I want an EP3

Gambisk

Gambisk

Gambisk

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I'm going to look at a few EP3's over the next few days. I've two cars lined up one from 2001 with 64k on the clock and the other from 2003 with 86k on the clock. They both have pretty full service histories but not 100%, the 2003 is about £1000 more expensive as well.

Am I mad buying a 13/15 year old car? And what should I look out for when I'm test driving them?
 
Full service history is imperative with these IMO (I had one)

Make sure it's had a clutch change as both are the bang on mileage/age for likely needing replacement (not slipping but the spring) - manifested by hard changes @ +6k rpm in my case.

Check for oil leaks and the vtec kicks in as should

Finally accident damage given the nature of the car, I ruled out all recorded cars.

Also check the MOT history site (free online) to see if there are any other upcoming issues flagged/general standard of upkeep.
 
I currently run a 2003 Satin Silver EP3 which now has 123,500 miles on it. They are fairly bomb proof and mine doesn't tend to throw up many bills given its age so I wouldn't say you are mad for considering it (maybe I am a bit biased though :P)

In 3 years of ownership the only things I can think of that I've had to fix outside of normal consumables and servicing costs is a new set of drop links all around and very recently the exhaust back box needed one of the mounting arms welding back on.

With the mileages you have specified I'd recommend making sure they have been serviced on time and had oil topped up inbetween services where necessary as they are known to drink oil (might need to ask some inquisitive questions to the owner to extract this). Also ask them to go for a test run and if they nail it to 8500 revs from cold it might be one to avoid..

Have a read of this thread for some more in depth things to look for:
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/s...ing-guide-check-list-for-the-EP3-Civic-Type-R

Edit: Above reply reminded me I had to change the original clutch at the start of this year on 122,000 miles. Obviously how long the original clutch will last varies wildly so it's a good idea to take it into account as mentioned.
 
Your unlikely to get serious issues as long as it has been looked after. A lot have been crashed and repaired though so need inspecting properly.
 
Mine has 135k miles on it now, and it's been extremely reliable. The only significant expensive I have had was for a set of engine mounts as the originals were getting very tired, and they were very expensive compared to anything I've previously owned (around £400 for a set IIRC).

I had to overhaul the rear brakes earlier this year as the handbrake became completely useless. With new calipers, pads and disks it's now improved to the point of being mostly useless...don't ever expect a good handbrake on them.

Changing the clutch on these is a horrible job, which is reflected in high labour charges so make sure it's been done. As said they don't start slipping when worn, they start dragging which makes gear changes stiff and is very hard on the synchromesh. I changed my clutch when I first bought the car with about 89k miles on it. It wasn't badly worn at all, but the gear change was noticeably stiff and a new clutch transformed the feel.

I have a timing chain and tensioners that I need to fit as well. The timing chain on these engines can stretch to the point of throwing a fault code and depending on servicing a new chain may be needed at around 100k. Mine is just starting to sound a slightly rattly when cold, but no fault codes.
 
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Had mine coming up 4 years.

2003 steadily approaching 110,000 miles. I only do about 3-4000 a year.

Only thing I've replaced on mine is the clutch (£250 fitted), a rear caliper (£150 fitted I think) and an O2 Sensor (£80 fitted).

It's always been serviced on time and topped up with oil.

Most reliable car I've owned.
 
When treated right, the EP3 will last you a long time. If abused, it'll still last longer than some other cars. But not as long, the clean ones with FSH do cost a bit though!
 
Personally I would try get hold of a facelift version. Cracking cars with great reliability when serviced properly and maintained. They also respond well to breather mods and a good map.
 
I loved mine, had no issues really bar a window regulator failing which was quite expensive to fix. If you follow the guide linked, you'll be fine, I wrote that quite some time ago!
 
Thanks for all the help guys, I viewed car number one last night and cosmetically it has some car park scrapes and a bit of lacquer peeling on the front bumper just bellow the grill, the roof is also a bit faded (seems common on red cars). But mechanically it felt very strong and whats more has a full service history and a new clutch with only 10,000 miles on it. It's 2001 so before the face lift which is OK but would prefer the updated shape but I can live with it as I don't buy cars for the image.

I'll be viewing a 2003 car tonight, but I susspect it wont be able to justify the extra £1000 over the car I saw last night, if thats the case I'll be picking up the 2001 car Friday night. :)
 
My 03 is still going strong, it's still a quick car. Described by a Honda rep the other week as "A tidy example" :)
(Only just done 60K)
 
Proof of oil&filter changes is vital.

Whilst it's a different car, I've had my DC2 for 7 years now. No plans to let it go :)
 
peterattheboro said:
Had mine coming up 4 years.

2003 steadily approaching 110,000 miles. I only do about 3-4000 a year.

Only thing I've replaced on mine is the clutch (£250 fitted), a rear caliper (£150 fitted I think) and an O2 Sensor (£80 fitted).

It's always been serviced on time and topped up with oil.

Most reliable car I've owned.
Click to expand...

That's really good for 4 years ownership on a 10+ year old car.
 
Facelift version has a lot of tiny mechanical changes compared to pre-facelift - This is really why people think they can charge more but some of the changes were for the better.

Lighter flywheel usually being the biggest and they feel a tiny bit torquer than the pre-facelifts - But I despise the rear lights on my facelift pre-face looks miles better.

As above check for history, Check around arches and body for any bad rust, If you go out driving the car or if the seller does make sure they are not afraid to hit Vtec when car is warmed up properly - If they don't and or refuse they could be hiding some issues from you and you should walk away without a second thought.

All around great car and very quick for a good blast when you feel like it - I have a daily so only really drive mines once a week rest of time I am polishing it.

If you manage to find a premier edition you will get the fancy Recaro seats etc as well but last I checked they were still stupid money.
 
I collected the car last night, here are a few quick photos that I took when I collected her.

JEJryGi.jpg

PvojMUT.jpg


It has 61,000 miles on the clock and comes with a full service history.

Initial thoughts:
- Puts a massive smile on my face every time I press the accelerator, the noise and speed is very addictive.
- Handling is very good and ride quality are much better than expected on the lowered springs.
- The exhaust sounds epic when booting it but could potentially become a little tiresome every day, I'll live with it for a while and see how it goes.
- The whale tail is ridiculous and needs to go, I've ordered a OEM spoiler from a breakers and will be fitting ASAP
- Will be changing oil and filters shortly for my own peace of mind log book shows they were last done 6000 miles ago, but there is no date stamp.
- Front tyres are mismatched but I haven't noticed any detrimental effect so far, might live with it for now and replace them after my holidays.
- The paint is a little scratched and faded in places, nothing that wont polish out, I'll be sprucing it up the next dry Saturday we get.
- The interior is filthy, last owner was a farmer so its full of mud and agricultural smells, trying to get a full valet and shampoo sorted out this week.

So there is a bit of superficial things that need tidied up and can be tackled a bit at a time, mechanically the car is in great shape and is a hoot to drive. I'll try and keep this thread updated as I go. Thanks for the buying advice it really helped to know what potential issues to look for.
 
Looks nice mate and it actually still looks red :)

Agreed on the Mugen spoiler I use to like them until I actually bought one - Sold it not long after fitting they look utter gash.

Get some decent tires on it, uprated anti roll bars (DC5 ones will fit), Front rear arm castor bushes and a fast road set up - You will be loving it.

If you want some nice noise from the front in VTEC get an uprated intake and ditch the standard air-box.

I have the HKS intake and HKS high power exhaust system and it sounds perfect not to loud unless your going for it.

Looks awesome though always good to see another EP3.
 
Gambisk said:
- The paint is a little scratched and faded in places, nothing that wont polish out, I'll be sprucing it up the next dry Saturday we get.
Click to expand...

You probably won't have much luck restoring faded milano red. The red pigments fade under the lacquer so machine polishing it won't help. Fortunately from your pictures it still looks red, not pink like some of them.

Oh, and don't crash it! You'll never get a good paint match without getting a full respray. Don't ask me how I know.........
 
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