How to tackle this stud wall?

[Kohaashi]

Hello.

So I’ve recently started to strip the plaster off the wall (between the staircase landing and bathroom) and noticed that the bathroom floor protrudes past the stud wall, but also, there are timbers attached to the floor joist that also protrude the stud wall.

I need a level wall to fix the plasterboard to, so how would you best tackle the bits of timber to create a flat surface?
I could trim the floor boards that protrude past the stud wall, but can I also trim the bits of timber that are fixed to the floor joist? Or do I need to pack out the stud wall? Or take the stud wall down and rebuild it level with the bits of timber that are attached to the floor joist?

All suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Spoiler: Images

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[MassiveJim]

looks to me like those bits of timber form the stud wall downstairs, what is below ?
is there a wall this side of those timbers ?
I think just to keep it simple you would probably just pack out the timbers (studs) above to get everything level.

also what did this wall look like before you started tearing it down ?

 

[mattyg]

You'll have to batten out the existing studs to make sure the plaster board sits flush and over the floor boards that are protruding.
Don't over think it. Work out where the new boards are going to sit on the stairs and work upwards. See what size batten you can get away with

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

Looking at the pics, IMO you could trim the floor boards slightly since they seem to stick out past the rest of the woodwork framing and that may make it easier to get the whole thing where you want it.
Agree in general with others though. Work backwards from where you want the board to "sit". What framing do you need to add, add some packers to hold that in place.
If the gap is narrow however you could probably just go straight to grip fill (I would go solvented) assuming your going to attach the new framing to match some/all of the old timbers.
Then use a few screws to pull it to the exact position you want. You can remove the screws when its set.

Then when you board use screws that will go through into both pieces of timber.

 

[Kohaashi]

Thanks for the advice.

I was hesitant to pack it out because it appears as though the wall edges in towards the bathroom the further it extends away from the bathroom door.

The end nearest the door is only about 10mm out, but the end furthest from the door is around 20mm.

Should I be using different thickness strips, or should I just pack it all out by 20mm to accommodate the widest gap and then create thinner pieces for the part that is below bathroom floor level?

The plaster was stripped because it was damaged, probably due furniture going up and down the stairs.
The previous owners had just pollyfilled and papered over it, but I wanted to replaster it before we redecorate. I’ll also be stripping the other side of the wall ready for the bathroom renovation, but didn’t want to strip it all off before I had an idea how to tackle this side, else you’d be able to see someone sat on the loo from the front door.

Here are some more images showing the difference in width.

Spoiler: Images

Nearest the bathroom door
Image 1

Image 2 (to show the difference in width of the floor boards and the timber below that’s attached to the floor joist)

Furthest away from bathroom door
Image 1

Image 2 (timber attached to floor joist is approximately level with the protruding floor boards)

Length of wall

Thanks

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

Normally when packing out on things like door frames its just to hold them in place.
The screws/nails will go past the packing and into the main joist/timer/wall etc

If you use long enough screws to fix through the plasterboard into your existing stud then the packing is really just removing the ability for you to bow the board.
So you could pack strategic places, where your going to fix and go with that.

I still think chances are a trade is going to do that mainly with chemical as opposed to physical because of how time consuming it would be.
I wonder if you could in effect apply dot and dab approach. Adhesive decent chunks of the timber and push the plasterboard onto the dots to achieve the correct depth.

Could go wrong though

 

[mattyg]

Normally when packing out on things like door frames its just to hold them in place.
The screws/nails will go past the packing and into the main joist/timer/wall etc

If you use long enough screws to fix through the plasterboard into your existing stud then the packing is really just removing the ability for you to bow the board.
So you could pack strategic places, where your going to fix and go with that.

I still think chances are a trade is going to do that mainly with chemical as opposed to physical because of how time consuming it would be.
I wonder if you could in effect apply dot and dab approach. Adhesive decent chunks of the timber and push the plasterboard onto the dots to achieve the correct depth.

Could go wrong though

Not sure Dot and dab would be the best approach in between two walls that may be subject to some movement. plus it'll need a fair amount to bridge the gap
I think the best option would be to stud it out so its Plumb then add packers behind to make sure its solid. Looks like he may get a away with 3x2 turned on its side to take away some depth... Its hardly load bearing. Or metal stud.. Might be easier to fix

 

[ik9000]

You'll have to batten out the existing studs to make sure the plaster board sits flush and over the floor boards that are protruding.
Don't over think it. Work out where the new boards are going to sit on the stairs and work upwards. See what size batten you can get away with

this tbh. ^

That 15-16mm set back from the edge of the board feels like prime depth for a bit of 15mm plasterboard sat on the floorboard lip above, then a 2nd layer of 9-11mm board going over that going down to the quarter landing/stairs with a finish skim on top (if required).

Normally when packing out on things like door frames its just to hold them in place.
The screws/nails will go past the packing and into the main joist/timer/wall etc

If you use long enough screws to fix through the plasterboard into your existing stud then the packing is really just removing the ability for you to bow the board.
So you could pack strategic places, where your going to fix and go with that.

My inclination would be to fix the plasterboard to the studs using bugle-head plasterboard screws and brace up the studs every so often (600mm-1000mm) with horizontal noggins screwed/nailed to the studs. You can even use metal angle brackets if you're worried about skew-nailing. I wouldn't bother with adhesive, nor trust it onto timber if the performance of the plastic fascia boards around our windows currently peeling off the timber packers are anything to go by.

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

Not sure Dot and dab would be the best approach in between two walls that may be subject to some movement. plus it'll need a fair amount to bridge the gap
I think the best option would be to stud it out so its Plumb then add packers behind to make sure its solid. Looks like he may get a away with 3x2 turned on its side to take away some depth... Its hardly load bearing. Or metal stud.. Might be easier to fix

Oh agree I was just kinda thinking how a trade may botch it to make it quick as a maybe there is a better way a little outside the box.

this tbh. ^

That 15-16mm set back from the edge of the board feels like prime depth for a bit of 15mm plasterboard sat on the floorboard lip above, then a 2nd layer of 9-11mm board going over that going down to the quarter landing/stairs with a finish skim on top (if required).

My inclination would be to fix the plasterboard to the studs using bugle-head plasterboard screws and brace up the studs every so often (600mm-1000mm) with horizontal noggins screwed/nailed to the studs. You can even use metal angle brackets if you're worried about skew-nailing. I wouldn't bother with adhesive, nor trust it onto timber if the performance of the plastic fascia boards around our windows currently peeling off the timber packers are anything to go by.

Plastic is a bit different tbh it needs special adhesives really and people often cut corners and dont use them.
Wood to wood or plasterboard etc the solvented grip fills are really really strong. Especially as a secondary fix.

 

[ik9000]

Plastic is a bit different tbh it needs special adhesives really and people often cut corners and dont use them.
Wood to wood or plasterboard etc the solvented grip fills are really really strong. Especially as a secondary fix.

The adhesive is coming off the plastic rather than the wood which i guess makes sense that it would absorb into the timber better than the plastic.

 

[eddiemcgarrigle]

A double sheet of plasterboard might be a relatively cheap option or you could go with a sheet of insulation backed plasterboard and just notch out a channel to accommodate the floorboards.

 

[Mercenary Keyboard Warrior]

The adhesive is coming off the plastic rather than the wood which i guess makes sense that it would absorb into the timber better than the plastic.

Yeah thats pretty much what will happen if the wrong adhesive is used.
Plastic can be a pain, especially seeing as plastic is probably not even plastic as such most of the time.

The majority of the adhesives need one porous surface, this draws the "liquid" in, reducing the setting time, and helping to pull the two surfaces together.
Its quite clever when you read up on how these things work and why so efficient.