How to replace this tap ?

MehulLakhani

MehulLakhani

MehulLakhani

Associate
Joined
12 Jan 2003
Posts
1,226
Location
Watford
Hi All

Bathroom sink tap has failed, and have had to shut it off at the isolation valve. Am familar with some brands of taps with long tails etc, but this is puzzling me a little ?

What type of tap do I need , with tails/without ? Do I need to cut the copper pipe near the isolation valve ? Or replace the isolation valve ?

Thanks in advance











M
 
Last edited:
@MehulLakhani it's hard to work out from the pics but looks like the one feed plumbed straight into the tap from the isolation value but the other is using a Flexi?

If so i would cut half way up where it's earthed and fit a straight tap connector. Can then get a new tap with standard tails
 
Is the intention to replace the cartridge/valve or the entire mixer tap unit?

If it's just the cartridge that's busted and the plan is to keep the existing taps then you'd want something like this...

If the mixer tap itself is broken or you want to replace it there should be a long nut (you can just about see it in the 3rd image, furthest from the wall in front of the pipes opposite the push rod for the pop-up waste). Once that's unscrewed it should hopefully give you access to undo the pipe/tap fittings, if there's still not enough play to get a spanner in there you may need to unscrew the pipe from the top of the isolation valves so you can push the pipes up enough to get the spanner in to undo the tap fittings.

For peace of mind i would avoid flexitails (they can and do spring leaks because nobody replaces them in the recommended 10'ish years), especially if you've already got the pipework in place.
 
Murphy said:
Is the intention to replace the cartridge/valve or the entire mixer tap unit?

If it's just the cartridge that's busted and the plan is to keep the existing taps then you'd want something like this...

If the mixer tap itself is broken or you want to replace it there should be a long nut (you can just about see it in the 3rd image, furthest from the wall in front of the pipes opposite the push rod for the pop-up waste). Once that's unscrewed it should hopefully give you access to undo the pipe/tap fittings, if there's still not enough play to get a spanner in there you may need to unscrew the pipe from the top of the isolation valves so you can push the pipes up enough to get the spanner in to undo the tap fittings.

For peace of mind i would avoid flexitails (they can and do spring leaks because nobody replaces them in the recommended 10'ish years), especially if you've already got the pipework in place.
Click to expand...
Thank you , this is great.

I am going to try it myself, as really want to learn ! Lets see !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom