how to wire up cat5?

Easier than writing it out, just better to get it down on paper, can be easy to overlook something have already made cable cuts and be in a major FFFFFFFFFFFU position :D

I use a Clarity NTE5 faceplate which has IDC terminals on the rear to allow you to hardwire the DSL extension, this would be tidier and easier than running a patch from DSL faceplate to an RJ11 module. Something you might want to check on your ADSL Nation one?
 
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But as for sticking normal RJ45 / RJ11 onto the cable, that will be fine. Just when I want to buy a RJ45 wall socket I would need one suitable for stranded cable?
 
Have never put stranded cable into ends before personally. The plugs you want to use should be rated for stranded cable though.

Stranded cable is generally more flexible and less prone to breaking but solid core is generally better performing. Negligible in home use really but what kit you use will matter between the types.
 
Thanks. I appreciate your guidance. As not installed the cable yet. Would prefer to make 110% sure I have it spot on before routing through walls etc and crimping ends on.

I have bought 12 RJ45 sockets the other day from a local electrical specialist. No idea if there for solid nor stranded core.


Perhaps I should look around on line for some solid core Cat5e then.

I can always use the 30m from OCUK for something I would think.
 
I do not think you can buy faceplates for stranded cable, simply because stranded is for when flexibility is required, and solid for fixed installs. You would not need flexibility on a permanently mounted faceplate. Of course, I could be totally wrong!
 
Magic_x_uk said:
Thanks. I appreciate your guidance. As not installed the cable yet. Would prefer to make 110% sure I have it spot on before routing through walls etc and crimping ends on.

I have bought 12 RJ45 sockets the other day from a local electrical specialist. No idea if there for solid nor stranded core.


Perhaps I should look around on line for some solid core Cat5e then.

I can always use the 30m from OCUK for something I would think.
Click to expand...

Stranded is used for the Fly leads, crimp RJ45 to Crimp RJ45. From wall socket to wall socket use solid core.
Depending on how your kit is laid out, it's usually an idea where possible to run 2-4 to a point then run the cables back to a central place, like the loft/basement, and put a switch there. Makes life much easier later on than running stuff point to point because stuff invariably moves.
 
Sin_Chase said:
You can safely extend a fair distance assuming you are filtering at the BT master socket, which by the sounds of it you are with an ADSL Nation faceplate. I extend about 15 metres and have no loss of signal quality - train at the same speed plugged into my master socket as I do extended.

You can run an extension with proper 'BT style' 5mm cable or just plain old CAT5. It becomes a little more complicated but it's more than feasible.

ALA:

magick_switch2.jpg
Click to expand...

The dedicated 'RJ11' run in this diagram is unnecessary because RJ11 plugs fit into RJ45 sockets.
 
Yes they do, but for diagrammatic purpose it is labelled as RJ11 as that is what will be plugged into it. Seeing as his Master Socket is very very unlikely to ever move it would not really matter if he did use an RJ11 or RJ45 module. An RJ45 module would also be redundant and unusable if he used BT style extension cabling which does not have the full 4 pairs required for a proper RJ45 install.
 
In your earlier diagram you had a single RJ45 run to the master socket which connected to the LAN side of the router. The router then obviously plugs into the master socket.

When you changed the diagram to relocate the router you added an additional cable run which wasn't really required. The original CAT5e RJ45 wiring plus a pair of RJ11 to RJ11 patch cords would have achieved the same thing.
 
There was no master socket in the earlier diagram, just a router feeding the RJ45 port(s) which ran to other parts of the house.

The only diagram with a master socket was the last after the OP mentioned relocating the router, only then was illustration of it required. Running RJ11 next to RJ45 in the master socket location allows him to move the router AND have a live RJ45 port for other network equipment in that location, something you would not be able to do with a single port of ANY type that was used to relocate the router.

Not quite sure what your issue is to be honest. There is no "original wiring" as the OP has nothing installed yet. It's just different diagrams for achieving different things in different ways.

Yes you can plug RJ11 into an RJ45 port, do you have to? No. For the purposes of explaining to the OP what he could do does it matter? No. Is the master socket likely to move? Unless a BT engineer sees reason to - No. Therefore does it matter that a hard-wired RJ11 module with a single wired pair moves the DSL presentation into the loft and cannot be used as an RJ45 port afterwards? No.
 
The only issue (if that's what you want to call it) was that I couldn’t see the point of not using CAT5e for the entire install.

The text above your last diagram seemed to suggest that using proper ‘BT style' 5mm cable would be preferable to plain old CAT5.

Not using CAT5e cable to present the DSL connection could matter if the OP ever decides to go down the FTTC broadband route.
 
aaargh, how do you sort these cables out to fit in a rj45.
there so small.

i am following the 568-B Wiring method on http://www.lanshack.com/make-cat5E.aspx
but i dont understand the picture of the cable on there. it says blue white/white blue

so is that blue cable with white on it or white cable with blue on it.

Going to work now. Will check thread when I return. Plus it seems very tight trying to push those small wires into the rj45 socket itself.

PS: my RJ45't do not have a 'load bar'...............is it crucial?
 
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Pinch all 8flat between your fingers and slide them in together.

The order for 568B from left to right (with the gold pins facing up) is, WO - O - WG - Bl - WBl - G - WBr - Br

Where WO is white core with orange flecks. O is orange core with white flecks.
 
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