I did a whoopsie...

InvaderGIR

InvaderGIR

InvaderGIR

Soldato
Joined
14 Jul 2005
Posts
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Location
Bristol
...well technically not me.

Me and some of my course mates have been having LAN parties within the uni. We borrow a trolley from the system admins in our building to take our towers from cars to the room.
My mate had a ratchet strap in the back of his van, so we used this to secure the cases to the trolley.

We didn't think to protect the cases, the rubbed and mine removed some paint off my mate's P180 :D...but that's not what matters :p. My tower was against the trolley and has some evil gouges in it...


29022008781.jpg



29022008782.jpg



...any idea how fix this? It's hard to take good photos as my phone camera's flash is nice and bright and washes the images out, those are the best shots I could get.

I'm thinking of selling the case at some point, and these will drop any price I can ask rather a lot. I mean they don't effect performance, and are almost out of the way, but none is better than some with these things. :)

If you want better pictures of them I'll try to sort something out with the amazing N73 camera.

InvG
 
Only thing you can do would be sand the entire lot down and spray it. Obviously you won't have the same look as before.

Alternatively build a time machine.
 
Darg said:
Only thing you can do would be sand the entire lot down and spray it. Obviously you won't have the same look as before.

Alternatively build a time machine.
Click to expand...

First option would make it worse...I know me, so would be even less possible to sell it.

Second option is a little expensive for me. :(

InvG
 
TBH it's probably more conveniant to find some plutonium, stick it in the back of your car and then drive at 88mph and just change your clock to the relevant year and that would save a crap load of hassle.
 
ICEx21 said:
TBH it's probably more conveniant to find some plutonium, stick it in the back of your car and then drive at 88mph and just change your clock to the relevant year and that would save a crap load of hassle.
Click to expand...

And that option would make me loose my hair. :( Especially as I currently don't have a car, so would have to put the plutonium in my shoes.

InvG
 
well if it's going to be hard to fix it properly yourself, ive worked with ally a little and its easy enough to work with its just going to be hard for you to finish to the standerd you would like.

first thing i would do is get a scalpal or someother very sharp very thin blade, remove the burr (the rough metal that has been churn'd up at either side of the gauge. be gentel its soft and will come off with the knife aslong as your patient and be carefull not to cut into the surounging ally youll see that once the burr is removed the gauge wont look as terrible, dont get me wrong it will still be there and youll still notice it but it wont look like so much carnage. getting the brush back into the ally will be the hardest feet and may be best left alone as matching an engerneard brush with a manual one... well its tricky to say the least. my tip would be to leave the gauges as are, once the burr is gone it should look more presentable , but if you still insist on repair after that this is a type of jig i made to brush ally sheet.
Untitled-13.jpg


if you decide to do it dont sand the whole panel, just make a small jig big enough to reach the gauge and make small motions over the gaug to sort that area only

hope that helps a little

EDIT*** yes yes i know.. mad paint skillz an all that but try not to focus on the art and more the message its trying to send, lol only kidding! :D
 
Wow, cool, a nice proper post. :)

I'll take the panel off (luckily it's only a side one) and see just how bad it is, along with some better photos.

It happened a few weeks ago but I just glanced at it said 'It happens' and got on with the session. My case is on the floor so it doesn't bother me, but it may bother someone if I were to flog it. :)

I also have a set of scalpels so shall test the removing of burring. :)

marcus000 said:
What case is it?
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Never can actually remember without looking at the box it came in...Lian Li B20A.

InvG
 
forgot to mention that once that is done you will have to coat the entire ally in a clear coat, ie the whole case where it is ally showing. i used car ally wheel laquer and got these results when i done it

S5030357.jpg
 
infact youll laugh it isnt as severe as yours but similer happend to me on the very same project.

S5030350.jpg


S5030351.jpg


the laquer also helps to blend in the damage giving the surface a matching gleem instead of lovely brushed ally and then a sever piece of polished like reflectivness from the gauge

S5030358.jpg
 
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Looking at my panel in good light and on my desk...the marks are 'dents' and are quite smooth to the touch. Unfortunately my phone camera is not good enough to capture this.

In fact it does seem as bad as I had first thought from glancing at it.

I think the only way to fix the panel would be to either filler it, or seriously sand down the panel as the front one is about 0.5-1mm deep.

InvG
 
Sonea Fifer said:
No its not all you'd need is the flux capacitor :p


In all honesty I'd go with k3v1n's suggestion and purchase a shiny new case :cool:
Click to expand...

I don't even have £1k, so even just the delorean is too much...but it would be cool. :D

I like that I have to get a new case just because I've scuffed this one. :p

I have it sat next to a PC-7 which contains my second system, so I still have one lovely LianLi...but it'll be a little while before I can get a new case, car is priority over PC case. Will most likely be going for a LL again, may be expensive but they are amazing cases, I will be getting one before the years is out. :D

InvG
 
Here is a slightly better shot of the front scratch.

29022008785.jpg


The PC-7 and B20A
29022008787.jpg


Swapped the left sidepanels on the cases as I wanted the air vent over the GPU, which the PC-7 has but the B20A doesn't due to having soundproofing
29022008788.jpg


B20A minus the damaged panel
29022008789.jpg


It's a very nice case, but the 80mm rear lets it down a fair bit, if it were a 120mm I'd really like it so much better than the PC-7...oh and if it were black it would totally rock! :p

InvG
 
If the PC-7 panel can be used on the B20A just buy a replaclemt PC-7 silver panel and jobs a good-un, I picked up 2 PC-60 panels up on ebay a month or so ago for about £12 posted.

I could name a few places that would probably be able to source you one but i'd get shot for doing so.
Just e-mail a few of the shops that sell Lian Li cases :)
 
infact, you could probably just pickup a replacement panel from lian li, or somewhere that stocks it at least...
 
The panels do fix, which just goes to show that this case is basically just a PC-7 with door and removable mobo tray.

This is true I never really thought of getting a PC-7 one, only about getting a B20A one. But that does mean I have to spend money to make money. :p

Would want to buy soundproofing too, just so that when selling it's effectively the same as a normal B20A. :)

Done a little googling...I suck at finding these things. :( I'll drop LL an email and see what they say. :)

InvG
 
Not sure how you go about repairing the panel but a word of warning,

I had 3 PCs on a trolly at work once, pushed it from my van to the building, set them all up, and broke all 3 hard drives.:D

The vibrations from the surface of the pavement must have damaged the drives, as they were all working prior to taking them to the new site.
 
Ouch.

Well mine's survived 2 trolley trips, and about 10 130mile trips in the car, even down really bumpy roads. :) Admittedly in the car the PCs are boxed up and on the trolley they are not...but I think HDD safety is down to great HHDs. :p

Last time we couldn't get a trolley so had to carry the sodding things around uni...which proved amusing when my mate pulled up to the back doors of uni in his white van...security were not amused. :D

InvG
 
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