how to power a waterpump without PSU?

D1craig · 16 Mar 2019 at 21:29

so i have a cheap waterpump to use as a flusher for my new rads, can i power it without using a PSU? i have no idea how this would work lol.

if not can any of you tell me the name of a really cheap psu used for only this flushing please?

Demon · 16 Mar 2019 at 22:14

Depending on the pump, you can get small power bricks for a few quid that give you a molex or SATA power connector without needing a PC PSU.

And you can get SATA power to 3 pin pump test leads,
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-cable-pump-testing-adapter-wc-9cp-ek.html

Some combination of those should work

LuckyBenski · 16 Mar 2019 at 23:39

Personally I have 6, 9 and 12V supplies I've nicked from old electronics. Just normal power brick things from toys, keyboards, etc. I cut the plugs off and solder two solid core wires. Either push the wires into a fan plug, or figure out another way to join them up. I like to fit the 6V supply to a breadboard and fit a load of fans to that, to test my case airflow before i set the actual PC up in a case.

A 9V battery works well for fans but generally can't supply enough current to drive a pump.

LuckyBenski · 16 Mar 2019 at 23:41

Also if you're flushing rads, make sure you have a bowl for the gunk to settle in unless you have a filter. I put the pipe from the radiator on the bottom of the bowl and put the inlet to the pump near the surface of the water on the opposite side from the other pipe. That way, crud settles and isn't sucked back up by the pump inlet.

D1craig · 17 Mar 2019 at 10:11

It is for a mayhems blitz flush. I have been thinking of ways to do what you have suggested after the blitz part though. Considering using the kitchen sink tbh.

LuckyBenski · 17 Mar 2019 at 10:22

Don't use the Mayhem's Blitz radiator stuff through a pump! You don't know what the acidity will do to components. Unless you just want to flush water straight though in which case yeah, kitchen tap alternating with the shakey dance I'd say. I'd also do it in both directions through the rad.

D1craig · 17 Mar 2019 at 11:10

It says to do it with a pump. Even the video shows the guy doing it with a pump. You have to run it for 12 to 24 hours on radiators first use.

LuckyBenski · 17 Mar 2019 at 11:38

D1craig said:
It says to do it with a pump. Even the video shows the guy doing it with a pump. You have to run it for 12 to 24 hours on radiators first use.

Blitz kit part 1 is for new/new-to-you radiators - it's acidic and cleans gunk and corrosion. Leave in for 6-12 hours then rinse out.

Blitz kit part 2 cleans the entire system and is run for 24 hours through the finished loop. Based on the instructions at https://www.mayhems.net/products/mayhems-blitz-kit

There's nothing wrong with thorough cleaning ahead of time but as it can clean the entire loop, seems sensible to do it in situ.

D1craig · 17 Mar 2019 at 13:30

Hmm. I got 2 radiators from mayhems and they came with some stuff. 1 bottle of blitz and 1 xt nuke I think. Not sure what blitz it is though.

pastymuncher · 17 Mar 2019 at 14:02

If it came with a Mayhems radiator then it is part 2 only which can safely be run through the whole loop. You have to be careful which tubing you use with XT-1. Take a look at post #1227 in this thread so see what combinations are safe.

D1craig · 17 Mar 2019 at 14:13

I bought mayhems tubing because I've heard of the problems lol. Also still got.some coolant from last time which I think is mayhems also.

So do I need to get me some part 1 to clean the radiators then? Why would it come with the neutraliser but not the acid? I do have some stuff I bought ages ago to do a clean but never used it. Will check what it is when I get home.

pastymuncher · 17 Mar 2019 at 18:43

Part 2 isn't just a neutraliser for part 1 but it's a cleaner as well. The problem I have is that all you are doing is circulating the same fluid and any gunk it dislodges is either going to circulate endlessly or clog the blocks/radiator up again meaning you will have to strip the blocks anyway. That's why I have always used it with a inline filter. It's actually surprising how much a filter can pick up.

D1craig · 18 Mar 2019 at 10:12

Hmm. So I don't need the pump then. That's good. I'll sort it this weekend and hopefully have my PC running nice and cool.

pastymuncher · 18 Mar 2019 at 11:03

Yes, you do need the pump for part 2 as it's meant to be pumped around the loop for up to 24 hours. Part 1 is just for radiators so you don't use anything else for that but you don't have part 1 so it's a moot point.

D1craig · 18 Mar 2019 at 20:04

Yea I don't have part 1 but the amount of gunk he got from his new mayhems radiators is making me think I'm going to need some. Same brand as mine. I could just do the vinegar thing he does though.

He also says you don't need to pump part 2 around your loop. I'll be replacing all tubing and I may aswell clean my gpu block. It's a black 1 so worried the o ring might move when putting it back together and I wont be able to see it...

D1craig · 23 Mar 2019 at 18:22

So not sure I've got enough coolant left over from my last build. Its mayhems x1 UV blue. Can I just add some xt nuke and deionized water to top it up?

pastymuncher · 25 Mar 2019 at 11:29

No because XT nuke and X1 are different types of coolant with XT Nuke being Ethylene Glycol based. You could buy some UV blue dye and mix that with some de-ionised water but to be honest by the time you have done that it would have cost more than a 1ltr bottle of pre-mix.

D1craig · 25 Mar 2019 at 20:12

I was impatient and unsure so just used the nuke with di water. I’ll buy some dye.

So I bought a cheap fan hub/controller and it puts all my fans on full speed. So noisy. Any names for cheap ones that can change speed?