Installation of bathroom extractor fan.

Soldato
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Hi,

Just looking for any folks who may have some experience of the thread topic so that I know what to ask/check for before getting quotes.

Family house's small bathroom really steams up after showers and creates a lot of condensation which is causing shelves go get mouldy and make them start rotting. Opening the only window is not practical for privacy issues.

Reading around, I gather it may be possible to install a ceiling extractor fan (55 m3/hr min. I think) which would involve putting ducting to outside via the loft. It would also involve some electrical work.

Am I correct in assuming that the electrical work would require someone qualified to carry out? How about the fan/duct installation; would that need a qualified plumber? Anyone know of costs involved?
 
No need for a plumber

You dont have to get a lecy to do it you can just pay them to inspect it and "sign it off"

Are you looking for a simple in the wall or a ceiling then out through the roof?
 
My electrician put our in the ceiling so that it vents into the roof space, works very well and was an easy install.
 
Well, I think that's what I am trying to narrow down - easiest/least disturbance/cheapest option. I haven't been to check the loft setup yet, or asked some of the civils/services guys at work who may know a bit more yet but to me installing on the wall with outside on the other side means hole in masonry, so very unlikely. (I think our old place did have one like that already installed). I can't install on wall by the bath as this connects to the neighbour's (semi-detached). That leaves a partition wall opposite the bath (so not ideal) or ceiling right above shower/bath, above which the loft should have space.

Bathroom is only about 2.2 x 2.2 x 2.7 m roughly.
 
My electrician put our in the ceiling so that it vents into the roof space, works very well and was an easy install.

Venting into the roof space? I though they needed an insulated duct to take the condensed vapour/water droplets to drip outside. Wouldn't your setup just take the condensation to the roof?
 
You really want it venting directly outside (out through tiles/roof or side wall), otherwise you risk getting damp inside the roof.
 
If the attic is directly above, IIRC you should run the ducting in to the attic, then out down the edge of the roof so it ventilates out the side of the house (but protected by the roof) - bad explanation i know.

Electronics wise, its extremely simple. Our last one burnt out and i replaced it in about 30 mins. Just make sure you turn off the power to the ring your working on :p
 
If the attic is directly above, IIRC you should run the ducting in to the attic, then out down the edge of the roof so it ventilates out the side of the house (but protected by the roof) - bad explanation i know.

Vented duct exiting via the soffits
 
If your going to do it please use an in-line fan or a LV fan as it can be very dangerous to install a 230v fan above a shower/bath.
 
Won't cost much ,I had a plumber fit one in my bedroom which included fitting a stone shower tray ,waste pipe and plumbing in a power shower for about £150 so on its own maybe about £40 if you supply the extractor !
 
If your going to do it please use an in-line fan or a LV fan as it can be very dangerous to install a 230v fan above a shower/bath.

Depends on where the fan is, which zone etc.

Fans can be had as cheap as £11 from places like screwfix etc, easy peasy to do.

A tip for you tho, after a shower/bath, leave the door open for 10-20 mins, this lets the moisture out, it made a massive difference to my old bathroom, much more so than the extractor fan.
 
If you cant open the window due to privacy then wouldnt a cheaper option then a fan simply be to put a curtain that you cant see through on the inside of the window, that way you can open the window slightly, letting out steam, and still have privacy.
 
If your going to do it please use an in-line fan or a LV fan as it can be very dangerous to install a 230v fan above a shower/bath.

Any particular reason why? Is it the possibility of condensation in the electrics?

We do have a curtain so that the window can be open a bit, but it's not enough. Neither is leaving open the door/window after - still droplets running down the tile walls.
 
Any particular reason why? Is it the possibility of condensation in the electrics?

We do have a curtain so that the window can be open a bit, but it's not enough. Neither is leaving open the door/window after - still droplets running down the tile walls.

The type of fan you can fit all depends on location there are lots of funny rules about having electrical items within reach of the wet areas in a bathroom ie bath, shower and sink. I have seen electricians moan about metal light fittings on a cieling you couldn't reach standing on a chair being dangerous so I suppose a lot depends on the individuals interpretation!

Make 100% sure that the van vents out side and not into the roof space, pouring tons of hot damp air into you roof space will quite quickly start to rot the wood work and roofing work can be pricey ;)

The law now make any electrical work in a bathroom part P notifiable to building control so if you want to do it yourself technically you have to inform the council who will then send round a qualified elctrician to look at it and say its ok (at your cost) if you get an electrician who is a member of one of the two approved schemes (like corgi but not as stupidly annoyinh) then they can self certify the work meaning no need for the council.
 
they can self certify the work meaning no need for the council.

I'm an NICEIC registered electrician we notify the niceic on line (at a cost)about the work we have done and they notify the council.

You need to keep the fan out of zones 1 and 2 if wall mounted. My advise is to fit an inline fan with local isolator in loft and duct out through soffit.

The only problem to this you will need your lights on to start fan then when its switched off fan runs on for pre selected time. Otherwise you will need to install external switch, pullcord or humidistat.
 
I used to have an uncle with a farm where we used to go as kids. He had a bloody tractor (like farmers do) and he ran me over with it one summer, by accident.

It may 'ave been an accident but i'm still an ex-tractor fan now! Ha ha ha!!
 
Smack on and beat me to it

I'm an NICEIC registered electrician we notify the niceic on line (at a cost)about the work we have done and they notify the council.

You need to keep the fan out of zones 1 and 2 if wall mounted. My advise is to fit an inline fan with local isolator in loft and duct out through soffit.

The only problem to this you will need your lights on to start fan then when its switched off fan runs on for pre selected time. Otherwise you will need to install external switch, pullcord or humidistat.
 
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