How to wire up garage RCD

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Bought this http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-garage...a-rcd-dual-6a-32a-mcb/68849?_requestid=150702

Looks like this

IMG_0919_zpsd9f43708.jpg


Where does the power supply in go?

I've worked this bit out

Thisway_zps8f17e9a7.jpg


I got a 4 way bus bar to go across the bottom from what I can see.
 
Here is a quick example

supply goes into top of RCD, L for Live, N for Neutral, your earth core into the earth bar

then a example of how a circuit would go into the MCB, just follow suit after that (ofcourse you will have two cables going into the 32A breaker/bars for a ring final circuit, just put one set of cores for an example of where they go)

SlvABkk.jpg

Thank you. As I come back too read this I just found this, but the bottom of it wrong correct?

192000_191872_49204_36577153.jpg


The house is a new build, the electrical install as you can see was done by and signed off by Clarkson Evans so do not point the finger at me! All 50 homes of the same model as mine has this exact setup for the power to the garage. Other homes here are not so pretty on the install.

Original setup in the garage was radial and the tumble dryer blew that up once already.

The reason I've had quote not just for this but other stuff being high is due to the location, a 4 bed house here costs over £400K now. Every trades man that's been here, other homes around here are wacking the prices up. I get them to quote for the same job at a different house, exactly the same job it's 10 times cheaper.

I didn't have brown to use and needed it to be done there and then, it's been corrected about a week latter to conform to regs.

Thanks
 
Busbar is all you need to complete this now, it goes between the bottom "L" of the RCD, and all the MCB's at the bottom also. (See below spoiler)
60bVn0f.jpg



Where does the 2.5 come from? This needs to be your first concern IMO. It needs to be traced and find out where it comes from/what it's connected too.

If you take the front cover off the C/U and see if there's three brown cores connected into the top of the MCB that powers it, or just two. If it's two then it would indicate that there's a switch somewhere (in the kitchen?) for the garage supply, or there's a junction box behind the wall (which I wouldn't be inclined to be the case, as it's a new build). If you take the cover off and there's three brown cores in the same MCB, I would think that one of them three cores goes straight to that outside 4x4 junction box that the SWA is connected into.

I though it was like that, thanks.

As per this photo the garage feed if fed off the kitchen which is on a 32A. I have no idea where the T&E comes from kitchen wise.

http://i59.tinypic.com/2e52ix4.jpg

I'll open the box tomorrow if wanted
 

how to do a screen shot

That 6A on the far right is for the security lights outside which could be removed. This would then give me dual spacing for an isolater.

I think your right that the current feed must come off down the back. I could check the sockets for a 3rd tail which would be the feed. Only snag is to rewire a proper feed over means new slabs down the back which I think she wants doing
 
Yeah that looks all in order, as you suggest may be worth a shot looking for the third cable in the kitchen sockets, but it's entirely upto yourself, I can spend hours finding cables and then at the end of it none the wiser, it could be in a junction box behind the wall for all we know :(

So it's the 2nd 32A MCB on the right next too the RCD.

I'll check where I think it is but as for junction box it' likely to be hidden in the wall which is a no go there and then.

What's my options?
 

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So all that's left is power in.

House is 6 years old if it helps.

The garage has 2 strip lights, tumble dryer. Sometimes I'll be using power tools. Just your normal diy stuff (chop saw, bench grinder, bench sander, drill press, band saw). I'll also have a 27" screen, Intel NUC, speakers in there.

I'll see if I can find the feed. If it will work then great. When the question of repaving the back comes up maybe a cabl directly from the meter?

I wanted a smart looking setup and thought it was sensible.
 
So what should I fit exactly? Screwfix does a lot of Wylex which is cool as I get 20% off.

SWA cabl I found some 4mm 3 core on eBay. Watched a YouTube on how to strip/terminate it. Would go for the 3 core as this is what's currently fitted but also allow an earth. Will use color markings for it.
 
Run the SWA from your main CU, can likely reuse that box they used one your old one to terminate, then run 4mm t+e to cu.

In the cu, put a 32a Wylex MCB to the left of the outside lights mcb (if you have room). Connect into that.

Garage side just connect as you were going to.

The box that the current SWA runs from too the garage is on the back of the kitchen, roughly where the oven is. The CU is in the dining room which is too the the right of the back door. The SWA is fed form 2.5 T&E but where this T&E in the kitchen runs off no idea.

http://www.screwfix.com/c/electrica...ategory=cat7230022&amprating=32_a&brand=wylex

They list 3, which should it be.

I think a new SWA run with the MCB will be better. Does the cable have too be berried?
 
Thank you to all that have properly taken time to help.

I ow you a beer and more comment but I've sank a few of them so far.

I have someone that can sign it all off once he has checked it. He is not willing too take time to do it or show me how. Sometimes that line in the sand has too be drawn.

Why not try your hand at it. The cost quotes I've ben given do not touch what it's cost me for me to do it on parts along. Mark up and half.

I could wired it up by now but chose not and to listen too your advice.

Them that can only rip everything and anything someone says or does your not welcome here.
 
Prysmian LV Armoured 6493X 3-Core Cable 4mm² x 10m Black -http://www.screwfix.com/p/prysmian-lv-armoured-6493x-3-core-cable-4mm-x-10m-black/94686

Tower SWA Cable Cleats CC6 (15mm) Pack of 25 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-swa-cable-cleats-cc6-15mm-pack-of-25/45541

Tower External Gland Kit 20S IP66 Pack of 2 - http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-external-gland-kit-20s-ip66-pack-of-2/25996

Wylex 32A SP Type B MCB 6kA - http://www.screwfix.com/p/wylex-32a-sp-type-b-mcb-6ka-domestic-circuit-protection/55617

Have spoken with the boss and she's happy for the cable to be done.

I aperchate people get paid to do this job but to over charge because I live in the most expensive part of town doesn't mean I have money to burn.
 
Have a word with your friend? Tell him you will run everything in, but would like him gland off, connect and test? That won't cost much surely? They are the important bits. Will only take him 30min-1hr. No material mark up etc.

He doesn't want to do it, have already asked
 
Perhaps the quotes he is getting are of the type intended to loose a job... if presented with an outbuilding with all final circuits installed and second fixed by a DIY who is expecting the chap to fasify paperwork and say he did it...

As the OPs mate doesn't want to do it, then its no supprise that a random electrical contractor doen't want to

My mate doesn't want to do it as he's doesn't have the time to spare. He'll only be able to come and test it that's it. His wife has him on a silly short leach.

Quotes had been for both no install present and install present.

The price I had for downlights, 10 in my front room was a full joke.

Items supplied by me:
LED bulbs
Downlight
Cable
Chockblocks

Work done:
Locations marked out
LED bulbs fitted to dowlights
Holes for lights drilled

So run of cable from old ceeling rose, drop down holes and daisy chain, fit chock blocks to length of cable off light. Check, test sign off....

3 hours work max? What you think the price quoted had been?
 
Won't touch gas. It's far too risky.

Electrical it'll either work or not. Respect it and it'll respect you. Know the basics and anything more ask. Your an idiot if you don't ask.
 
It would definitely suggest a pup was second fixing - I'd say look in the CU, you may be pleasantly surprised.

We have the 2nd year apprentices 2nd fix whilst the spark does the board. He then has to open everything up and check the work, if he's not happy he pulls it all apart and reterminates everything. The lad then spends the next day stripping cable in the stores ;-)

It's not a quick method and has pushed some rewires out by a few days but they tend not to do it again - stripping 1mm with a pair of tail shears for 8 hours is no fun lol

Latter sounds like experience
 
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