So here are some pictures of during the works and after.

IMG_20200209_075726 by Shahan, on Flickr

IMG_20200209_135716

Not yet completely done as i need to clean up the trims and edges. Any ideas on how to best get a straight line? I used masking tape but the paint bled through.

IMG_20200209_135754

I will be refreshing the white paint very soon.
 
Maccapacca said:
Common misconception, tape isn't for painting up to and on it bleeds through. You need a well used cutting in brush and a steady hand.
Click to expand...

frog tape is designed to do just that , I’ve used loads of it and it only ever bleeds through if I haven’t pressed it down properly

I’d always recommend the delicate surfaces variety though

@op

I would lightly sand around the parts where the paints missing with p240 grit sandpaper until flush then spot prime the plaster with no nonsense bare plaster paint (screwfix) a couple of decent coats should do it then re-sand lightly , this is how I’ve touched up a few bits in my house and they’re all invisible. - never mind you have already sorted it
 
One of those jobs
Where technique is required
And patience if not used
To doing it
Never used tape myself
Get an angled sash brush
Make sure you are standing on
Something that gets you
As close to eye level as possible
Rather than reaching up
Make sure you have decent light
In the room
Make the first stroke about
An inch or so below
The edge, don't try to get it spot
On first stroke
Next stroke works the first one
Up to the edge
If there's not a sharp edge
Where wall meets the ceiling
I always went fractionally onto
The ceiling
As long as you get it level all the
Way around this isn't
Really noticeable ~it's the lack of
A straight line that catches
The eye
And feather the lower part of
The wet paint to blend
Into the wall so don't leave a
Straight line a few inches
From the edge
And take your time no matter how
Long it's taking you
Watching a pro or someone who
Has done it often
Yeah they might fly round it
But if not used to it or dont
Have a knack for it
Then yes it's time consuming
Put a thin cloth on a scraper and
If hit the ceiling /adjacent wall
Use it to wipe it off
In a straight line
 
You've been so scared of cutting in against the ceiling that you've left it low in places. That's why the line looks wobbly. The key is to actually let the paint creep a mm onto the ceiling surface. This is only noticeable if your face is against the wall looking up. From every other viewing angle it will look crisp and straight.

Also make sure the brush has a wet surface to glide over. So run your brush an inch below (like said earlier) initially. Sweep back along that, position your brush for cut and then it will move effortlessly. Kinda hard to explain.

Lots of good videos on YouTube..
 
I'm painting my house at the moment and the walls are pretty dreadful. Lots of filler and lots of sanding and although I'm pretty happy with the results so far, its more that it's less bad than before. Would love to re-skim the whole place really but sadly I canne afford that...
I used standard masking tape in my old place and was completely ineffectual at stopping bleed. Spent a little more on yellow or green Frogtape and its worked a charm.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom